Why is everyone afraid of rotary polishers? And what's this about not finishing properly?

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TheDetailGeeks

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Just got a Hitachi at a steal of a deal... $40!

Let me start by saying that I had never used a rotary before yesterday. My only experience with polishers has been with a PC 7424XP.

With the Hitachi, I applied Meguiars Ultimate Compound with an Orange CCS pad at 2,000 RPM, and it has been working out brilliantly. No swirls or holograms.

I hear all this hullaballoo about rotary being dangerous/not a good finishing tool/ leaves holograms and swirls/ takes years to learn, but I'm a n00b and am not experiencing any of these things.

Did I just get lucky, or am I missing something here?
 
Cause rotary "can" burn the paint "easier" than a DA. Rotary "can" be more difficult to control. Rotary "can" leave holograms.

In my opinion, after using almost every product under the sun, a rotary works better on polishes and compounds. Every polish will work with a rotary, but not every polish will work with a DA....my opinion of course.

For me, brands like Sonax, Menzerna, Scholl, all work better via rotary. Sure they work great via DA, but it's the shiiiiz with rotary.

I use my Flex PE-14 just as much as my DA, unlike many who have not touched a rotary after buying a DA.

Lastly, not doubting your results, but 2000 rpm with UC is very ideal hologram conditions; especially on black. UC has lots of oils, you might see the holograms in bright sun after the next wash.
 
How did you inspect your paint after the polishing. Was it in the sun or led light?
The reason i am afraid of the rotary is because if i stay in one spot for too long its very unforgiving
 
I still use my Makita....yes if you have the skills ..I know I can finish down hologram free...personally I think a rotary makes paint look glossy and leveled reflection than DA...I own 5 various machines and at times will finish down with either the Rupes or Flex
 
That pad, product, speed combination is virtually guaranteed to leave holograms. It's likely they are just difficult to see on that color.
 
with technology and the ever evolving different pads, polishes, and compounds for the DA, you can accomplish quite a bit without the risk factor and skip a step. one person who I can think of who use to use a rotary strictly was paul dalton and he has been using the rupes bigfoot system with tremendous success for a number of years and doesn't even reach for the rotary as much or if at all anymore. he even mentioned/shown that the the rupes DA can achieve a high level of gloss (as much as a rotary) and has a gloss meter to prove it (I believe kevin brown has mentioned this as well). iirc, he also mentioned that it has made it less stressful as well. of course he has a lot of skill and knowledge so that makes a big difference as well...
 
Just wiped a section with IPA and inspected with an LED light. No swirls that I can see, but I'll wash it tomorrow and report back with what it looks like in direct sunlight, sans residual polishing oils.
 
Interesting point from Mike, made in another thread. This may be the answer I was looking for:

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Just to add...

The thing about using only a rotary buffer on a car is that you can leave what looks like a flawless, hologram free finish in your eyes at that moment.

If there are holograms, you might not be able to see them unless you chemically strip the car and then view the car in bright overhead sun.

  1. Stripping the paint takes time
  2. Stripping the paint risks marring it in the process.
  3. You don't always have a hot, sunny summer day at noon to inspect.
  4. On a light colored car even if their are holograms they can still be hard to see.
So here's the question...

If you don't really do a great job of completely stripping off any oils, fillers other masking ingredients and then inspect in full sun or very bright light... how will you actually know 100% that you've left a 100% hologram-free finish?

The answer is you won't.

The above all said, if there are holograms, as long as you don't see them and as long as you maintain the paint with a wax, sealant or coating, then the point is moot.


Here's what I know and what I've also see a lot of seasoned professional agree with and that's in most cases, the holograms won't show up till months have gone by and the car in question has been washed over and over again.


I do some rotary buffer only buff-outs... I have nothing against them for the right car and the right owner.

Plus, with products like SF 4500, Sonax Nano Polish and soft foam pads and slow turning rotary buffers, it's more possible now to leave a hologram finish than ever before.

Go for it!


:dblthumb2:
Click to expand...
 
TheDetailGeeks said:
Interesting point from Mike, made in another thread. This may be the answer I was looking for:
Click to expand...



Looks like you may have found your answer. holograms are not always to see and may pop up later making you wonder where they came from. I will use my rotary for grunt work and finish off with the da, better safe than sorry.
 
You are less likely to leave holograms on a rotary with a foam pad over wool, but at 2000 RPM, that chance increases greatly. Honestly, there is no need to be at 2000 RPMs on a rotary IMO. IIRC, the recommended speed for M105 is 1400-1800 RPMS. Very seldom does my rotary ever go above 1400.
Rotary is a good tool for production detailing and for super heavy cutting. I use a rotary constantly, but also use my FLEX 3401 constantly as well. Mastering the rotary makes you a better polisher honestly, or at least that is how I feel.
 
If there are any holograms, the paint color hides them very well. These are in direct sunlight. Any scratches you see are deeper ones that were there when I got the car, that haven't been removed yet.

I'm going to go back over the whole car when I have some time with:

Megs UC / Orange CCS Pad / 1400 RPM

followed by Megs UP / White CCS Pad / 1400 RPM

followed by BFWD / Hand Application


20150209_124928.jpg


20150209_124751.jpg
 
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