Review: Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro

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Mike Phillips

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Review: Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro



Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro

Marine_31_Vessel_Coat_000.JPG




What is it?

Nano ceramic coating specifically formulated for gelcoat surfaces.


What does it do?

Seals the surface with a high solids concentration of nano sized silicon dioxide or SiO2.


When do I use it?

For both new and older boats, first perform any gelcoat correction and/or polishing work to perfect the gelcoat surface and after using the Marine 31 Prep Spray to remove any residual polishing oils.


Why should I use it?

Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro out lasts and out protects conventional boat waxes and sealants. Makes washing and drying faster and easier in the future.




From the manufacturer


Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro

Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro is designed to create extreme hydrophobicity, allowing for a slick finish. Formulated to work with gel coat surfaces, clear coat, plastic and meals, Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro can be used for a variety of different surfaces, including those in direct sunlight. Plus, Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro is easy-to-apply with a slow flash time so that you can have a larger working area.


DIRECTIONS

  • For best results, ensure surface is clear of oxidation, swirls, and scratches.
  • Compound and polish gel coat if necessary.
  • Use Marine 31 Gel Coat Prep Spray to remove any remaining polishing oils.
  • Using a microfiber applicator, apply Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro to the surface in a back and forth, crosshatch pattern.
  • When flashing has occurred, you are clear to wipe away excess product.
  • Repeat around entirety of vessel.
  • Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro can be layered, with 3 coats being ideal.
  • Allow at least 1 hour between layers. Coating cures in approximately 24-48 hours with full coating effectiveness being achieved at 1 week.


Testing the coating and prepping for a boat detailing class

So the timing for the launch of this product came the week before my big 2-day boat detailing class. I was fortunate to have 2 extremely oxidized center console boats in the garage. Because these boats are for hands-on training purposes - I'm only going to do a Test Spot on each boat to dial-in the process for the class to duplicate. As such, I only used this brand new coating on two sections.

That said, these two sections I corrected and coated were more than enough real-estate for me to use the product and get a feel for it's application characteristic as well as final results.


Here's the Conch27 in the condition it arrived in. To the untrained eye - she looks pretty sweet!


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Still looks good from this angle... and there's Yancy getting some video of the before condition.

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And from this far shot - most people would think this boat is in good, even great condition.

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But to really get a feel for just how badly the gelcoat on this boat has oxidized - you need the right perspective.

From this close with some light on the side of the hull - do you see it?

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This boat is severely oxidized. With some good lighting you can see where the dark blue gelcoat has actually turned white.


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Now you can really see the true condition...

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Here's the tools, products and pads I'll use for my Test Spot and if it works wonders - this will also be the process the class will use over the entire boat.

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And here's the results after removing the oxidation, polishing the gelcoat to a high gloss and then sealing the gelcoat with the NEW Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro


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Day and Night Difference

You can easily see the deep, dark richness of the original factory dark blue color for the Conch27

2021_Boat_Class_0006.JPG





Video Review






Written Review

This new coating is easy to use. And the time to use it is when your boat is brand spanking new. Why? Because when a boat is brand new the gelcoat finish is in perfect condition. There's no hard work to do, simply do a light polishing to ensure the gelcoat surface is absolutely clean and free from any previously applied waxes or even spray detailers, (from the boat dealership or the boat factory), then use the Marine 31 Prep Spray to remove any polishing oils and next - install the Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro.

And here's the good news! This Marine 31 ceramic coating will far outlast any conventional boat wax or sealant. But the time to coat your boat is when it's brand new. If you have an older boat, you can still get the long lasting protection and hydrophobic characteristics from the Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro - BUT... like I did in my Test Spot - you'll have to first perform any gelcoat correction work to remove the oxidation and other surface defects.



Application

The coating itself, like most coatings is a thin, clear liquid, like a fine, highly spun oil. After first priming your applicator pad the coating glides over the surface with ease. There's no stickiness to it and because of the extended flash time or evaporation rate, you have plenty of time to tackle a large section making a crosshatch pattern. While the marketing copy states you can tackle up to a 6' by 6' section at one time with a waiting time of 4-5 minutes (flash time), before you need to start leveling the coating and wiping off the excess, I prefer to work smaller areas, about 2' x 2' just because it's a lot easier to manage a smaller section and do a GREAT job of applying and removing the coating than to tackle a really large size, (and 6' x 6' is a LARGE size), and risk doing less than stellar work. This type of marine detailing project is intense and it's really something you need to get right the first time.


Wipe-off

If you're brand new to marine coatings and even automotive coatings for that matter - in case you didn't know, the wiping off aspect of installing a coating is also part of the installing process.

Say what?

That's right. When you wipe the treated area with a clean, microfiber towel, "yes" you are removing the excess but in the process you're also PUSHING the excess over the surface and this has a LEVELING effect, which ensures uniform coverage over the entire section just coated. The wipe-off aspect is just as important as the installation step because you're creating a uniform layer of protection and also visual perfection. The good news is due to the long flash time, evening out the coating and wiping off any last remaining coating residues is a breeze. And the results? A totally clear, high gloss, slick surface that looks better than new. AND - these results will last far longer than the alternatives to a ceramic boat coating, conventional marine waxes and sealants.



How long will the Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro last?

The company says this coating will easily last up to one year but that's as far as they want to claim because there's too many factors that affect how long ANYTHING lasts in the marine environment. For example a salt water environment is a lot more harsh and corrosive than a fresh water environment. Length of time in the water is also a factor. The coating on a boat that is stored in a Boat Barn or on a lift when not in use will easily last longer than the coating on a boat left in the water 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. A good one year of protection is still much longer than a conventional boat wax or sealant no matter how you look at it. And... if you do remove your boat from the water when not in use and wash her down after each boating trip, you could get up to 2 years of protection before you have to re-apply.



New Boats
If you have a brand new boat - NOW is the time to use Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro - while the boat is still in factory new condition exposure to the water, sun and the elements take their tool and cause oxidation.


Older boats
If you have an older boat that you plan on detailing to bring back the shine, then after all the hard work is done, switch over to a ceramic coating to maximize the results from all your hard work.


Nothing wrong with conventional boat waxes and sealants, they are easier to work with than coatings but the lack the longevity of the Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro. Plus because the Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro last longer and creates a super hydrophobic surface that repels dirt, grime and water - your boat will stay cleaner longer and be much faster and also easier to wash and dry after a day of boating fun.



On Autogeek.com


Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro


:)
 
Continued....


Here's a brief overview of the new Marine 31 Vessel Coat UV Pro and the step to install it to your boat.





:)
 
Mike, how would you say this compares to the Gyeon marine coating? I’ve used it and was impressed with it.
 
Hey Mike, I actually have a question in regards to the sand paper I see on your work table. Did you sand that finish prior to polishing? Reason I ask is because I have a badly oxidized boat to work on the end of this month. My plan was to hit it with twisted wool on my PE14 and polish with my 3401. However I have a buddy in South Carolina that says he would sand it first because the oxidation most likely will return quickly if I just compound and polish. Any input is appreciated.
 
Hey Mike, I actually have a question in regards to the sand paper I see on your work table. Did you sand that finish prior to polishing? Reason I ask is because I have a badly oxidized boat to work on the end of this month. My plan was to hit it with twisted wool on my PE14 and polish with my 3401. However I have a buddy in South Carolina that says he would sand it first because the oxidation most likely will return quickly if I just compound and polish. Any input is appreciated.

That sand paper is Mirka Abralon and it has about 3/8” of soft foam under the abrasive. It works really well for high grit sandpaper as I use it with woodworking with high gloss lacquer finishes. It is one of the best sandpapers you can get and probably why Mike is using it. Highly recommend it. I also use it when doing headlight correction, bought 1000 to 4000 6” discs. Just need to get a 2” punch to use with the Flex PXE80. Right now I just fold them in half and use them by hand on the headlights.

But yes, just like wet sanding, you use the coarser sandpaper to remove the oxidized coating. Then you use subsequent higher grit levels of sandpaper to remove the lower grit sanding marks. Once you finish with 4,000 grit, it is ready for polishing. If you stopped at a lower grit, you’d have to compound the sanding marks out and then polish so you really do need to get up to 4,000 grit so the polish can take over. And sandpaper is usually faster than polishing/compounding. One other tip to make sure you get out each grits sanding marks, spend slightly more time sanding as you go up in grit, say 1 min(?) more per section. This will ensure all of the coarser sanding marks are removed by the higher grits.
 
Hey Mike, I actually have a question in regards to the sand paper I see on your work table.

Did you sand that finish prior to polishing?

Yes.

This is standard protocol for restoring neglected gelcoat - for me at least.

When restoring severely neglected gelcoat where the oxidation goes DEEP into the pores - you have two choices,


1: Push hard with a rotary buffer for HOURS and do crap for work.

2: Machine sand - DON'T push hard for hours. Machine sanding if you know what you're doing - does the same thing chopping does with a rotary buffer only it's EASIER on you and it does a much better job.



Of course - I teach all the deep things of this concept and process in my classes. There's more to know than the simple things I typed above.




Reason I ask is because I have a badly oxidized boat to work on the end of this month. My plan was to hit it with twisted wool on my PE14 and polish with my 3401. However I have a buddy in South Carolina that says he would sand it first because the oxidation most likely will return quickly if I just compound and polish.

Any input is appreciated.


Based on my own real-world experience, I agree with your buddy.



The problem with trying to carve off all the dead oxidized gelcoat is when you start out - you're working pretty good. But after about an hour - you're muscle-fatigued and now you're not working so good.

Another problem is the compound you're using will darken the oxidized gelcoat - so after you get tired - the results still look good - BUT - they are not good. You finish the boat and in a month or two - boat looks like crap again.

Plus - with most boats, the hull is v-shaped, at least to some degree. This means as you run the buffer DOWN the hull, it goes away from you. This type of buffing is super hard. It's hard enough to buff a vertical surface, but one that goes away from you?


I can go deeper, but this is why I teach this stuff in a class on real boats. And I get tired of all the detailing experts on FB/TY/IG that when someone asks about taking classes they seem to always say,

Just watch some videos


:laughing: They obviously have never been to a real class.


Yep... Facebook, YouTube and Instagram Experts. They're great. :props:


:cheers:
 
Mike, how would you say this compares to the Gyeon marine coating?

I’ve used it and was impressed with it.


Plain and simple - GYEON makes great stuff. I've shown the GYEON Q2 Marine Coating the two previous year for my classes and it works great.


Now how long GYEON's marine coating, this new coating or any brand of marine coating lasts - there's too many factors to really have a solid, blanket-statement.


Here's what I say, pick an established brand and go with it.


I do know this new coating we just introduced is bullet-proof. Plus you can layer it up to 3 coats and if I were doing all the work it requires to get a boat ready for the coating - I would be installing all 3 coats.


:buffing:
 
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Mike, this is the boat I was referring to. My friend bought it about a year ago and asked if I could get some shine outta this. Guess I’ll be stocking up on sanding discs!


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
I just got my bottle delivered today. I'm lining up the first victim today. :)
 
much improved over the original coating Marine 31 offered...much easier to apply and take off...

I really like it

Yeah the first version was hard to work with, this newest version is the real deal.


Here's the picture of your boat. I downloaded it, rotated it 90 degrees to the right and then uploaded it to your free gallery here on AGO


vesselcoatedboat.jpg



:)
 
Looks great! How does this perform below/at the waterline? My main goal is creating protection at the waterline, defense against the scum line which is especially nasty this time of year at my lake. Thanks!
 
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