Thanks for that Jim. Are you sure it's not 1/20? ( the info I looked up says the no-load opm range is 3200-9600, and the no-load rotational speed is 160-480 rpm (or 2.7 to 8 rotations per second), BUT...that's without a polishing load.
I turned it by hand to see how many actual rotations went with an orbit. The ratio is definitely 10 to 1.
That's why I was confused about the maximum rating of 9600 OPM. They must be counting the strokes (oscillations) rather than the actual orbit to create a comparison figure to other DAs.
The label on the body of the flex says only that at speed 6, you will see 480 RPM at no load.
It's amazing how much consternation we can create about the various polishers for anyone who has not used one before. It only took one panel until I understood how to control the Flex and not have it walking away on me. The only really important thing is to keep it level with the surface being polished.
I never use it on the edge. It wasn't designed to work that way. It wouldn't be orbiting, just bouncing on the paint.
Normal human reaction to looking at the results is to increase the speed if it isn't doing what you want it to do. I also learned to not increase speed, just let it work a little longer. It's impatience (even with a rotary polisher) that leads to accidents. Just like in everything else, speed kills!
I have also acquired a PE14-2-150 rotary, specifically for things like using the CarPro rayon and velvet pads to remove orange peel on other people's cars. There are very few instances where I think that the XC3401 won't do the job.
I think that the Rupes polisher will do an excellent job as well, but when I was making my purchase decision I decided that I wanted (needed?) the forced rotation of the Flex.
If I were doing this professionally, I'd want a DA (GG6), a Flex 3401, a Rupes 15 and 21 (plus a 75) along with a PE-14-2-150 and either a Makita or DeWalt full size rotary.
As an amateur, I think a 3401 or a Rupes (15 or 21) would be more than adequate as a single machine. The GG6 would probably also make a good choice.
Once someone makes their decision, and purchases one of these units, their forum posts will always reflect their chosen unit as being the best.
I don't think someone can go wrong with any of these units. Any of them can and will produce excellent results, with the exception of the occasional defective polisher.
So, if you're undecided, research all of them, pick the features that are most important to you, buy it, and start getting results!
If you're coming from a normal DA like a Porter Cable, don't start with the highest speed. I found that I didn't need to use more than speed 4 to get excellent results.
Jim
PS - the strike through I caused came from using a heavy cutting pad and compound on original paint in a spot where the paint was extremely thin and there was a fairly sharp edge. Mix of old and new paint on the vehicle. I would have never used something so aggressive on OEM paint, except that we had some overspray at the edge point where the new was blendec to the old. My bad! Would never blame that on the tool, rather on the technique (or lack thereof as a rookie). Once was enough to teach me the lesson, and I'll never make that mistake again. Fortunately, I had a professional painter to clean up my error. Even if I hadn't, no one less than about 7 feet tall would have even seen it, as I could only spot it when I was up on a ladder and I'm 6'4".
