Ceriglass Problem - What's the secret?

Setec Astronomy said:
So just to recap, the LC glass pads are caca, the CarPro glass pads are great, and the Griot's glass pads are...as good as the CarPro? Not as good as the CarPro but better than the LC? The Griot's are usable and will not damage as the LC pads will?

I have all three brands, I just want to make sure which I am throwing out next trip down to the basement. (just because that sounds confusing I have different sizes, etc.)
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Yes, the LC pads feel like you are putting a piece of concrete in the shape of a buffing pad. It's almost rock solid and even with a slightly wrong technique (angling the machine, overworking the polish and dry buffing), you can and will create a ton of damage and buffer marks which will be very frustrating to remove. I'd only use that in the most extreme situation and practice on a junk car before doing a customer's car with it so you feel comfortable.
 
If you find that Ceriglass is not "cutting" it, you need to get some cerium oxide powder and mix it 50/50 with water. I find that has noticeably more cut than CERIGLASS.
 
I've used compounds such as Meg's Ultimate to get water spots and wiper scratches out before.. worked really good.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yes, but what about the Griot's pads? Are they as good as the CarPro? As bad as the LC?
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I have only used the LC and CarPro glass pads but from what I have seen the Griot's version is very flexible just like the CarPro pads. They appear to be almost identical.
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
I have only used the LC and CarPro glass pads but from what I have seen the Griot's version is very flexible just like the CarPro pads. They appear to be almost identical.
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Thanks. That's the way they appear to me, just the Velcro side is red on the CarPro and black on the Griot's.

I guess I'm just trying to make sure that no one has had bad experiences with the Griot's like with the LC.
 
Kaban said:
To the guys saying you don't need a rotary, I will agree and disagree with you.

Yes, maybe you can get away with a PC but it will take you at least double or triple the time to get out serious defects. Secondly, not all glass is the same. Like I said some glass just seems to be a hell of alot harder than other glass and that is going to vary from car to car. Unless you have polished glass surfaces from every manufacturer, you cannot say you don't NEED a rotary.

I've tried the DA route and while it may be doable if you have all the time in the world, if you do this for a living and are looking for a SANE method that will not require you to spend hours on a windshield, than YES you will want to use the rotary. You can't even argue that. Rotary is just faster and seems like the tool to use.
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I polished defects out of my windshield and rear window and it didn't take too long. I was once adding polish to the pad and worked it about 15-20 mins each side for the rear glass. The defects were "normal" - 12 years of wiper scratches. It surprised me as well. I'm sure a rotary is faster at polishing glass, as it is on paint. The windshield took longer, maybe an hour and a half, but it was severely scratched and also hazed up from LC glass pads.

I've never used a rotary, so can't comment on that, but the DA didn't take too long. It certainly wasn't unrealistic.

I'm wondering if its possible to put "holograms" in glass with a rotary or mess up the clarity???

The "trick" that worked for me is keeping the polish sloppy wet and the Griots on speed 6. Keeping the polish wet, the DA has almost no resistance, because the pads are so thin there is little mass. (Or wet polish absorbed). The pads fly on the glass.

Also, because your keeping it wet, the glass and the pad doesn't overheat - so this "synergistic benefit" allows you to put a lot of downward force on the DA. More than if polishing paint.

My Rupes is coming tomorrow I'm tempted to try that. But the Griots worked so well I think I'll stick to that when I do my side windows.

Trust me, nobody was more surprised than me how well it all worked.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yes, but what about the Griot's pads? Are they as good as the CarPro? As bad as the LC?
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I have not tried the carpro pads, but definitely gonna get them now since it sounes like they are "the bomb".

The Griots polishing pads are ALOT softer and more forgiving than the LC pads. I've never had them leave any kind of buffer marks regardless of how they were used and I have used them to take out some nasty scratches that people said "professional" glass experts said could not be salvaged.
 
Kaban said:
The Griots polishing pads are ALOT softer and more forgiving than the LC pads. I've never had them leave any kind of buffer marks regardless of how they were used and I have used them to take out some nasty scratches that people said "professional" glass experts said could not be salvaged.
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Thanks, I'm going to be finishing my windshield polishing project any weekend now, and I'm only going to use the Griot's and CarPro pads...I'm throwing the LC away (well, not really).
 
swanicyouth said:
I polished defects out of my windshield and rear window and it didn't take too long. I was once adding polish to the pad and worked it about 15-20 mins each side for the rear glass. The defects were "normal" - 12 years of wiper scratches. It surprised me as well. I'm sure a rotary is faster at polishing glass, as it is on paint. The windshield took longer, maybe an hour and a half, but it was severely scratched and also hazed up from LC glass pads.

I've never used a rotary, so can't comment on that, but the DA didn't take too long. It certainly wasn't unrealistic.

I'm wondering if its possible to put "holograms" in glass with a rotary or mess up the clarity???

The "trick" that worked for me is keeping the polish sloppy wet and the Griots on speed 6. Keeping the polish wet, the DA has almost no resistance, because the pads are so thin there is little mass. (Or wet polish absorbed). The pads fly on the glass.

Also, because your keeping it wet, the glass and the pad doesn't overheat - so this "synergistic benefit" allows you to put a lot of downward force on the DA. More than if polishing paint.

My Rupes is coming tomorrow I'm tempted to try that. But the Griots worked so well I think I'll stick to that when I do my side windows.

Trust me, nobody was more surprised than me how well it all worked.
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If all you are polishing is minor "normal" windshield defects, than a DA can certainly be enough to tackle the task. I am talking more about abnormal scratches that jump out at you because they are deep and created from some sort of accident or mishap like one I did where the rubber portion of the wiper came off and the wipers were used...so basically one of the wiper arms was working and the metal frame of it was scratching the windshield. That took a good effort even with a rotary so I can only imagine how long a da would take.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Thanks, I'm going to be finishing my windshield polishing project any weekend now, and I'm only going to use the Griot's and CarPro pads...I'm throwing the LC away (well, not really).
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Does AG sell the carpro pads?

I remember when I bought my lc and gg pads, I only bought them because AG did not offer anything else at the time. I didnt even know carpro made their own pads.
 
can i apply ceriglass by hand?? i mean i dont use any rotary or DA polisher.
 
hardysukito said:
can i apply ceriglass by hand?? i mean i dont use any rotary or DA polisher.
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You can, but I probably wouldn't. Reason being is, I'd only use CeriGlass to fix defects in glass, and you wouldn't be able to remove defects in glass by hand.

If your just trying to remove bonded contaminants and some water spots, is go with Pinnacle Glass Polish by hand.
 
swanicyouth said:
You can, but I probably wouldn't. Reason being is, I'd only use CeriGlass to fix defects in glass, and you wouldn't be able to remove defects in glass by hand.

If your just trying to remove bonded contaminants and some water spots, is go with Pinnacle Glass Polish by hand.
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Thanks @swanicyouth for your info! i want to eliminate some fine scratches on my '00 Toyota windshield caused by wipers.
i recently eliminated water spots on my windshield by using Meg's Ultimate Compound and it took a long time to do. and the rest i see are fine scratches.
maybe i should buy the polisher first :)
 
zmcgovern45 said:
I began working at a speed of 5, and used a stopwatch on my phone to monitor the time. I polished for 5 minutes and then decided to check my results... Let's just say I did not make any progress. In fact, I made it MUCH WORSE.

B4D50238-6344-4F58-858F-22012E1BF144-3470-00000151FC5FB988_zpsd12801a4.jpg


You can see the terrible haze/marring and larger pigtail type defects left behind. They were everywhere... the picture doesn't do it justice.

-Zach
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The fisrt time I used the Ceriglass polish was when it was first introduced to the U.S. via the AG store and at this time we did not have the Rayon Glass Polishing pads.

It's possibly the glass rayon pads were not available yet or even invented yet. Does anyone know the date for either?

I used the Rayon Glass Polishing pads today on the wife's Honda with a PORTER CABLE and while it takes a long time it did work.


:)
 
I posted about the Carpro pads in December 2012. At that time AG didn't sell them, just CarPro. I don't think they were out very long before that.
 
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