Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax on glass okay?

[spazzz]

OK, so my car is coated with Gloss Coat. ONRW&W is not worth my time to use, period. It takes too much excessive rubbing on the paint buffing it out.
I used Optimum detailer/gloss enhancer for a drying aid and liked the looks but it wasn't as easy as Opti-seal.

I use the Opti-Seal as a drying aid every time I wash or rinseless. Is it needed for protection, who cares?

It works so stupidly simple as an aid it's the definition of K.I.S.S. and I get a fresh topper that flashes with no mopping.
I use my DP turbo when washing with a 2 bucket then use 1 eagle edgeless(with Opti-seal) to go over it.
When doing a rinseless I use 1 eagle edgeless also.
I am trying to keep the touching part to a minimum
Sure it's more expensive at 20+ for an 8 oz bottle but I don't care. I am on my 4th bottle in less than a year.
When it works so well, why fight it.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[yg1829]

OK, so my car is coated with Gloss Coat. ONRW&W is not worth my time to use, period. It takes too much excessive rubbing on the paint buffing it out.
I used Optimum detailer/gloss enhancer for a drying aid and liked the looks but it wasn't as easy as Opti-seal.

I use the Opti-Seal as a drying aid every time I wash or rinseless. Is it needed for protection, who cares?

It works so stupidly simple as an aid it's the definition of K.I.S.S. and I get a fresh topper that flashes with no mopping.
I use my DP turbo when washing with a 2 bucket then use 1 eagle edgeless(with Opti-seal) to go over it.
When doing a rinseless I use 1 eagle edgeless also.
I am trying to keep the touching part to a minimum
Sure it's more expensive at 20+ for an 8 oz bottle but I don't care. I am on my 4th bottle in less than a year.
When it works so well, why fight it.

Just my 2 cents.

Couldn't say it better my self. Opti seal is just to fun to not use it. The water just vanishes.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[steelwindmachine]

Okay, well for the timing being my vehicles aren't going to have a pro-level coating on them. They're going to get pro-detailed, polished and waxed. So, when they're handed back to me, I'll need to maintain the wax.

I thought maybe the ONRWW would help add luster to the existing wax and I could use the Opti-seal as a drying aid and though it's sealant capabilities would work too, but I'm apparently incorrect.

I would have to have the pro-detailer apply the Opti-seal BEFORE putting down the wax. Then I'd just maintain the cleanliness with the ONRWW.

Or, I don't have the pro-detailer use the Opti-seal, and I just use ONRWW to keep it clean and Opti-seal on trim and wheels. I don't see the point to wasting Opti-seal as a drying aid - I'll just use or find better drying towels (like the PFMs).

 

[pheerix]

I guess I'll keep beating a dead horse but if you're going through the expense of getting a paint correction that is the perfect time to get it coated. The coating itself is not that expensive and not that hard to apply. In fact you could just have the Detailer correct the paint and prep it for you to do the coating yourself. Gloss-coat is only like $70? It's apparently not much harder to apply than Opti-seal. Opti-seal is often referred to as Gloss-coat's "little brother" and it's application is very similar.

Pay once, cry once and be done. You'll just end up constantly worrying about the state of your LSP, constantly applying some kind of wax or sealant, and when you're ready for a coating you'll have to pay again for a paint correction and prep.

 

[oneheadlite]

Learning some interesting things I hadn't heard about Opti-seal (the points Guz mentioned).

Steelwindmachine - You mention having the car pro-detailed and waxed; thinking about it, maybe a sealant would be a better fit? They tend to have a longer service life than waxes. Not sure if there's a longer lasting option that would be best to start with if using Opti-seal as a drying aid/maintainer, or if it would necessarily matter?

Regarding Opti-seal. I'm with Spazz and yg1829 - the stuff to me is such a pleasure to use that I'm fine with it cutting down the life of the previous coat if I use it as a drying aid. The fact it's so easy to use just means I'll keep doing it each/every other time I wash.

Opti-seal has helped me "keep the faith" so-to-speak. With work, commute, family, I haven't had time to do a proper detail on either car. After a good wash and opti-seal treatment, the cars are left with both a really good shine/gloss and good water behavior. Helps cut down the frustration/mild depression that comes with not having your cars where you want them.

Also - to "wasting" it, I've probably grossly overused the stuff, and have only gone through half a bottle in maybe a year? Even with that much left, I still bought another bottle during the Presidents Day sale.

 

[pheerix]

Only thing I don't like about Optiseal is that it tends to attract a lot of dust. You can feel the static buildup as you buff it off

 

[steelwindmachine]

I am going to find out if my detailer will use a sealant.

If not, then I'll have him go as far as a polish/correction and then I'll apply the Opti-seal or other sealant. I need to investigate the process for Optimum's Gloss Coat.

 

[oneheadlite]

Gloss-coat is only like $70? It's apparently not much harder to apply than Opti-seal. Opti-seal is often referred to as Gloss-coat's "little brother" and it's application is very similar.

This is actually why I originally bought Opti-seal. From what I had read, it seemed to be good practice for Gloss-coat as far as watching for high spots and how it flashes. I've still got Gloss-coat sitting on the shelf waiting for when I have time for a full correction.

 

[The Guz]

There's no need to use the OS after every wash, once a month or out to 6 weeks is the plan I use on my moms car. Then of coarse you have the easiest option which is to apply a sealant,wash and reapply the sealant when you see the performance degrading. ONRWW,ONR, Opti Seal and spray wax are all easy products to use so don't get buried with options.

I agree.

After the car is coated there is virtually no maintenance, just the occasional iron decon and claying. Then all you need is ONR for washing that's it.

Very true with Gloss Coat.

OK, so my car is coated with Gloss Coat. ONRW&W is not worth my time to use, period. It takes too much excessive rubbing on the paint buffing it out.
I used Optimum detailer/gloss enhancer for a drying aid and liked the looks but it wasn't as easy as Opti-seal.

I use the Opti-Seal as a drying aid every time I wash or rinseless. Is it needed for protection, who cares?

It works so stupidly simple as an aid it's the definition of K.I.S.S. and I get a fresh topper that flashes with no mopping.
I use my DP turbo when washing with a 2 bucket then use 1 eagle edgeless(with Opti-seal) to go over it.
When doing a rinseless I use 1 eagle edgeless also.
I am trying to keep the touching part to a minimum
Sure it's more expensive at 20+ for an 8 oz bottle but I don't care. I am on my 4th bottle in less than a year.
When it works so well, why fight it.

Just my 2 cents.

Never had an issue using ONRWW on my dad's car that has gloss coat. In my opinion it makes a great maintenance wash for it. Although I only had an 8oz bottle of it. I never had an issue with it on glass either. But then again the glass is coated with opti-glass coating. Once a month I will use opti-glass clean & protect to maintain it and regular glass cleaner every ONR wash. The glass coating just makes it that much easier to wash and clean the glass.

I strictly use ONR (blue). I rarely use opti-seal as a drying aid. The reason for it is the beading is not as good ad gloss coat or even the sheeting. Overall opti-seal works well. Ech2o works even better. More gloss. Your black paint would look awesome. Just washed my uncles with McKee's 37 as a waterless wash and followed up with Ech2o.

Okay, well for the timing being my vehicles aren't going to have a pro-level coating on them. They're going to get pro-detailed, polished and waxed. So, when they're handed back to me, I'll need to maintain the wax.

I thought maybe the ONRWW would help add luster to the existing wax and I could use the Opti-seal as a drying aid and though it's sealant capabilities would work too, but I'm apparently incorrect.

I would have to have the pro-detailer apply the Opti-seal BEFORE putting down the wax. Then I'd just maintain the cleanliness with the ONRWW.

Or, I don't have the pro-detailer use the Opti-seal, and I just use ONRWW to keep it clean and Opti-seal on trim and wheels. I don't see the point to wasting Opti-seal as a drying aid - I'll just use or find better drying towels (like the PFMs).

First of all don't underestimate gloss coat because it is not a pro coating. It's a 3 year coating and with proper maintenance it can last much longer. It's a great coating that simply performs very well.

Second of all you are way overthinking this. Opti-seal works with either version of ONR. It is not necessary to use it as a drying aid. You don't need to use a drying aid at all. It all comes down to personal preference. The wax is not meant to be that durable. Just like a car shampoo with wax in it. It adds shine but not long term protection.

Thirdly go out and have fun. All of optimums products are designed to work with each other.

I guess I'll keep beating a dead horse but if you're going through the expense of getting a paint correction that is the perfect time to get it coated. The coating itself is not that expensive and not that hard to apply. In fact you could just have the Detailer correct the paint and prep it for you to do the coating yourself. Gloss-coat is only like $70? It's apparently not much harder to apply than Opti-seal. Opti-seal is often referred to as Gloss-coat's "little brother" and it's application is very similar.

Pay once, cry once and be done. You'll just end up constantly worrying about the state of your LSP, constantly applying some kind of wax or sealant, and when you're ready for a coating you'll have to pay again for a paint correction and prep.

Yeah folks are turned off by the high price of gloss coat for the amount in the syringe. But in the long run it's cheap. The easy application alone is worth the money. Of course it performs very well. Even the price the op posted of $450 is not that bad. I would definitely consider this option.

Learning some interesting things I hadn't heard about Opti-seal (the points Guz mentioned).

Steelwindmachine - You mention having the car pro-detailed and waxed; thinking about it, maybe a sealant would be a better fit? They tend to have a longer service life than waxes. Not sure if there's a longer lasting option that would be best to start with if using Opti-seal as a drying aid/maintainer, or if it would necessarily matter?

Regarding Opti-seal. I'm with Spazz and yg1829 - the stuff to me is such a pleasure to use that I'm fine with it cutting down the life of the previous coat if I use it as a drying aid. The fact it's so easy to use just means I'll keep doing it each/every other time I wash.

Opti-seal has helped me "keep the faith" so-to-speak. With work, commute, family, I haven't had time to do a proper detail on either car. After a good wash and opti-seal treatment, the cars are left with both a really good shine/gloss and good water behavior. Helps cut down the frustration/mild depression that comes with not having your cars where you want them.

Also - to "wasting" it, I've probably grossly overused the stuff, and have only gone through half a bottle in maybe a year? Even with that much left, I still bought another bottle during the Presidents Day sale.

If you haven't already done so, join the optimum car care group on facebook. You will learn even more and one has access to Yvan and Dann. Or listen to the optimum synergy podcast.

Only thing I don't like about Optiseal is that it tends to attract a lot of dust. You can feel the static buildup as you buff it off

Never noticed this. Although I apply it thin to the point where it flashes completely off on it's own.

I am going to find out if my detailer will use a sealant.

If not, then I'll have him go as far as a polish/correction and then I'll apply the Opti-seal or other sealant. I need to investigate the process for Optimum's Gloss Coat.

In short it's very simple.

This is actually why I originally bought Opti-seal. From what I had read, it seemed to be good practice for Gloss-coat as far as watching for high spots and how it flashes. I've still got Gloss-coat sitting on the shelf waiting for when I have time for a full correction.

It's really close with how they flash off and leveling high spots. You will enjoy it.

 

[tpr1634]

Opti seal nuff said, " I just dropped the mic "

 

[oneheadlite]

Guz - Thanks again for the info.

I'm with you - I haven't noticed undue amounts of dust build up, but I also either apply it so it flashes off on it's own or as a drying aid.

Unfortunately I'm not on Facebook, so here continues to be my main source. I have listened to a lot of the Optimum podcast though.

Regarding the ONR WW, I've only had a chance to do one rinseless with it so far. I don't remember having any trouble getting it buffed off (even in an unheated garage in MN winter), but I probably used Opti-seal when drying. My windows are plenty dirty right now, I'll use just some ONR WW at rinseless dilution to clean them and report back.

 

[steelwindmachine]

Thank you all for the input...

I haven't ordered any rinseless solution yet. I do still have almost 2 gallons of Meguair's Gold and two bottle of Griot's Car Wash to use/blow through, so I'm not totally dying on the vine here as far as car washing soap.

I stopped by to see my detailer friend Ryan today with my wife's Forester. Due to the age of the car, the fact it's not for show and I'm just looking to reduce the wash maintenance, but protect he suggested a hybrid detail job where he'd spot correct scratches. He hasn't delved into pro-coatings due to some rumblings about it causing issues with some clear coats and he tends to err on the side of caution and that the prep seemed considerable, but that may be old info. He's interested in maybe taking another look at what's out there.

If it were me and entirely my buying decision, I'd have the other pro do the Opti-Gloss Coat and detail for $450 on both vehicles and go from there. I think the $900 for the Pro is just a bit much for our wallets. Either way, I need to negotiate with my wife on what really makes the most sense for our situation. There will be compromise.

I don't think she's ever actually washed her car or even worked on it. Not that she necessarily wouldn't, but there has always been someone in her life who took care of it for her. So, she isn't directly familiar with what's involved to make a car clean beyond taking it to the automated wash or hitting it with a hose, soap, scrub and rinse. She also doesn't really have the experience of what a corrected and protected paint job looks like beyond what a new car off the dealer lot. So, no reference for potentially how much better the vehicle can look aside from the functional protection and prospective wash-time savings that modern sealants and/or coatings afford.

When it comes down to it, I'm trying to sort through the products and methods on the market to figure out which make the most sense for our situation, lifestyle, expectations and monetary sensitivities.

I'm gonna discuss this all with her over the weekend and see where we come out...

 

[steelwindmachine]

also, since I essentially have nothing beyond some buckets and towels, I'd need to spend several hundred dollars for the rest of the gear and product used in that TRC/Optimum Gloss-Coat video. Even if I stepped down to a Griot's DA, we're still talking a few hundred dollars. How do you justify dumping that much into stuff for two daily-drivers that are never garaged in an area that gets all seasons and we're not pensioners

Like wife answer answer: We'll decide to pay someone to do it or go for a non-coating solution that doesn't require the da, da washer, pads, and at least 3 coating related liquids, a garage or perfect weather to apply, etc.

 

[The Guz]

Guz - Thanks again for the info.

I'm with you - I haven't noticed undue amounts of dust build up, but I also either apply it so it flashes off on it's own or as a drying aid.

Unfortunately I'm not on Facebook, so here continues to be my main source. I have listened to a lot of the Optimum podcast though.

Regarding the ONR WW, I've only had a chance to do one rinseless with it so far. I don't remember having any trouble getting it buffed off (even in an unheated garage in MN winter), but I probably used Opti-seal when drying. My windows are plenty dirty right now, I'll use just some ONR WW at rinseless dilution to clean them and report back.

The podcast has some nice info. Dann and Yvan are at the rag company this weekend filming new stuff. They just posted up two live videos. One washing with regular ONR and one washing an escalade that has opti-coat pro with ONRWW. I will see if I can get permission from Dann, Yvan or Levi to host those videos and post them up. They have had some real good videos the past couple of days.

 

[vanev]

I'm putting together my kit for my first jump into the rinseless pool and I'm looking at the ONRWW and wondering whether or not it's fine to use on all the exterior glass?

Yes.

Just be advised that correct technique and towel management applies.
ONR, like any other product, is not a magic product.
It is, however, marketed by Optimum Technologies as a magic product.
So, if you have a dirty glass panel, and just spray on and wipe all over, you can expect results that are scratching and smearing, especially with that goofy Red Sponge they like to hype and sell.

Also, like most rinseless and waterless washes, you will probably find a need for higher than advertised concentration of product.
The 256:1, and even 128:1, are often useless in actual cleaning power, and in some cases are as effective as plain water at those dilution levels.

the intent is that I get the cars pro-detailed, polished, waxed and then I use the ONRWW on the whole car to maintain.
I'd also like to know if I could work in the Opti-Seal on the ONRWW?

what I was hoping to accomplish by using the ONRWW was to not have to chase it with a dedicated spray wax.
I'm hoping I could just wash with the ONRWW, then dry with the Opti-seal and be done.

My intention is to leave whatever good protection is already on the paint (wax, sealant), wash off the debris and leave a nice finish (by virtue of additional wax in ONRWW).

That can work.
Wash and waxes, and even most spray waxes, don't offer a great deal of protection.
They do offer protection, and it is worth the time and effort , but nothing like a coating.

As for your intention, that is fine.
Just consider that tires, wheels, and wheel wells may be the hardest and most time consuming areas of the vehicle to maintain.
This depending on the amount of brake dust and other contaminants that typically affect these areas.

I'm not ready to commit to the cost and inherent maintenance of a coating just yet.

Maintenance is mostly no different for a coating than the normal maintenance you would put into car care.
As for cost, it is always cheaper to coat the vehicle yourself, which is not that hard, and nothing to shy away from.

If it were me and entirely my buying decision, I'd have the other pro do the Opti-Gloss Coat and detail for $450 on both vehicles and go from there. I think the $900 for the Pro is just a bit much for our wallets. Either way, I need to negotiate with my wife on what really makes the most sense for our situation. There will be compromise.

When it comes down to it, I'm trying to sort through the products and methods on the market to figure out which make the most sense for our situation, lifestyle, expectations and monetary sensitivities.
I'm gonna discuss this all with her over the weekend and see where we come out...

Budget will always be the primary factor, despite the needs of the vehicle.
$900 is a fair price, but if you subtract the coating, then I would presume the cost is closer to $450 for both vehicles, thus $225 per vehicle.
This for a wash, decon, spot correction and wax for each vehicle.
That is a good deal and will allow you to carry on with your plan of basic maintenance with a waterless wash and wax product.

 

[steelwindmachine]

FYI It's $450/vehicle for Gloss Coat and $900/vehicle for Pro.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app

 

[The Guz]

Yes.

Just be advised that correct technique and towel management applies.
ONR, like any other product, is not a magic product.
It is, however, marketed by Optimum Technologies as a magic product.
So, if you have a dirty glass panel, and just spray on and wipe all over, you can expect results that are scratching and smearing, especially with that goofy Red Sponge they like to hype and sell.

Also, like most rinseless and waterless washes, you will probably find a need for higher than advertised concentration of product.
The 256:1, and even 128:1, are often useless in actual cleaning power, and in some cases are as effective as plain water at those dilution levels.

I've been using the big red sponge more almost a year and never had a problem with smearing, scratching or marring. Also never had an issue with it at it's standard dilution ratio. Same can be said for D114 and N-914 which has a similar dilution ratio.

Like all products proper use is key. So I agree with you there.

 

[tpr1634]

Never had a issue with the big red sponge other than the price, no issues with dilution ratio. Bam I dropped the mic again.

 

[BrutalNoodle]

So, if you have a dirty glass panel, and just spray on and wipe all over, you can expect results that are scratching and smearing, especially with that goofy Red Sponge they like to hype and sell.

^^^ Like negotiating a cease fire with napalm. :laughing:


The BRS is one of those products that's either, or. I don't think there's a middle ground with this one; you either love it or hate it. I'm in the latter camp. I tried washing my vehicles half a dozen time, and each time tossed the sponge aside and went back to microfibers/mitts. Just could not get the feel for the thing. Thought about slicing it in half (horizontally) to get a better feedback, but the darn thing just up and disappeared on me.

Agreed with smearing. For light duty maintenance, sure. But if the glass pieces had been splashed with the nasty stuff from the asphalt after a wet weather, it's best to grab something that packs a punch like Sonax Glass Cleaner. If one insists on a rinseless concentrate, then a product that leaves noting behind (I can feel nostrils flaring up every time that phrase dropped) N-914 @ panel wipe dilution packs a wallop.

 

[oneheadlite]

ONR, like any other product, is not a magic product.
It is, however, marketed by Optimum Technologies as a magic product.

To play devil's advocate, isn't that how most of the stuff we buy on here is marketed/hyped? :laughing:

Totally agree with what you say about how technique > all. I'm still new to rinseless washes, and last weekend did the RW that felt the best of any I'd done yet. I'm reluctant to say it was the wash in the bucket that made it so; I think it was just that this round I really focused on technique.