My new project needs help

CNC Mike

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I'm new over here, just posted in the intro section. I'll say I have a few hundred dollars in adams products that i've been using but i don't have any serious detailing equipment. I recently bought this truck that looked great when i got it but after some weeks it turned to what i have now covered in hologram swirls. I watched prob hours of videos, read lots of different things on this site and others. I was going to purchase the porter cable da with the wolfgang total swirl remover but i really have no clue if thats the right way to go and hence the reason why im here! before i do the paint correction i will be removing the door molding, 4x4 stickers, chevrolet, silverado, LS badges, and the plastic bed liner thats lifting cracking and looks like crap. Sooo i want to bring the paint back to looking good! I want to polish the foggy headlights. Id appreciate any help you can give.


Thanks,
Mike
 
Always start with a least agressive product/pad first and move up from there. As a beginner I bought a GG6 da and love it, technique is more important than xpensive equipment
 
Every video I've watched shows them doing a big flat panel like a hood. I think I'm okay with doing that but I feel like this thing has a lot of small edges. How should theybe done? Any video I should look at for that? What I'm talking about is the body line that iindents, the flairs, the parts leading up to the window trim. I'm thinking the window trim needs taped off right?
 
The obvious holograms in that photo are very easily removed. I actually enjoy tackling holo's when i see them because they are some of the finest, shallow imperfections to correct. From your initial post i will assume you don't have a machine yet, correct? If so, get a random orbital buffer (PC is fine), an assortment of pads...orange, white and black and some polishing products. Wolfgang is phenomenal stuff and the Total Swirl Remover might be perfect on that GM paint. Do a test spot trying a couple or few different combos and see what looks best to YOUR eyes.

I never worry about any "character" enhancements in panels i.e. ridges, creases, indentaions in the panel especially with a PC. As long as i'm comfortable with the least aggressive approach being used you'll be fine. Being mindful that the paint is the thinnest in those areas you don't want to dwell on them for any prolonged period of time...keep moving over them. And yes, tape up moldings, window transitions etc.
 
Every video I've watched shows them doing a big flat panel like a hood.

I think I'm okay with doing that but I feel like this thing has a lot of small edges. How should theybe done?

I hate assuming, just leads to mistakes, that said, I'm assuming you're new to machine polishing?

What you'll find out as you start to put some hours behind the polisher is how to buff out thin panels, tight areas and curves. Sometimes you can't get them as well as flat easy to buff panels without getting smaller pads and a smaller backing plate to put on your Porter Cable, or Griot's, whichever tool you decide to go with.

Practice makes perfect.


As for the videos showing how to work on a hood, the reason for this is to show technique and a flat surface like a hood works best for showing technique. You just use that technique for all the rest of the panels.





Any video I should look at for that?

What I'm talking about is the body line that iindents, the flairs, the parts leading up to the window trim. I'm thinking the window trim needs taped off right?


Here's a video here that might help...

Video: How to buff tight areas plus concave and convex curved panels by machine



:buffing:
 
Advanced pinnacle compound advance polish with the right pads top it off with some collinite good to go just keep you're process simple no polish alone is not gonna correct that it will just fill then it will reveal itself after one wash get luck
 
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