Claying headlights before polishing?

No excuses when detailing is concerned. Please show what products and tools you and your friend use to bring the Corvette headlights back to their former glory

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.... It was a fail. Everything this guy said turned out to be true.

Corvette lights are a nightmare. Please update us on your results and let us know about your experience.

The factory UV coating I removed was just slightly softer than tool steel. I went through about a dozen sanding discs. It would be faster to start with the most aggressive method first instead of at the other end of the spectrum. If it's your 1st set (which I'm safely assuming), plan on dedicating a few hours for the pair.


The 1000 grit couldn't even make a dent. Those headlights were crazy...

1st I tried sanding by hand, I immediately ditched that idea and hooked up to my polisher on speed 4.5. Nothing. Then speed 6, pass after pass... More and more... water and more water... Nada. This is midway, after several sanding cycles.

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And after many more... I threw in the towel.

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This is horrible. What an epic fail. Did all that for free + it cost me $30 + the stupid kit shorted me 1 of the 2 finishing discs. Man that was no good...
 
They're $1,800 new from the dealer.

Is this polycarbonate? I can't believe 1000 grit wouldn't cut polycarbonate. This almost seems like the hardness of glass, ceramic or mineral (i.e. Synthetic sapphire).


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As I stated earlier, nightmare. It would probably need to start at 500 grit and then about $50 worth of various level sanding discs.
 
I would agree that going more aggressive would be the way to go since 1000 is not enough.
 
I would agree that going more aggressive would be the way to go since 1000 is not enough.

Yes, try something like 600. I buy 3" wet dry discs in bulk now. Cheaper that way. I probably have a lifetime supply now, 50-100 per pack depending on the brand. I also do woodworking and cabinet making so they have cross-utility.


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I stay away from headlights not enough profit for the time and material.Sandpaper is not cheap and the public believes in that wipe on wipe off crap.Come to me in 4 monthsto take that stuff off prices double.The wealthy understand value, the rest of us look at the bottom line number.I got to get 100.00 to restore.Seams club does it for 30 bucks and a warranty.
 
I saw the results and my only insight is that you likely need to up your move to include using a drill and a full set of papers frokm 600 through 3000. I just came off a horrible set of 911 lights that were mainly an issue due to the past history of someone not sanding them properly and then simply coating them with spar varnish.

Key to headlights is to work your way up to about 3000 grit then polish them back. In this case, from what I saw, I probably would have hit them lightly with 600 on a lows speed with my drill, then worked them good with 1000, then 2500 and finally 3000. They would be hazy with 3000 but would polish back fine with some compound then polish.

I litterally just ordered a new Meg's kit from AG to replenish my supplies. I do most of my light needs by hand but the heavier stuff with a drill.
 
At this point I'm not convinced that 1000 grit disc could correct anything... I dunno, those headlights didn't budge even a bit. I'm going to try it on another set in order to ensure myself I didn't get a dud or something..
 
Corvette headlights especially that year or a pain in the ass to restore


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If I ever get anyone asking me about the headlights on their Corvette, I'm gonna cut them off and just say "NO" lol.

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The sealant in the heavy duty kit is a joke. No good

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The sealant in the heavy duty kit is a joke. No good

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Are you referring to the new headlight sealant in the revised kit? Or the old black bottle?

This is the new protectant in the revised heavy duty kit.

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Are you referring to the new headlight sealant in the revised kit? Or the old black bottle?

This is the new protectant in the revised heavy duty kit.

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I guess my kit is an older one in the black bottle. My mistake.

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Looks you will need to remove all the factory coating.

I think your best bet is to use 320 grit to remove all of the factory coating and then work your way up.

You could use 500 but it will take longer.

Sand dry 320>500>800, then wet 1000>2000>3000.

At this point you can spray clear coat, or compound, polish and then a coating.

The Griots mini polisher will work great for sanding and for the compound and polishing step if you use thin pads.
 
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