Cutting and Polishing combo

Paulyfe12

Paulyfe12

New member
Joined
Apr 23, 2014
Messages
149
Reaction score
0
thinking of taking another crack at my candy white VW paint, my first time didnt really do a whole lot of correction. used lake country orange pads and wolfgang TSR 3.0 with a 6 inch Griot's Garage DA with a 6 inch and 3.5 inch backing plate, but the scratches stayed for the most part, got the superficial stuff but im looking to do more work. So here are my options, I could use Meguiars professional DA compound and DA polish with Meguiars DA cutting pads and a foam polishing pad. I could use the Microfiber cutting pad with the foam pad and use Wolfgnag TSR again and Wolfgang finishing glaze. Or I can use the microfiber cutting pad and foam polishing pad with AMMO Leveling fluid and Jewelers polish. So pretty much I know the pads im gonna use to get more cutting power, Its just about the compound and polish I could use. Also im getting a 5 inch backing plate cause i hear its better for correcting paint. Any suggestions?

Im the MAN
 
Since you're already in the Wolfgang line, why don't you just step up to Uber, then go back to TSR?
 
"Or I can use the microfiber cutting pad and foam polishing pad with AMMO Leveling fluid and Jewelers polish."
If you already have the leveling fluid, then use that.
Personally, I rely on FG400 for heavy correcting. FG400 finishes nicely too because it's a diminishing compound.
 
So you think just stepping up the product would work? My paint is apparently a rock. My only hesitation about gettting the Uber is that I would have to then go over the whole car with the TSR then for a third pass go over it with the finishing glaze. Three stages is a lot of time and work. and the car is brand new, 7000 miles on it and i bought it off the showroom floor so its got scratches from people touching and leaning on it. I figured the microfiber cutting pads would not only cut better but also cut down on tie needed for the correcting.

Has anyone used the meguiars professional compound and polish? they are about half the price of the wolfgang products and the bottles are bigger. thats why i wanted to know if maybe they even worked better than the wolfgang stuff
 
Paulyfe12 said:
So you think just stepping up the product would work? My paint is apparently a rock. My only hesitation about gettting the Uber is that I would have to then go over the whole car with the TSR then for a third pass go over it with the finishing glaze. Three stages is a lot of time and work. and the car is brand new, 7000 miles on it and i bought it off the showroom floor so its got scratches from people touching and leaning on it. I figured the microfiber cutting pads would not only cut better but also cut down on tie needed for the correcting.

Has anyone used the meguiars professional compound and polish? they are about half the price of the wolfgang products and the bottles are bigger. thats why i wanted to know if maybe they even worked better than the wolfgang stuff
Click to expand...

With all due respect, the scratches are probably not from people touching and leaning on the car, it's from the dealer wash bay, or the salesmen wiping it down with towels they dropped on the floor.

If you are referring to Meg's D300 and D301/302, sure they are good. You are right that in today's world, you should be able to do a two-step correction, especially on a white car. If you use the Wolfgang Uber, you can probably skip right to the Finishing Glaze, or use the TSR and skip the Finishing Glaze. The TSR and the FG should finish out about the same, but the TSR has more cut.

Or use D300 and follow it with D301 or D302. Or M100/101/105 and M205. Or use Menzerna. Or Optimum. Or I don't know how many other systems, they are all good today.
 
If you finish-down the FG400 properly, which isn't that hard, you'll be LSP ready on a white car.
 
expdetailing said:
If you finish-down the FG400 properly, which isn't that hard, you'll be LSP ready on a white car.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that too...we should reinforce to the OP that you don't HAVE to step through all the "steps", once you get your desired results, you're done. Most of today's compounds are capable of an excellent finish, especially on hard paint in a light color.
 
your probably right, the bulk of the scratches are straight line scratches along the fenders, tops of the door and all over the roof, probably from a brush on a extension poll. and yea that's the ones, d300 compound and the polish. I mean I know the concern of most people is to take too much off. But I feel like every time I touch the paint I am never aggressive enough.

FG400 I think I was looking at that for a bit. But I chose the wolfgang system cause i figured using a dedicated compound followed by a dedicated polish would get better results than just one product
 
Maybe the Uber will finish without the need for TSR since it's a diminishing abrasive too. Let us know how it goes.
 
ok i would like to poss two final questions

1. Do you think the combo of WG Uber and Finishing Glaze is on par or better than Menzerna FG400 and SF4500? Cause if the Menzerna stuff is worth the extra money then I will happily fork over the money, but it would only cost me about 39 bucks for the Uber seeing as i already have the finishing glaze.

2. Do you think I could use these products with my current 6 inch orange and white LC foam pads? Or should I get the 5 inch backing plate and buy new pads?

oh btw any tips for getting in the door handle wells? I have CCS hand polishing pads, but I feel like it doesn't cut enough to get rid of the scratches in there.

I really appreciate the help guys
 
I think it's public knowledge here that the Wolfgang compounds/polishes are made by Menzerna to Wolfgang specs, so the WG products you mention should be at least equal to the Menz products.

Sure you would get more cut with smaller pads, but you should be fine with what you have. I think you will be able to clean up the door cups with the Uber on your CCS hand pads.
 
Alrighty then Uber it is, will have to report back with the results
 
Yeah, the TSR and 4500 are similar. Beteen the fg400 and uber, go whith the better deal money wise. If you went fg400, you could follow up with TSR if you felt like it.
 
think im gonna go with Uber, then if it finishes nice enough ill use the finishing glaze. The Uber is suppose to be on the level of the FG400 so Im guessing it will finish to the same gloss level as the TSR, so I figure take another step in a glossy direction with a fine polish before its sealed.
 
Just 2 put it out there, 2 get the best results for paint corrections ur gonna need a rotary polisher. Da's have come a long way but they're still no match for the old fashioned high speed. Learning how to use 1 is the best tool u could put in your arsenal when it comes 2 clear coat repairs
 
K1NGGREEN said:
Just 2 put it out there, 2 get the best results for paint corrections ur gonna need a rotary polisher. Da's have come a long way but they're still no match for the old fashioned high speed. Learning how to use 1 is the best tool u could put in your arsenal when it comes 2 clear coat repairs
Click to expand...


I don't buy this. Sorry. We have seen the Rupes system remove like 1200 grit sanding marks and finish quite well.

I also don't buy that rotaries somehow leave a "deeper" finish.
 
swanicyouth said:
i don't buy this. Sorry. We have seen the rupes system remove like 1200 grit sanding marks and finish quite well.

I also don't buy that rotaries somehow leave a "deeper" finish.
Click to expand...

1200 grit uniform sand scratches is one thing, RIDS is another. Not seeing the car and the depth of damage i can't even say they can be completely removed. A rupes or any other ra for that matter, can't generate enough heat and friction 2 eliminate scratches of that nature. If u wanted 2 get the job done with an ra or da ud have 2 sand down the scratch with finer scratches b4 u could use the polisher. I'm going 2 assume your one of the many that's never learned how to use a rotary, and theres nothing wrong with that, but it's generally left to the pros for a reason. We use a high speed because they do things ra's can't. If that weren't the case there'd be no reason 2 own 1. Not to mention the time, energy and extra product ud have 2 put in 2 get similar results. It's not an opinionated statement when i say rotary buffers can do things that ra's simply cannot, or at least not without a substantial amount more work. Food for thought.
 
I have the same HARD paint as u OP on my candy white VW and I just did a full 2 step correction on my car....I have a GG6 with 5" BP and am using Meguiars thin discs, which are amazing compared to the hex logic pads I used before....I compound with Ultimate compound and polish with m205 and got very good results....there's still RIDS here and there but the overall look is VERY improved.

the Ultimate compound finished down really good, and I probably could've went right to LSP but I figured I'd just do the polish since I was already at it....the polish went really good as well giving it that extra touch of shine....keep on at it and you'll get through on the hard paint, if I can do it anyone can lol
 
K1NGGREEN said:
1200 grit uniform sand scratches is one thing, RIDS is another. Not seeing the car and the depth of damage i can't even say they can be completely removed. A rupes or any other ra for that matter, can't generate enough heat and friction 2 eliminate scratches of that nature. If u wanted 2 get the job done with an ra or da ud have 2 sand down the scratch with finer scratches b4 u could use the polisher. I'm going 2 assume your one of the many that's never learned how to use a rotary, and theres nothing wrong with that, but it's generally left to the pros for a reason. We use a high speed because they do things ra's can't. If that weren't the case there'd be no reason 2 own 1. Not to mention the time, energy and extra product ud have 2 put in 2 get similar results. It's not an opinionated statement when i say rotary buffers can do things that ra's simply cannot, or at least not without a substantial amount more work. Food for thought.
Click to expand...

Maybe its not only the heat and friction that the DA polisher may need to eliminate scratches, it also requires the combination of an appropriate compound and proper techniques to eliminate deeper scratches.
And it would be wrong to assume that people who says "DA polisher can do the job properly", does not know how to use a rotary polisher properly.
It could work both ways, people who assumes that a DA polisher cant do a job of a rotary polisher possibly does not know how to maximize their DA polisher.
Bottom line is, which ever system works, and if the end results are met, i think this is what matters most.
 
I never tried WG before but I heard WG and menzerna are same manufacture, different label pretty much, but i cannot confirm this 100%

since i never tried WG, i will going to say use menzerna. what I would do is one step polish with menzerna fg400 + polish pad.

it is rubbing compound, but DAT (Diminishing Abrasives Technology) and long buffing cycle gives you LSP ready when you used it with polish pad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top