Car Pro

Expected behavior of a hydrophobic surface - high surface tension resulting in minimal contact area between water and surface resulting in water "beads".


Expected behavior of hydrophilic surface - low surface tension resulting in maximum contact area between water in surface resulting in a large sheet of water.

Perfect...thanks. It came up in reference to Gyeon Mohs+ with the topcoat Phobic being hydrophilic as opposed to Durabead whose topcoat Bead is hydrophobic. Old discussion quoted belwo but now that Gyeon is releasing Syncro, was kinda looking at info on 2-part pro-only products to find consumeris-version of the lines/offerings.

Looks like Syncro is a consumer-ish version of their Duraflex product...maybe?

As both product will be compared, let's start with a short comparison with Q² Mohs+

Some similaritys of both coatings:

Both of those coatings have comparable durability. Both are multilayer coatings, consisting of the same base-coat (Mohs) and 2 different top-coats. In both cases the top-coat is not a stand-alone coating and can’t be used as such. In both cases the top coat is meant to prolong durability and prevent the base coating from waterspots and lets it cure to it’s maximum abilities safe from chemicals and atmospherical influence.

The differences:

The main difference is the character of the top coat.
Q² Mohs itself is highly hydrophobic (still, not super-hydrophobic like Prime). We strongly belive, that Q² Mohs is a brilliant product and that it will remain a top notch coating for many years. It gives immense gloss, has great chemical resistance and durability. It’s also a superb base for multi layer coating systems.
Phobic applied over Mohs will change it’s character more in the hydrophilic direction. You’re not getting more beading than on bare Q² Mohs, rather a bit less. Still, the water sheets very fast. It has fantastic resistance against staining and pollution combined with very high self cleaning abilities. It adds gloss and depth to the finish.

Bead on the other hand, while applied over Q² Mohs, will change its character in a extremally hydrophobic direction. During the first 12 months it shouldn’t produce any sheeting at all! It very, very hydrophobic, much more than Q²Prime. It also prevents the base coat, but in a slightly different way, as it’s a totally different formula. It’s highly antistatic and much more smooth than Phobic.


THE MOST DURABLE HYDROPHOBIC EFFECT IN THE WORLD.

Q² DURABEAD is a professional set of ceramic automotive coatings for paint, dedicated to authorised detailers only. Containing our hardest Q2 MOHS coating and Q² BEAD top coating, it ensures the highest quality and an incomparable super-hydrophobic coating – probably the long lasting in the world!

SUPERB SELF-CLEANING ABILITY

In all of GYEON’s coatings, self-cleaning ability is very visible and apparent, but Q² DURABEAD exceeds all known standards in this area, possessing not only very strong hydrophobic ability but also being probably one of the most anti-static products for automotive paint, thus attracting much less dirt and dust in the first place.

SPECTACULAR & DURABLE BEADING

Q² DURABEAD is an ultra-advanced, super hydrophobic coating that provides beading that has not been seen before; we believe there is no other glass coating in the world which creates such a long-lasting beading effect. With a contact angle of up to 120" this coating upstages even the fantastic Q² PRIME and lasts much longer.

2 YEARS WARRANTY WITH Q² BEAD

It is recommended to apply two layers of Q² MOHS (three 3 layers is absolutely optimal) and then apply the Q² BEAD coating over the top of these. This process will guarantee a super-hydrophobic effect of water beading along with ultimate durability easily reaching up to 2 years. Like other GYEON coatings, Q² DURABEAD is resistant to any type of chemical with a pH value of between 2 and 11, so harsh acids and alkalis have little effect on this coating.
 
The Gliss - FAQ and more details

Here are some FAQ and details about the Gliss, this is something we worked in the past year, many detailers asked us for a top coat, something that excels the ceramic coat which applied already. from smoothness to hydrophobic contact angle. a coat which resist better water spots and has better anti static effect. yet not to use organic oils or waxes , while yet to have longer slickness compare to oily waxes or siloxanes sealants,(we will post soon comparison video to show how its durable). it wasnt easy to do and took us time, we hope we succeed and made it well, GLISS can be used as stand alone coat as well, for quick application cars. application is super easy as you saw maybe how we demo here at Sema . full dry time is shorter as well , ( by IR is super fast too)
SOME FAQ'S about Gliss :
-What Gliss means? Gliss in Franch means very slick surface.
-Is Gliss perform as sealant or a coat? its more a coat with much more durability against chemicals.
-Can it be used on top of Reload , Essence, Essence Plus ? No since it will not bond well over the surface.
-Can you use it on other coating? Probably yes , but we cant guarantee that, with our coatings , as Cquartz Cquartz UK , Cquartz Pro , and the Cquartz Finest Reserve it works perfect with higher contact angle hydrophobic.
-Can you use it as stand alone coat ? Yes its very easy to use and will bond well on bare paint.
-Do you need to use Eraser pre coat ? Only if the surface was waxed or sealed, will need to strip anything such as .
-Can we use Cquartz on top of Gliss ? No since it made to be a topper rather than primer.
-Can we use it over coated car which was done few months already ? Yes its even well recommended.
-Does it get crystallize ?? No , not meant to add hardness as one of its targets was to help protection from water marks. highly sio2 base coats weak point is water spots marking, this is to help protecting from it as well.
-Can we top the Gliss with Reload ? Yes but we dont see any reason why.
-Does Gliss attract dust over the surface? Gliss use inorganic oils to produce slickness , together with Anti static additives it will attract much less dust than most ceramic coat or top coats.
-How much the bottle contain and how many cars we can coat? 50ml with 2~3 average cars coating.
- Can i use TarX on the Gliss ? yes to some extended time , will not remove the coat.
- Durability ? we believe between 6 to 12 months , if well maintained using pH neutral shampoos.

If any of you guys has more questions we'll be glad to answer.

I just coated my truck in the beginning of October with CQUK, if I'm understanding these FAQ's correctly I should just wash the vehicle and use a product such as Eraser, then apply coating? It seems to state the product will not bond over Essence Plus

I thought maybe I should hit with Essence Plus prior to ensure the paint is very clean, then with Eraser, followed by application of Gliss.

What are you guys thoughts on what should be done?
 
Sounds like you will need to skip any of the Essence products in between the CQUK and the Gliss application.
 
Sounds like you will need to skip any of the Essence products in between the CQUK and the Gliss application.

I just worry about the paint being "dirty" since the coating is a couple months old. I don't want to polish off the UK but just make sure it's a clean slate for the Gliss to adhere to. I'm currently happy with the CQUK so maybe I should just skip the Gliss altogether.

It's more a concern of my buddy's truck and his obsession over the paint feeling slick and smooth. His truck was also coated in CQUK in September and a few weeks later he complained to me the paint doesn't feel as smooth as it did directly after coating. I was hoping this product may satisfy him in that aspect.
 
You can still IronX or IronX Soap, use TarX, wash with Reset and use Eraser to prep the existing coating so its clean enough apply the Gliss. I think that would provide more cleaning than the mild cleaners in Essence Plus would.
 
You can still IronX or IronX Soap, use TarX, wash with Reset and use Eraser to prep the existing coating so its clean enough apply the Gliss. I think that would provide more cleaning than the mild cleaners in Essence Plus would.

Thanks for your input, maybe I'll give it a whirl soon.
 
You can still IronX or IronX Soap, use TarX, wash with Reset and use Eraser to prep the existing coating so its clean enough apply the Gliss. I think that would provide more cleaning than the mild cleaners in Essence Plus would.

Maybe ad carpro Spotless to this and decon any waterspots. If it's not to dirty you can go with carpro trix that is a combo of ironx/tarx.

If your buddy want slickness maybe a wipe down after he washes with carpro Ech2o in 1:20 and 2-3oz of reload in a 32oz bottle and use destilled water for Ech2o.
 
Maybe ad carpro Spotless to this and decon any waterspots. If it's not to dirty you can go with carpro trix that is a combo of ironx/tarx.

If your buddy want slickness maybe a wipe down after he washes with carpro Ech2o in 1:20 and 2-3oz of reload in a 32oz bottle and use destilled water for Ech2o.

I'll give the Ech2o and reload a shot, I haven't seen or touched the truck since his observation. I have both products and will give this a shot as soon as I can. Much easier than applying a whole new product where it will need to stay dry for 12 hours, especially with wet and salty roads this time of year.
 
I'll give the Ech2o and reload a shot, I haven't seen or touched the truck since his observation. I have both products and will give this a shot as soon as I can. Much easier than applying a whole new product where it will need to stay dry for 12 hours, especially with wet and salty roads this time of year.

Directions say to keep dry for an hour, not 12 hours.
 
If it states that gliss won’t bond with essence, it will not matter if you use eraser. More than likely you won’t be able to level gliss and it will want to smear. This has happened to me in other situations. It’s no fun
 
It's more a concern of my buddy's truck and his obsession over the paint feeling slick and smooth. His truck was also coated in CQUK in September and a few weeks later he complained to me the paint doesn't feel as smooth as it did directly after coating. I was hoping this product may satisfy him in that aspect.
Gliss sounds like a perfect product to add slickness, but if you use Reload or Essence you will have to do a complete decon before applying Gliss.
Sounds like Gliss is what your Buddy needs.
 
Gliss sounds like a perfect product to add slickness, but if you use Reload or Essence you will have to do a complete decon before applying Gliss.
Sounds like Gliss is what your Buddy needs.

As we all know, most of us folks are basically all hounds chomping at the bit for that last bit of gloss, slickness, protection, and many of us would go to the ends of the earth on our beloved vehicles. :-)

While Gliss sounds like a nice product, I think we all can surmise that Gliss as well won't be the be-all and end-all product.

With that said, and for us Carpro or other Coating Fans, I'd reckon there will again come a point in time where another product, perhaps Reload, C2V3, a Gyeon product, etc would again be called into use.

It's inevitable, unless your vehicle resides inside a Glass Case.
 
I bought some Gliss and will put on my 4 cars this weekend ( if it spreads that far).
I also bought some WG 3.0 sealant so not sure which product on what car.

All cars bit different;
-5 year old Opticoat 2.0 topped with FK1000p .
-1 year old Opti Gloss Coat over Opticoat 2.0
-1 year Opti Gloss Coat on its lonesome and lastly
-No coating or sealant, mainly wash and wax products.

So my plan is to decon all 4 cars (i have some old Meguiars Deep Crystal paint cleaner that is prety good at lightly tidying up light swirls and scuffs), then using eraser/paint prep to doubly remove the waxes and Bobs my uncle.


So will then have to wait 6 to 12 months to see if Gliss isn't a miss.
 
Bump! Was tied up this weekend and couldn't try out Gliss. Anyone tried it yet?
 
I have some in my possession that I will be trying out sometime over the next 3 weeks. It's on the to do list.
 
Don't mean to get this thread off main subject, but...

Don't slam me for this question , but if your car has clear bra front end and then opticoat over the entire paint including the clear bra surfaces.
What car wash soap are you using?

When I had the clear bra and opticoat done , I have since washed it with Reset, which when I dried it off it didn't have that slick surface. I then did a coat of reload on it and of coarse it brought the slickness back only to be stripped or ? of the slickness once I washed it again with Reset.

So looking at this Gliss , I was wanting to try it, but it seems according to other posts its NOT to be used with or on top of Reload?

Back to my question what car wash soap are you using for regular washing the car.

It is garaged, and looks like the day I picked it up from having the clear bra / opticoat put on it, so would washing it with Reset in between regular washes about every 2-3 months and then do another Reload treatment or is that too much?

Thanks for any and all replies...
 
Don't mean to get this thread off main subject, but...

Don't slam me for this question , but if your car has clear bra front end and then opticoat over the entire paint including the clear bra surfaces.
What car wash soap are you using?

When I had the clear bra and opticoat done , I have since washed it with Reset, which when I dried it off it didn't have that slick surface. I then did a coat of reload on it and of coarse it brought the slickness back only to be stripped or ? of the slickness once I washed it again with Reset.

So looking at this Gliss , I was wanting to try it, but it seems according to other posts its NOT to be used with or on top of Reload?

Back to my question what car wash soap are you using for regular washing the car.

It is garaged, and looks like the day I picked it up from having the clear bra / opticoat put on it, so would washing it with Reset in between regular washes about every 2-3 months and then do another Reload treatment or is that too much?

Thanks for any and all replies...

Have you looked into Ech2o?
 
I have some in my possession that I will be trying out sometime over the next 3 weeks. It's on the to do list.

The reason I'm trying to see if using Gliss is worth it is because of the prep work. I've been using Reload and Ech2o as a waterless wash for over 6 months and applied CQuartz Pro about the same time.

I'm so anal about keeping my ride clean that I use Ech2o (1:10 with 1 part Reload) everyday and Reload neat about every 2-3 weeks. Now I will need to strip the Reload with Trix or TarX and do multiple Eraser/IPA wipe downs before applying Gliss.

CQuartz Pro is only 6 months old and I don't want to remove it, but is all this prep work worth it to apply Gliss?
 
I applied Gliss 3 days ago to my little Black Golf. It had Opti Gloss Coat applied about a year ago but the car lives outside 24/7 and is not that well looked after.
I did a wash with strong detergent and then used Paint Prep (same as eraser) . I then had to use some paint cleaner for some of the marks and scratches and occasionally some stronger cutting compound for the big marks. This probably thinned out or completely got rid of the Gloss Coat in parts ?

The Gliss was very easy to apply, great applicator with 4 disposable pieces of suede that you wrap around the applicator.
i used about 10ml in total so the 50ml will do a few cars (but Golf is quite little).

It definitely added a higher level of shine than the Gloss Coat, a bit fake looking I reckon, not deep like wax, but I have never used a sealant so I think it might be more like that, kind of mirror like is the best way to describe.

Overall, pretty happy, I wanted something to extend the life of the Gloss Coat and also replace it with a long lasting nano coating on the parts where I had to polish it away.
 
I applied Gliss 3 days ago to my little Black Golf. It had Opti Gloss Coat applied about a year ago but the car lives outside 24/7 and is not that well looked after.
I did a wash with strong detergent and then used Paint Prep (same as eraser) . I then had to use some paint cleaner for some of the marks and scratches and occasionally some stronger cutting compound for the big marks. This probably thinned out or completely got rid of the Gloss Coat in parts ?

The Gliss was very easy to apply, great applicator with 4 disposable pieces of suede that you wrap around the applicator.
i used about 10ml in total so the 50ml will do a few cars (but Golf is quite little).

It definitely added a higher level of shine than the Gloss Coat, a bit fake looking I reckon, not deep like wax, but I have never used a sealant so I think it might be more like that, kind of mirror like is the best way to describe.

Overall, pretty happy, I wanted something to extend the life of the Gloss Coat and also replace it with a long lasting nano coating on the parts where I had to polish it away.

Did you find it slick and is it anti static?
 
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