s0 equivalents and which hand applicator

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sansa

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hi everyone! are there equivalent products of scholl S0 in the market in terms of cutting power?
What kind of manual applicator is better? Foam (heavy or medium), wool, microfiber or the scholl feltpad??
Thanks so much guys!
 
AGOatemywallet said:
What will you be polishing by hand?
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There is no s0 in the chart you posted.
I'm going to wet sand with p1500 (that is 800 USA cami grit) 3m sandpaper by hand and then use s0 to eliminate every mark. I'm going to use it by hand because I'm sure the abrasives break down with temperature so using a machine won't be good. By hand it cuts more than with polisher...

The question is: which applicator?
 
sansa said:
There is no s0 in the chart you posted.
I'm going to wet sand with p1500 (that is 800 USA cami grit) 3m sandpaper by hand and then use s0 to eliminate every mark. I'm going to use it by hand because I'm sure the abrasives break down with temperature so using a machine won't be good. By hand it cuts more than with polisher...
k
The question is: which applicator?
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If there's no machine involved get a terry circled applicator.I think using by hand won't yield great results,it will be strenuous and tedious work.what kind of project are you working on.
 
If you don't have a DA, I am guessing you also don't have a Paint Thickness Gauge

Sanding with 1500 grit is serious stuff

If it was me, I would follow with 3000 grit to save my hands, shoulders and time

Compounding out 1500 on even one panel, by hand, will be exhausting
 
I could be wrong, but don't think the abrasives in this type of compound are meant to break down. It's a "matting" compound. Rather they were probably designed to produce a uniform scratch pattern close to what our 1000 grit makes and needs to be followed up with a less aggressive compound and/or polish after to produce glossy results.

Headlights?
 
Mantilgh said:
I could be wrong, but don't think the abrasives in this type of compound are meant to break down. Rather they were probably designed to produce a uniform scratch pattern close to what our 1000 grit makes and needs to be followed up with a less aggressive compound and/or polish after to produce glossy results.

Headlights?
Click to expand...
That compound is the bomb,cuts quick and finishes almost to a lsp.The only downside to this product and maybe a few of other products is the coloring it stains faded boat and rv.
 
Mantilgh said:
I could be wrong, but don't think the abrasives in this type of compound are meant to break down. It's a "matting" compound. Rather they were probably designed to produce a uniform scratch pattern close to what our 1000 grit makes and needs to be followed up with a less aggressive compound and/or polish after to produce glossy results.

Headlights?
Click to expand...

Yes I know I have to finish it with s3. Im buying this product because I saw many positive comments (from people who tried it with big foot+feltpad and by hand) . Im just hesitant about the kind of pad I could use by hand ...
And I'm curious to know if it exist an equivalent product or if it is the only product in the world with these properties....
 
To find an equivalent compound you would have to search for something like;

Liquid sand paper

Extreme cut compound

Heavy cut compound

Most will be either be designed for marine use on gel coats, or for body shops and paint prep.
 
GSKR said:
That compound is the bomb,cuts quick and finishes almost to a lsp.The only downside to this product and maybe a few of other products is the coloring it stains faded boat and rv.
Click to expand...

What do you mean with "it stains"?
It should be used on clear coat... Do you mean it leaves marks you cannot remove with s3?
 
Mantilgh said:
I could be wrong, but don't think the abrasives in this type of compound are meant to break down. It's a "matting" compound. Rather they were probably designed to produce a uniform scratch pattern close to what our 1000 grit makes and needs to be followed up with a less aggressive compound and/or polish after to produce glossy results.

Headlights?
Click to expand...

I read comments where someone stated it works actually like a polish. It works really aggressive during the firsts passages and then it breaks and works softer and softer. So if you use it with a polisher at high rpm it should work softer and with less precision than using it by hand because in this case you can control the amount of scratches you want to remove...
 
sansa said:
What do you mean with "it stains"?
It should be used on clear coat... Do you mean it leaves marks you cannot remove with s3?
Click to expand...
when working on a faded gel coat the color dries in the oxidation.if your working on a basecoat clearcoat this promblem doesn't apply to you.
 
Mantilgh said:
To find an equivalent compound you would have to search for something like;

Liquid sand paper

Extreme cut compound

Heavy cut compound

Most will be either be designed for marine use on gel coats, or for body shops and paint prep.
Click to expand...

That's right. This is the reason why I'm asking here. I would love to find an automotive product and not a product for fiberglass...
I'm hoping that there's someone who has some experience with this kind of liquid sandpaper
 
sansa said:
That's right. This is the reason why I'm asking here. I would love to find an automotive product and not a product for fiberglass...
I'm hoping that there's someone who has some experience with this kind of liquid sandpaper
Click to expand...
I use these products all the time with either a rotary or da.what is your ultimate goal to achieve with this product using by hand .kinda of confused break it down for me.
 
They can be used on paint. They are just considered safer for gel coats because there is more material to work with, or in a body shop where they know how much paint thickness they are working with and have the capability of fixing it if they cut though the clear.

I don't think there are too many other products like it here. I'm sure 3M probably has a similar matting compound and Meguiar's has something similar.
 
sansa said:
I'm going to use it by hand because I'm sure the abrasives break down with temperature so using a machine won't be good. By hand it cuts more than with polisher...

?
Click to expand...

Are you sure that the abrasives break down due to the moderate temperatures produced by proper DA polishing ?

A compound may cut more when used by hand, but it will cut much more efficiently when using a machine.

You may have been inspired by Mike Phillips thread using FG400 by hand to remove sanding marks. Please note the size of the area he was correcting, the time it took and the Passion (Sweat) he put into the Polishing.

Good Luck with the project.

Please take lots of close-up photos in the Sun.
 
sansa said:
I'm curious to know if it exist an equivalent product or if it is the only product in the world with these properties....
Click to expand...

A compound that the manufacturer indicates has to be followed by another high cut compound.....that list is very short, if there one

Meguiars makes a similar product, but it is designed to be used with a scuff pad, prior to repainting

Meguiars Unigrit Sand & Clean M31716
 
AGOatemywallet said:
Are you sure that the abrasives break down due to the moderate temperatures produced by proper DA polishing ?

A compound may cut more when used by hand, but it will cut much more efficiently when using a machine.

You may have been inspired by Mike Phillips thread using FG400 by hand to remove sanding marks. Please note the size of the area he was correcting, the time it took and the Passion (Sweat) he put into the Polishing.

Good Luck with the project.

Please take lots of close-up photos in the Sun.
Click to expand...
I don't know where or how compound is broken down correctly by hand,just curios to what kind of project he is doing,cause none of this makes sense to me.
 
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