SEMI transport truck pointers

[tuscarora dave]

tuscarora dave you summed it up real well , !!

PAYING YOUR DUES IS WHAT YOU ARE DOING !!
CAUSE ONCE's its done!!

THE KNOWLEDGE IS WORTH more!!!

Yeah!! I've definitely payed my dues!! I can't tell you how many times I've grumbled under my breath about nothing working on these things , just to go out and buy another $50 quart of something that also wouldn't work.

Or...Sprayed on a strong cleaner starting at the top instead of at the bottom before a wash only, just to find that now I'm left with clean and dirty streaks that in the end had to be polished off because no amount of scrubbing would produce an even clean look...

Or....allowed that same strong cleaner to run down over clean and shiny uncoated aluminum just to have to repolish to remove the resulting etchings....

Thanks for backing me up on the paying your dues thing, you've clearly been there and done that!!

 

[Mantilgh]

Dave, thank you for all the information that you are supplying here. Not to thread jack, hopefully my questions will add to this and help others that have questions.

Could you let me know if there is a way to tell if I have a single stage paint or a gelcoat?

I have a 97 Volvo straight truck painted Lunar Yellow and thought it was just single stage paint until I read some of your post, now I'm wondering if it is a gelcoat.

I have not attempted to work on it. We did have mid 90s Frieghtliner painted the same colour that I "cleaned" up using Meg's #9. Seemed to work well, and was planning on doing the same to the Volvo in the spring.

Any suggestions for removing staining from paint, either single stage or gelcoat?

The #9 seemed to work alright for stain removal on the other truck.

Truck is very stained but only really noticeable on the side section below the windshield (from nasty truck stop self serve window wash) and on the fuel tank.

Also, the bumper and fuel tanks seem to be lighter in colour than the rest of the truck and bumper is much more oxidized.

 

[tuscarora dave]

Dave, thank you for all the information that you are supplying here. Not to thread jack, hopefully my questions will add to this and help others that have questions.

Could you let me know if there is a way to tell if I have a single stage paint or a gelcoat?

I have a 97 Volvo straight truck painted Lunar Yellow and thought it was just single stage paint until I read some of your post, now I'm wondering if it is a gelcoat.

I have not attempted to work on it. We did have mid 90s Frieghtliner painted the same colour that I "cleaned" up using Meg's #9. Seemed to work well, and was planning on doing the same to the Volvo in the spring.

Any suggestions for removing staining from paint, either single stage or gelcoat?

The #9 seemed to work alright for stain removal on the other truck.

Truck is very stained but only really noticeable on the side section below the windshield (from nasty truck stop self serve window wash) and on the fuel tank.

Also, the bumper and fuel tanks seem to be lighter in colour than the rest of the truck and bumper is much more oxidized.

The more interaction these threads get the better it is for all who are interested. Your questions are certainly welcomed here.

I would take a dark colored terry cloth towel, perhaps you can sneak one of Mom's good black wash cloths out of the bathroom closet, wrap it around your index finger then put a little polish or compound on it and rub it vigorously back and forth on the Lunar Yellow on the hood. Flip it back over and take a look at the towel under your index finger. Does it have yellow on it? If it does, then it's most likely single stage paint.

Gel coat is more like a real thick resin clear coat and shouldn't rub off onto the towel. Perform this test on each panel because there could be some parts gel coat and some parts painted, especially if you are seeing different shades of yellow from one panel to the next.

Regardless whether it's gel coat or painted, stain removal will be performed similarly. Nothing works better than a non abrasive liquid metal polish at removing these stains. It won't do much if anything for heavy gel coat oxidation but it does a pretty good job at removing light oxidation from the painted parts.

 

[tuscarora dave]

I think a lot of the crud that gets in and on these trailers has a good percentage of metal tarnish in it, both from it's own metal structure, and from the high percentage of metal rolling down the highway. There's like a water, grease, mud, metal, rubber slurry splashing around from one big rig to the next during wet highway driving conditions. The fact that these rigs don't have a protective clear coat protecting the paint like cars do, just invites all this slop to absorb into the paint on these rigs.

I copied and pasted this little tidbit from post#20 to bring it back up front, as to why I think the non abrasive liquid metal polishes work so well on these big rigs for stain removal in the paint or gel coat.

 

[tuscarora dave]

I'd be willing to bet that if I took a nice strong magnet, stopped along the shoulder of the highway, walked over to where all the gravel and other debris collects on the shoulder and rolled my magnet all around in that gravel debris it would come up with a good bit of metal dust on it. This theoretically would support my theory in post #44 above.

 

[Mantilgh]

Thanks Dave.

Non abrasive metal polish for paint cleaning and test the different panels for paint transfer to help determine paint type.

Are Aluminum wheels on trucks typically uncoated?

I assume for wheels, just use the method as above with white rag and paint polish or compound.

Any good OTC polishes good for the dual purpose of Al polishing and paint cleaning?


Roadside Metal note:
All the rust removed by wheels blasting the underbody while driving on wet roads

 

[tuscarora dave]

Thanks Dave.

You're welcome

Non abrasive metal polish for paint cleaning and test the different panels for paint transfer to help determine paint type.

That's right. I like to do a caustic wash when trucks look the way yours does. I use a half gallon of Super Clean mixed in a 2 gallon sprayer with 1 1/2 gallons of water, spray it on a reasonable working area starting at the bottom of the truck and wetting from there to to the top of the area where I'll be scrubbing. Let it dwell for a few minutes as I keep spraying lightly from time to time to insure that my entire work area stays wet. After a few minutes of dwell time I hit it with a wash brush dipped in a bucket with a car wash soap / super clean / water mix and scrub thoroughly. This gets a good thorough clean to start with. You can typically see a nice milky liquid oxidation slurry dripping off of the truck as you rinse each area you work as you move around the truck. I try to keep this caustic wash off of the glass, and rinse it off right away if it does get on the glass.

Let it drip dry then test your liquid metal polish with a soft polishing pad preferably on a Flex 3401 VRG polisher. Rotary polishers really don't work well at all for this process. The cost of the machine will be more than covered in time/effort in the first job you do on one of these big rigs.

Are Aluminum wheels on trucks typically uncoated?

Some are coated but a lot of them are raw unpolished, some are polished, most were polished at one time.

I assume for wheels, just use the method as above with white rag and paint polish or compound.

Yep, if it turns black, it's uncoated.

Any good OTC polishes good for the dual purpose of Al polishing and paint cleaning?

Tons of good polishes at truck centers and the likes of Kenworth/Peterbuilt dealerships. Just ask for the non abrasive type.

If there's a penny in the bottle, that's typically an indication that it's an abrasive polish. The penny is used to mix the solids and liquids together like the ball in spray paint cans. Some abrasive polishes will/can work well but typically require a little more work. There are a lot of different grades of abrasives at the truck centers, so find someone who knows the products. Look here at AGO for something.

Roadside Metal note:
All the rust removed by wheels blasting the underbody while driving on wet roads

Yeah. That stuff is always out there churning and gets all up in your truck's/car's paint.

 

[tuscarora dave]

Poorboy's World original formula Pro Polish Poorboy's Professional Polish: Now Poorboy’s Professional Polish is creamy”, making it more user-friendly and a real pleasure to apply! poorboys works pretty good as it's really more of a metal polish than anything. It's mostly non abrasive, very very light abrasive but mostly a chemical polish.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

tuscarora dave you summed it up real well , !!

PAYING YOUR DUES IS WHAT YOU ARE DOING !!
CAUSE ONCE's its done!!

THE KNOWLEDGE IS WORTH more!!!

Yeah!! I've definitely payed my dues!! I can't tell you how many times I've grumbled under my breath about nothing working on these things , just to go out and buy another $50 quart of something that also wouldn't work.

Or...Sprayed on a strong cleaner starting at the top instead of at the bottom before a wash only, just to find that now I'm left with clean and dirty streaks that in the end had to be polished off because no amount of scrubbing would produce an even clean look...

Or....allowed that same strong cleaner to run down over clean and shiny uncoated aluminum just to have to repolish to remove the resulting etchings....

Thanks for backing me up on the paying your dues thing, you've clearly been there and done that!!

Lifelong motto of mine.
Hard Times is my c.b. handle.
Sun visor swung to the inside for photo.



Exterior view

 

[Vegas Transplant]

I think a lot of the crud that gets in and on these trailers has a good percentage of metal tarnish in it, both from it's own metal structure, and from the high percentage of metal rolling down the highway.

Especially from that big overhead hay rack and structure.

 

[captain detail]

I've bitten off more than I could feasibly chew many times over until I figured out what to use and how to use it on totally neglected commercial vehicles. It's kind of like paying your dues to get good at it.

How well do you know this client? Tell him you need to do some testing with a few different products and processes before estimating the job, do some test spots and get back to him with an estimate. It really is a big job and if you struggle through the entire thing due to lack of experience, is it really fair to charge him for that lack of experience? You're best off being 100% honest with him up front that you need to find out exactly what you need to do to get the results he wants, and the only way to do that is to do some testing. Then do the math, figure out a ball park amount of time you think it will take you to finish the job, then add a little time to your estimated number to cover unexpected problems that take more time.

It's not easy to throw a number out on a job like this. If you think the bill should be $1500, throw out a number of around $2200 and let him negotiate you down a little if he needs to. Really it depends on what you need to make per day and what he needs to stay within budget wise. It's better to collect the required information in doing the testing, to put out a good accurate estimate and have him pass than it is to throw out a low ball number and get ripped on the job. If you do that you'll be pissed off for doing it and he'll expect to pay a low ball number moving forward.



What is a good days pay for you? What kind of overhead do you have to cover? What will you need to pay for in materials to get the job done? Add up your expected daily labor, add in for a helper if you'll have one with you, times that by the number of days you think it will take after doing your testing to see what you're actually dealing with, add in the estimated cost of pads and products + shipping. You're not in this to break even so make at least 30% on all your materials, add that in...what's your total?

If it cleans up fairly easy I could see having 25 to 30 hours in making it look real good if you're doing the trailer and the rig. If it's totally oxidized to hell and gel coat you could possibly triple that time.

One thing I know for sure is that you almost always take a whoopin until you get good at this stuff.



Works exceedingly well in cleaning up the paint on these commercial vehicles, and of course it'll do a good job on the metal too.

Hadn't, but I just googled it. looks like a racing VW Gulf. What about it?



That's the one. Admin might not be too happy about the link being posted here though.

i detailed that right after, by the inventor himself !!!

 

[captain detail]

Yeah!! I've definitely payed my dues!! I can't tell you how many times I've grumbled under my breath about nothing working on these things , just to go out and buy another $50 quart of something that also wouldn't work.

Or...Sprayed on a strong cleaner starting at the top instead of at the bottom before a wash only, just to find that now I'm left with clean and dirty streaks that in the end had to be polished off because no amount of scrubbing would produce an even clean look...

Or....allowed that same strong cleaner to run down over clean and shiny uncoated aluminum just to have to repolish to remove the resulting etchings....

Thanks for backing me up on the paying your dues thing, you've clearly been there and done that!!

HEY ANYONE THATs done these kind of projects whether one time or numerous times know what you are saying, i dont think no one thats doing projects like this says i know what to do!! our first thought when we look at something this big is what did i get into!!!and those that just try n mess up like burning the paint n giving up after that just mean its not for you unfortunely but those that look for answer on how to or this that!! and make it happen like you said DAVE Thats paying your dues!!CAuse one thing about it once you take on a sucker like this n finish !BEST SATISFACTION IS KNOWING YOU CAN DETAIL ANYTHING BIG OR SMALL !! THATS WHEN YOU KNOW WHETHER HAVE A 3 figure businnes or doing it JUST ENOUGH < THAT YOUR WORK WILL ALWAYS BE A SATISFACTORY !!!!GURANTEED Or your paint burned!!!c7424:

 

[envious2014]

true. sorry still new to the forum, my etiquette is not as refined as most. But trust me I by 90% of my detailing products from here so we are good. I just google it and thats what came up.

 

[envious2014]

i meant "buy" not "by"

 

[Vegas Transplant]

Dave, thank you for all the information that you are supplying here. Not to thread jack, hopefully my questions will add to this and help others that have questions.

Could you let me know if there is a way to tell if I have a single stage paint or a gelcoat?

I have a 97 Volvo straight truck painted Lunar Yellow and thought it was just single stage paint until I read some of your post, now I'm wondering if it is a gelcoat.

I have not attempted to work on it. We did have mid 90s Frieghtliner painted the same colour that I "cleaned" up using Meg's #9. Seemed to work well, and was planning on doing the same to the Volvo in the spring.

Any suggestions for removing staining from paint, either single stage or gelcoat?

The #9 seemed to work alright for stain removal on the other truck.

Truck is very stained but only really noticeable on the side section below the windshield (from nasty truck stop self serve window wash) and on the fuel tank.

Also, the bumper and fuel tanks seem to be lighter in colour than the rest of the truck and bumper is much more oxidized.

Give me a rough date on when you are planning on doing this project and I'll lend a helping hand. I will bring tools and supplies. Need at least two weeks notice or I can load a run through your area.
I believe the biggest issue is rust transferring from the steel hay rack. Evidenced by the staining of the fuel tank. Tank is painted??? Bummer

My last project was a cherry.
2015 ProStar with 217 miles on the clock.
Piece of cake.

 

[Mantilgh]

Thanks Vegas Transplant. If you want to help that would be awesome. I don't have much for tools, just my "wax spreader" and my drill I use as a 3" rotary.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

You won't get far with those on such a large canvas.

If this is a working truck that criss-crosses I-70, then may I suggest the basic truck wash from Blue Beacon. Just add the acid option. For approx. $50 you can get it clay ready without the hassle or expense of doing it yourself. But of course you can de-con wash it yourself for around $20 but you gotta watch out for the glass.

Leaving sometime today for a four day class in Salisbury NC, followed by a week or so of on the road day trips to learn new employer methods and practices.

As for OTC metal polishes, I would go for heavy cut like Zephyr Pro 40 or White Diamond. Then follow up with Mothers.

As for the drill, you can use a small backing plate and pads from AG or maybe Harbor freight. I forget what they have. Those wheels will bling using elbow grease or machine http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...luminum-wheels-aluminum-finishing-polish.html

Will pm you before Friday. I want to send you samples of product to do various test spots at your leisure.

 

[Mantilgh]

Never seems like a good time to go to one when out and unloaded and keep my day as short as I can. Usualy anywhere from 8-14+ hrs sometimes when I'm working, and when at home a 2 and 4 yr old to help out with. Probably will wash myself when the weather warms up some. Pretty much in survival mode this time off year.

I found some Wab cleaning products at an International place near me. They have a couple high pH, two low pH cleaners, and a slightly basic truck wash. Not sure if they offer everything at the shop. I'm sure there is a bunch of truck supply places near me(70/81) just haven't looked.

Yeh, the Sears wax spreader was a lot of work but better than by hand. A lot of weight too. Had used #9 and the wax spreader on the other Frieghtliner we had. Worked two days on it, not non-stop or anything, maybe a real full days worth of work. Ended up looking decent.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

Long lines for sure. I hate waiting at these places.

I'm very unconventional myself. Mix my own acid to wash solution. Tuscarora Dave has a method where he chases an acid wash with an alkaline wash or rinse...i forget which. The tractor I just walked away from was washed weekly by me while waiting or during resets. Co. had Blue Beacon account which I did not use often.

Since this is not high priority til spring we'll get things figured out. I enjoy seeing classic tractors blinged out. My first Volvo tractor (co. issued) was about the time frame of your tractor.

Happy detailing...:autowash:

 

[Mantilgh]

Yep, no rush. Way to cold around here right now with more great weather on the way. Will try to slowly get some supplies.

Thanks again for the info.