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Setec Astronomy
03-09-2015, 10:04 AM
I notice there are a couple of brands that have come out with a black clay for heavy contaminants.

Since the normal practice is to turn to a clean surface or knead the clay when it becomes dirty--how are you supposed to tell when it's dirty when it's black?

Since perhaps one of the worst contaminants to get stuck in the clay (as far as marring) is tar, I would think it would be almost impossible to see if you had a chunk of tar stuck in a chunk of black clay. Similarly, how can you tell when the clay is spent and it's time to discard it if you can't see the color change as it picks up contaminants and gets dirty?

How is this supposed to work? I find it hard to believe that whatever ingredients in this clay that make it heavy-duty also make it black, so I'm trying to understand the logic in making it this color.

PS I realize one of the likely answers is going to be "use a clay substitute and just wash it off after each panel", yes, I know that's a good solution, I'm just trying to understand the black clay concept.

KMdef9
03-09-2015, 12:11 PM
I notice there are a couple of brands that have come out with a black clay for heavy contaminants.

Since the normal practice is to turn to a clean surface or knead the clay when it becomes dirty--how are you supposed to tell when it's dirty when it's black?

Since perhaps one of the worst contaminants to get stuck in the clay (as far as marring) is tar, I would think it would be almost impossible to see if you had a chunk of tar stuck in a chunk of black clay. Similarly, how can you tell when the clay is spent and it's time to discard it if you can't see the color change as it picks up contaminants and gets dirty?

How is this supposed to work? I find it hard to believe that whatever ingredients in this clay that make it heavy-duty also make it black, so I'm trying to understand the logic in making it this color.

PS I realize one of the likely answers is going to be "use a clay substitute and just wash it off after each panel", yes, I know that's a good solution, I'm just trying to understand the black clay concept.

I agree completely. The only thing I can think of, is maybe the manufacturer is assuming your going to polish afterwards, as with an aggressive clay, your much more likely to mar the paint. And this "black" version is a way of getting things done faster (in situations you need clay and can't use a towel or DA pad). Even still, if you pick up something pretty nasty in the clay, you could do some serious damage. Maybe it's a very "situational" product.


What brands are doing this? I hope it isn't one I respect, lol.

Audios S6
03-09-2015, 12:57 PM
Perhaps one option would be to stretch the clay, I'm guessing that it will turn a lighter gray or white as it stretches and you may be able to see the contaminants better. I do not endorse this idea as good practice, but it may work. On the flip side, I normally expect heavy duty clay to be pretty stiff and it may not stretch well.

Something to consider: If you are in need of super heavy duty clay, should you be concerned about marring? I would expect the car to already be in terrible condition in which case marring isn't going to be a serious issue. The clay itself is likely going to do some pretty bad marring without consideration of contaminants. This may be a case where you should already be planning to polish at a minimum.

For the record, I agree completely with you and I won't be purchasing any black clay as the issue still remains, how to determine when it's spent.

SYMAWD
03-09-2015, 01:08 PM
I agree completely. The only thing I can think of, is maybe the manufacturer is assuming your going to polish afterwards, as with an aggressive clay, your much more likely to mar the paint. And this "black" version is a way of getting things done faster (in situations you need clay and can't use a towel or DA pad). Even still, if you pick up something pretty nasty in the clay, you could do some serious damage. Maybe it's a very "situational" product.


What brands are doing this? I hope it isn't one I respect, lol.
Chemical Guys in one that I know of.

FUNX650
03-09-2015, 01:18 PM
Chemical Guys in one that I know of.
Here's another one:
Optimum Opti-Clay - Firm Black, aggressive detailing clay (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-clay-firm-black.html)

Bob

FUNX650
03-09-2015, 02:02 PM
I notice there are a couple of brands that have come out with a black clay for heavy contaminants.

Since the normal practice is to turn to a clean surface or knead the clay when it becomes dirty--how are you supposed to tell when it's dirty when it's black?

Since perhaps one of the worst contaminants to get stuck in the clay (as far as marring) is tar, I would think it would be almost impossible to see if you had a chunk of tar stuck in a chunk of black clay. Similarly, how can you tell when the clay is spent and it's time to discard it if you can't see the color change as it picks up contaminants and gets dirty?

How is this supposed to work? I find it hard to believe that whatever ingredients in this clay that make it heavy-duty also make it black, so I'm trying to understand the logic in making it this color.

PS I realize one of the likely answers is going to be "use a clay substitute and just wash it off after each panel", yes, I know that's a good solution, I'm just trying to understand the black clay concept.
Who knows...
The below AGO forum member may be one source for finding out the back-story to at least one of the "black clays":


...Dr. G, like i said - being in the US and very accessible is the icing on the cake. it doesn't hurt that the guy is just a flat out good dude. i've met him many, many times and am impressed.

Kamakaz1961
03-09-2015, 03:32 PM
Setec Astronomy I am in your camp on this one. No black clay for me at all!