How best to negotiate with dealer for new car price ?

[Oz_TCH]

Wife wants to trade in her 2012 Camry Hybrid XLE for another new Camry Hybrid. She tried test driving the Rav4 but prefer another new Camry Hybrid, the 2019 Camry Hybrid XLE model.


I was thinking better to wait until October for the 2020 model. Also dealer would not give good price for trade in. I'm thinking to either sell old car privately or just give to my older son in college. He'll need a car this summer.


And the 3 options we want with the new Camry Hybrid XLE is the Navigation Package, Driver Assist package and Adaptive Headlights. Could careless about everything else.
So I was thinking, a good price would be aboot $3500 - $4000 off of the MSRP.

I'll will go in to Credit Union tomorrow and get a pre authorize financing.
Then go to dealer, we're not in any hurry to buy.


What you think ? try to get a deal for about $4000 off MSRP ?


That would be $35,234. Is that doable ?


Please advise. Thx.

 

[ClearVue18]

Wife wants to trade in her 2012 Camry Hybrid XLE for another new Camry Hybrid. She tried test driving the Rav4 but prefer another new Camry Hybrid, the 2019 Camry Hybrid XLE model.


I was thinking better to wait until October for the 2020 model. Also dealer would not give good price for trade in. I'm thinking to either sell old car privately or just give to my older son in college. He'll need a car this summer.


And the 3 options we want with the new Camry Hybrid XLE is the Navigation Package, Driver Assist package and Adaptive Headlights. Could careless about everything else.
So I was thinking, a good price would be aboot $3500 - $4000 off of the MSRP.

I'll will go in to Credit Union tomorrow and get a pre authorize financing.
Then go to dealer, we're not in any hurry to buy.


What you think ? try to get a deal for about $4000 off MSRP ?


That would be $35,234. Is that doable ?


Please advise. Thx.

I didn't negotiate when I got my wife's car. I just came in and wrote down the number I'm willing to pay and not a dime more. I don't care how you get to that number all I know you better get there 20 mins later deal done and out the door lol. Well I use to work for a dealer back in the day so I know the games. Lls.

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[lane5515]

Always buy at month end or quarter end when dealerships are trying to meet sales goals. Also, use edmunds website to figure out invoice pricing (at least pretty close). Don't ask what they will give you for your car, talk price difference between what you want for your car and the price you are willing to pay for the new car.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

I can tell you when I sold cars for Nissan back in 2007-2008, they probably don’t even have 4K in profit in these vehicles. I’d start their but don’t expect it. I’d do some research or even ask the dealer for invoice pricing and ask to see ACTUAL invoice.

Most new car dealers profits come from incentives from manufacturers. Go in during end of months as they’ll be trying to hit quota. If they won’t show you invoice stick to what you think is right price any thing less leave.

Do around 27th. If the don’t call you back by 31st with better offer then you’ve got their best offer. In 2008 a top of the line Altima with every option had around 1800-1900 profit over invoice. Sometimes if close to quota the will sell at invoice. I help a lot of friends buy cars if you have any questions feel free to PM me.


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[WindyCity]

To find the best deal try emailing and going to their online prices and ask them what their out the door price will be with all available incentives

To be honest with you there is not a whole lot of “dealing“ anymore with the Internet now

The days of haggling with a car salesman for hours over a few dollars is pretty much over

Financing is also contingent upon your credit score which will make a huge difference in rates and monthly payments


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[VISITOR]

i just go to sites like truecar and get pricing without having to haggle with the salesman. it's usually a few grand below sticker and little under invoice...

 

[FUNX650]

What you think ?
try to get a deal for about $4000 off MSRP ?

That would be $35,234. Is that doable ?

If the Dealership will honor Toyota’s current
$1,500 Customer Cash Back offer; then, IMO:
$35,234 is doable.


Bob

 

[Paul A.]

I attempt to research the cost of the car to the dealer. That starts with their invoice price.

I break down my negotiation into 3 separate deals...1.) The price I'll pay for the new car, 2.) The price they'll pay for my trade in, and 3.) My financing deal. All 3 are separate, independent negotiations. If we can't agree on deal #1 we never get to #2.

I also shop my trade in around locally to get a wholesale price. At least 3 used car dealers around town and get a business card from each with their best price to buy. When the new car dealer lowballs you, whip out the card and say ""this guy will give me $X".

Finally, shop around for the best "cost of using money". Find your best finance deal and bring it to the new car dealer. Sometimes the dealer can do better so listen to their financing also.

I know, I know...old school negotiation tricks but I don't like playing games. And when he/she gets up to "get approval" for your counters, amicably and politely ask for that person to come out and deal with you!

 

[Bruno Soares]

The last one I got I contacted 3 dealers in the area via email. Didn't give them a phone number. Used the emails from each to get the others to lower their price, they all kept lowering prices trying to win the business. Eventually got the dealer I wanted (which had the car in stock) to agree on the lowest price of the three. Came over that night with the deal already set so we just had to test drive the car and sign the papers.

 

[Oz_TCH]

I'm thinking they'll start at $39K, I'll say 30K. After some back and forth, hopefully, we meet in the middle.
I'm waiting for my credit union preapproval before I go in to the dealer (towards the end of the month).

I'll email a few dealers too.

 

[Daven75]

So no other advice besides what the others have said BUT with the newest camry's, a lot of people have complained about the transmissions being poor. Jerky, hunting for gears and not the best MPG. Just something to think about.

 

[ClearVue18]

Never heard of those issues before

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[Daven75]

Never heard of those issues before

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Since my GF has a 2014 camry I'm on a couple FB groups for camry's and people are complaining about these issues once and a while. Enoughf or me to not want a new one until it gets figures out.

 

[evo77]

I didn't negotiate when I got my wife's car. I just came in and wrote down the number I'm willing to pay and not a dime more. I don't care how you get to that number all I know you better get there 20 mins later deal done and out the door lol. Well I use to work for a dealer back in the day so I know the games. Lls.

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That sort of mind set doesn't always work.

My Pops just bought a 2019 Nissan Rogue at the end of 2018 and there were a few dealers that played hardball back. They did NOT give-in to the "here is my number, get there or else" attitude. In fact when my father walked away they did not pursue him. They had the take it or leave it approach or just tried to repackage the deal to some ridiculous manner. My father already had the check in hand and for most of them, they didn't care. In fact I think most of them hated that idea, because they couldn't use THEIR lender for financing.

The new car sales business is some real shady stuff and hasn't changed its stigma at all.

 

[FUNX650]

I'll will go in to Credit Union tomorrow
and get a pre authorize financing.

Then go to dealer,
we're not in any hurry to buy.

Even though your location is listed as
Northern Va., IMO: It shouldn’t take too
long to get to Davis, Ca. (But, then again,
you can always take the scenic route.)



Bob

 

[LSNAutoDetailingLSNAutoDetailing is verified member.]

Always buy at month end or quarter end when dealerships are trying to meet sales goals. Also, use edmunds website to figure out invoice pricing (at least pretty close). Don't ask what they will give you for your car, talk price difference between what you want for your car and the price you are willing to pay for the new car.

That’s pretty much it right there. The sales guy and sales manager have no idea of real cost on the car. It’s equally as difficult for them to buy a car at their own store.

You’re on the right track. 10% off MSRP is my top dollar. But I’ll always throw a number out that is 15-20% to start the volley. For my new Mustang we started at 20% off until a concession at 11% off then we hammered out the trade.

Go in educated. If asking on this forum is your fist step, sadly you have many to go.

Search You Tube, specifically Chevy Dude. Do your homework, use True Car... plot your desired on paper first and have a plan.

DO NOT buy if they are going over the amount you do not want to spend.

DO NOT pay for window tint, window etching, coatings, fabric coatings, door etchings, maintenance plans (not warranty). Etc.

Whatever means they use to get to the price you want to pay is acceptable. You can’t negotiate 20% off and still expect a $1500 rebate. They will use whatever to get to the number.

Have your math done ahead of time. The finance guy is a SHARK too! He will put all kinds of things into the bottom number. I caught them trying to add stuff in.

Go to dealer rater and look up the ratings for the dealership and the sales staff. Chose a sales person and Make an appointment.

Have an a, b & c vehicle picked out.

Do your home work. Negotiations are an art and skill, not a fight. Be prepared to walk away.



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[Wknd Dtlr]

Here's how I've done it. I haven't needed financing, but when I helped my son who did need financing here's how I approached it.

1. Tell them all you want to know is the "out the door price difference" between the car you want and the car you are trading. Keeps all the nonsense to minimum. I tell them I don't care what they charge for the new car, what they give me for the trade, what other "fees" they throw in - just tell me the amount of money I need to come up with to drive away in the car. Compare that number to your other offers.

2. If financing, do this separately so you can compare apples-to-apples. If you combine these two steps your true costs get convoluted.

3. You may have to do some math if one shop offers a lower price but higher financing so you can determine true cost of ownership. Do you belong to a credit union through your job or otherwise?

Good luck!

 

[VISITOR]

That sort of mind set doesn't always work.

My Pops just bought a 2019 Nissan Rogue at the end of 2018 and there were a few dealers that played hardball back. They did NOT give-in to the "here is my number, get there or else" attitude. In fact when my father walked away they did not pursue him. They had the take it or leave it approach or just tried to repackage the deal to some ridiculous manner. My father already had the check in hand and for most of them, they didn't care. In fact I think most of them hated that idea, because they couldn't use THEIR lender for financing.

The new car sales business is some real shady stuff and hasn't changed its stigma at all.

agreed. when i bought my car i had the price in writing from one dealership which was $500 under invoice. i went to another dealership and looked around and when the salesman came and we talked about pricing, he didn't budge even after i showed him the price the other dealership gave me. i asked if he would beat and/or match it and response was something like, "no, you're better off getting it over there" and started walking away...

 

[Oz_TCH]

got an offer that looks pretty good.

MSRP: $39,144.00
Your Exclusive Truecar Buying Service Price: $33,024.00
Processing Fee: $689.00
Sales Tax (VA): $1,496.55
DMV Fees (VA): $73.75



what's processing fee ? dealer add on profit ?

 

[dcjredline]

The worst car accidents happen on the showroom floor. My advice is to go 2-4 years used. Let someone else take the 25% depreciation that day and the other 15% over the next 3 years.