Mckee's 37 Paint Coating, revisited

D114 cleaned off the gloss enhancers in the soap. But now you put a topper over the coating?
 
It cleaned the gloss enhancers from the 2B wash? If so, thank you tempest!
 
Tempest45 said:
D114 cleaned off the gloss enhancers in the soap. But now you put a topper over the coating?
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No no... I didn't put a topper on the coating. There's no funky business in Last Touch. No wax, no protection, no special hydrophobic properties to it.


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7.3powerstroke said:
You wrote D115 instead of D155
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What are you guys talking about? It clearly says D155. Lol.

Bob's just trying his shenanigans again. I Never mentioned anything about D115. Lol.


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glfnaz said:
It cleaned the gloss enhancers from the 2B wash? If so, thank you tempest!
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That's correct. D114 leaves the paint squeaky clean, for lack of a better word. I use D114 sometimes as a pre rinse spray before bucket washes, and almost always it results in solid beading and even new found beading from protection you might've thought was much thinner until you see the paint for what it really is.


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glfnaz said:
Help me understand E2K...what did the D 114 do to resolve the beading?
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D111 contains gloss enhancers. Same as gold class. So what E2K saw was normal. Which is why I don't use either for coated paint. D114 removed what D111 left behind.

The coating looks great from those after photos after D114. .
 
Eldorado2k said:
No no... I didn't put a topper on the coating. There's no funky business in Last Touch. No wax, no protection, no special hydrophobic properties to it.


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Description of D155:
The formula contains polymeric lubricating agents that remove dust and fingerprints as they form a slick, micro-thin coat of gloss. The lubricants allow dust and dirt to wipe off without scratching.
 
Octopiston said:
Description of D155:
The formula contains polymeric
lubricating agents that remove
dust and fingerprints as they

form a slick, micro-thin coat
of gloss.

The lubricants allow dust and dirt to
wipe off without scratching.
Click to expand...
^^^ :goodpost: ^^^


Additionally:

"Last Touch is a very slick, gloss
enhancing, mist & wipe product that
can add some noticeable shine to a
well prepped and waxed finish".

~Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product &
Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
___________________________________


Bob
 
Octopiston said:
Description of D155:
The formula contains polymeric lubricating agents that remove dust and fingerprints as they form a slick, micro-thin coat of gloss. The lubricants allow dust and dirt to wipe off without scratching.
Click to expand...

Leaves gloss and slickness as I have used it for awhile. But it leaves no hydrophobic properties behind. After the first wash D155 will be gone. So I am going to go out on a limb and say that it won't alter the coating.
 
The Guz said:
Leaves gloss and slickness as I have used it for awhile. But it leaves no hydrophobic properties behind. After the first wash D155 will be gone. So I am going to go out on a limb and say that it won't alter the coating.
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My thoughts exactly. In my book there's a fine line between products that alter the surface and products that are in the same ballpark as normal car wash soaps, or at least get let in the door without a big fuss about them. IMO this includes D155 Last Touch, ONR, Wolfgang Uber [which would suffer from just about the same basic benefits that Last Touch does, yet the Germans state on their description that it leaves nothing altering behind. It's even recommended as clay lube, as is Last Touch, which speaks volumes]

We have to keep in mind that soaps like Carpro Reset, Rupes Shampoo, even Megs Hyperwash, etc. didn't become the optimal choices in order to fully dial things in the way we have the option to these days..

People have loved their beading for decades, but that doesn't mean they were too good to use their Gold Class, Rain Dance, Blue Coral, Armor All, Turtle Zip Wax, and the rest of the old crap available back then before we had it as nice as we do in 2016.

If the Mckee's coating, or any other coating or sealant for that matter saw such great degradation from just washing it with "normal" car wash instead of using whatever boutique, high priced auto shampoo that only autogeeks would know about [as long as its basic and not containing waxes or in this case conditioners] then how good would coatings really be? Sure we're smart enough to follow certain rules, but what happens to the customer who pays top dollar for a coating and is bound to jack it up far worse than using something innocent like Shampoo Plus?

BTW, I intentionally used Shampoo Plus for a couple reasons.
1. I've switched back to a larger bucket than I used to use before. 5 gallon now, which allowed me to test a proper dilution of my choice, which in this case was 2oz. per 4 gallons. I wanted to test and see if it made a difference. Obviously the results weren't what I was hoping for, and that's too bad because quite frankly 2. I'm tired of using 3D Pink and I miss Shampoo Plus for all my bucket washing duties. I'll give Carpro Reset a solid look, among other choices. But it's not so important right now as I do more waterless wash with Wolfgang Uber for the most part.

@Bob. Am I allowed to use Wolfgang Uber? I say yes indeed. Same ballpark as Last Touch. Now if we were talking something like M135 or D115, Ultima Waterless Wash & Wax, D156, or any sprays that fall into this ballpark, then I wouldn't think of using them. But since Both Wolfgang Uber and Last Touch don't leave behind a protective layer of wax, sealant, or anything hydrophobic to write home about, then I consider them harmless and wholesome to use over Any coating or sealant without worrying about altering my good initial base layer of protection.

Just my 2 cents.



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[\QUOTE

@Bob. Am I allowed to use Wolfgang Uber? I say yes indeed. Same ballpark as Last Touch. Now if we were talking something like M135 or D115, Ultima Waterless Wash & Wax, D156, or any sprays that fall into this ballpark, then I wouldn't think of using them. But since Both Wolfgang Uber and Last Touch don't leave behind a protective layer of wax, sealant, or anything hydrophobic to write home about, then I consider them harmless and wholesome to use over Any coating or sealant without worrying about altering my good initial base layer of protection.

Just my 2 cents.



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I am clearly not bob, but I have been washing my Uber coated car with Uber in rinseless and waterless dilutions. I do not notice any impact on beading. The pictures below were from the snow yesterday, I am happy with the beading. This was 2 days after a waterless with Uber...


a0af27440eecdeb052c3c839da0d8723.jpg



3eb477da5fbc5abd96f22bb0f239252a.jpg



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Dmb5450 said:
I am clearly not bob, but I have been washing my Uber coated car with Uber in rinseless and waterless dilutions. I do not notice any impact on beading. The pictures below were from the snow yesterday, I am happy with the beading. This was 2 days after a waterless with Uber...

a0af27440eecdeb052c3c839da0d8723.jpg


3eb477da5fbc5abd96f22bb0f239252a.jpg
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^^^"Tiny Dancers"^^^


Rsurfer said:
Now these are what beads should
look like..tall, round and tight.
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^^^:iagree:^^^ ...Bob

SirTanon said:
k3x7qq.jpg


m27h4.jpg
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Hey Eldo, I'm sure this has nothing to do with the results but you might wanna dial back how much polish your using. It seems to me that you put some polish onto the pad and using your finger, work it in real good to pre-treat it. Then about 3 or 4 pea sized dots and your good to go, then after each panel, after cleaning it out with your pad brush, another 3-4 pea sized dots and onto the next panel. I just wonder if there was too much polish used, seems like it to me.

BTW that 20 year old paint looks great in those early pics!
 
Klasse Act said:
Hey Eldo, I'm sure this has nothing to do with the results but you might wanna dial back how much polish your using. It seems to me that you put some polish onto the pad and using your finger, work it in real good to pre-treat it. Then about 3 or 4 pea sized dots and your good to go, then after each panel, after cleaning it out with your pad brush, another 3-4 pea sized dots and onto the next panel. I just wonder if there was too much polish used, seems like it to me.

BTW that 20 year old paint looks great in those early pics!
Click to expand...

I don't believe in priming foam pads. I always like to start foam pads with a circle and by the time I'm done with the 1st section/test spot the pad has basically primed itself. From there on out I clean with either a tightly folded terry towel or the pad conditioning brush [or both, 1st towel then brush] after every section pass I make, meaning every time I pick the polisher up off the paint. It only takes a few seconds, and keeps the pad from ever reaching that point where they're overloaded with and fully clogged. They do wind up hitting that point where it's time to switch the pad out, but it's easy to see when it's time.

Not only is it neater [I don't have to clean polish off my fingers prior to starting] But I'm not a big fan of having polish/compound saturate the dead center of a foam pad for as long as I can help it. IMO The circle is a good start of keeping as much of the polish on the outer part of the pad for longer. That's also why I prefer doing a circle vs. an X on a new dry foam pad.

And thanks! I wish every inch of the car had that same kind of paint still on it. It's hard as a diamond and shines like glass. The passengers side is the same original paint, however the whole drivers side is a repaint and when inspected closely pales in every way to the factory paint.


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Eldorado, can you check the sheeting for us the next time you use D114 and nothing else. I get that it's beading. I'm curious how it sheets one any toppers have been removed. Maybe go strong on the D114.
 
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