What am I doing wrong :( Holograms after using a rotary buffer

What shape were the cars in to begin with? Did you have to do a lot of correction work and that's why you use a rotary and cutting pads?
 
freddie46 said:
What shape were the cars in to begin with? Did you have to do a lot of correction work and that's why you use a rotary and cutting pads?
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The car is a 08 Benz. The paint is in good condition
 
I was talking to Michael Stoops and was telling him my Hologram experience. How I always finished hologram free at the body shop I worked for, except on black paint. I explained how it was always a nightmare working on black paint.

He then said maybe the other color paints I worked on did have the holograms but I just couldn't see it.

So it got me thinking that this might be true...

I also learned that body shops. The one my estimator uncle works at in this case. Well his body shop is starting to use a DA for the final step. To avoid holograms. So maybe body shops are starting to catch on?
 
I do encounter the same problem of the hologram when I polished my car with Rupes DA. What caused this problem? Am I putting to much downward pressure on it or I need to spray some water in the pad before using it to work on the paint?
Hope some expert could teach me the technique. Many thanks!
 
Andrew_517 said:
I do encounter the same problem of the hologram when I polished my car with Rupes DA. What caused this problem? Am I putting to much downward pressure on it or I need to spray some water in the pad before using it to work on the paint?
Hope some expert could teach me the technique. Many thanks!
Click to expand...

Try slower arm speed first

2" per second

Sometimes that change alone will fix alot of issues
 
I would humbly suggest you add some mf rotary pads from LC, the ones with thicker foam. Or meguiar's mf, with the foam interface. I also think the speed should be below 1000 rpm. In heavily swirled black cars, with medium to hard paints, I use the rotary to cut, starting with 600 rpm, two to four passes, then 900 rpm, 2 passes, then back to 600 rpm, 2 passes. I use menz fg 400 to cut it. But you have to be a gentleman on pressure and pay attention to what you are doing it, because it is very abrasive. And always a DA to finish it, usually with the menz 3000 and 4000. I use the Flex 3401 after the rotary step. You also can use the Menz 4500 with black foam to jewell it.
I hardly go over 1000 rpm on a rotary, because I always end up with more swirls to correct later.
I delivered a car friday, heavily oxidized, so heavy it was opaque, that I cut it for the first time with Menz 300. This product indeed is a beast, but as Mike "Smack" stated in his post, it leaves a hazier look than the 400. But it cuts more, and the hazy look is easily corrected in the next DA polishing step. I used the PE14 with lc rotary mf, because in the spot test I made no foam was cutting the paint the way I wanted. But I have to confess tha menz 300 with pe14 with mf is walking on thin ice, I was sweating with fear of burning a hole to the CC. Best regards.
 
From what i'm reading it seems there are many tricky you can try to avoid them, but imo (i do not use a rotary) it just seems the easier way to go would be to use a DA polisher on your last or second to last step and you will pretty much guarantee a hologram free finish. that sounds like a safer bet to me. If it was my car, I hired you and I was "in the know" so to say, I would kindly ask that you finish it out with a DA polisher.

before you buy a porter cable I suggest you take a serious look at the griots garage GG6 polisher instead. The porter cable vibrates a lot and is pretty hard on your hands. the GG6 is a bit more user friendly in that sense. just about everyone who has used both agrees. oh yeah, you also get a lifetime warranty with the griots machine and griots garage is EXCELLENT with taking care of any problem with the machine. If you buy it from Autogeek you can do your warranty directly through them (atleast thats how it worked for me in the past).
 
hernandez.art13 said:
I was talking to Michael Stoops and was telling him my Hologram experience. How I always finished hologram free at the body shop I worked for, except on black paint. I explained how it was always a nightmare working on black paint.

He then said maybe the other color paints I worked on did have the holograms but I just couldn't see it.

So it got me thinking that this might be true...

I also learned that body shops. The one my estimator uncle works at in this case. Well his body shop is starting to use a DA for the final step. To avoid holograms. So maybe body shops are starting to catch on?
Click to expand...

If your getting holograms on black paint, you are most likely also getting them on white , silver and all light colors as well. its just more difficult to see. but if your looking for them you will find them in the correct angle and natural sunlight.
 
You can try using M105 with meguiar's yellow pad with mikita speed 2500rpm to remove holograms hope it help
 
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