Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN

Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN

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Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?



My sister-in-law's hood appears to be suffering from severe oxidation or possible clear coat failure.

This looks like the point of no return for me but I would like a 2nd opinion please.

If it can be fixed, what would be the recommended fix for this?

c5de7f3f6214bbee4f673c0e0afbaa5f.jpg


dd3b2314b2565de7a3b376af187038e4.jpg


f7bce7411ceb530fcd5217c0ec77f6e7.jpg




:buffing:
 
Looks pretty bad. Perhaps Optimum clear coat restorer would help. Looks like AG doesn’t sell it though. Unless I’m missing it.

You can try compounding and you may get lucky.......Perhaps it was resprayed with single stage paint.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Looks pretty bad. Perhaps Optimum clear coat restorer would help. Looks like AG doesn’t sell it though. Unless I’m missing it.

You can try compounding and you may get lucky.......Perhaps it was resprayed with single stage paint.
Click to expand...
Dude, you are awesome brother. Maybe it was resprayed with single stage I have some Meguiar's #7 and 3D One as well.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Looks like severe oxidation. A test spot will tell you what you will need. Do you have a polisher? Are you a detailer?
 
I've seen oxidized clearcoats worse than that come back.

It just depends upon the history of the car or more specifically - the history of the paint.

Has it been chopped on by a caveman detailer all it's life or just neglected? This will in part determine how much paint is there or NOT there.

You might get lucky but you'll never know what you can do until you try.

I'd hit it with BLACKFIRE One Step, a foam cutting pad and the BEAST.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
I've seen oxidized clearcoats worse than that come back.

It just depends upon the history of the car or more specifically - the history of the paint.

Has it been chopped on by a caveman detailer all it's life or just neglected? This will in part determine how much paint is there or NOT there.

You might get lucky but you'll never know what you can do until you try.

I'd hit it with BLACKFIRE One Step, a foam cutting pad and the BEAST.


:)
Click to expand...
Just neglected, and probably ran through the swirl o matic a few times. I can recall when she first bought the car. As I can recall I have been the only one to detail it and I haven't done any paint correction on it. Thank you so much for your input on this! I don't know what I'd do without the forum! I will probably have to use my rotary as I don't have the BEAST right now, but I'll post some pics up when I get done! I'm sure it will turn out awesome! Thanks again brother!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Rsurfer said:
Looks like severe oxidation. A test spot will tell you what you will need. Do you have a polisher? Are you a detailer?
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Roger that! Yes I am a detailer / weekend warrior / hobbyist. I currently have a Mac Tools battery operated rotary, of course looking to add to the collection in the future. Thank you so much for your input!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
i think it can be done.
i have restored worse than that with one step

View attachment 69694

this is a toyota corolla 2000, neglected, repainted and heavy oxidized

used a rupes mark III 15mm, yellow rupes pad and sonax perfect finish

:xyxthumbs:
 
Red&BlackJacob said:
Nice!!! Products added to the cart! I cant wait to click checkout when I get paid! I'm exited now!
Click to expand...

If you get the quart of the BF One Step - it's like gettig a second 16 ounce bottle for 10 bucks.

The best way to buy it is the 32 ounce bottle. This is why you never see me recommend the 16 ounce bottle. Plus once you use it once, the 32 ounce bottle won't last long, it's really good stuff.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
If you get the quart of the BF One Step - it's like gettig a second 16 ounce bottle for 10 bucks.

The best way to buy it is the 32 ounce bottle. This is why you never see me recommend the 16 ounce bottle. Plus once you use it once, the 32 ounce bottle won't last long, it's really good stuff.


:)
Click to expand...
Up sell APPROVED! Revising cart now! Thanks Mike!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Mike Phillips said:
If you get the quart of the BF One Step - it's like gettig a second 16 ounce bottle for 10 bucks.

The best way to buy it is the 32 ounce bottle. This is why you never see me recommend the 16 ounce bottle. Plus once you use it once, the 32 ounce bottle won't last long, it's really good stuff.





:)
Click to expand...

Red&BlackJacob said:
Up sell APPROVED! Revising cart now! Thanks Mike!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...

Coming from a Pro!!:props:
 
It may come back but won't last. My '04 TJ had paint like chalk and would polish up decent but only last for a few months before going back to chalk.
 
Mike Phillips said:
I've seen oxidized clearcoats worse than that come back.

It just depends upon the history of the car or more specifically - the history of the paint.

Has it been chopped on by a caveman detailer all it's life or just neglected? This will in part determine how much paint is there or NOT there.

You might get lucky but you'll never know what you can do until you try.

I'd hit it with BLACKFIRE One Step, a foam cutting pad and the BEAST.


:)
Click to expand...
Mike,

I've purchased all Items and more mentioned in this thread. I even bought a forced rotation DA. I'm going with the Lake Country Force Hybrid 5.5 inch pads.

My question is, should I hit the panel with the cutting pad and then refine with the polishing pad?

Should I do a test spot with just the cutting pad and then a test spot with the cutting and polishing pad and see what results are best then go with that combination?

Also I was thinking of adding an additional layer of protection with the 3D Cherry wax, a wax designed for darker colors. What are your thoughts on this?

I won't forget to count my section passes.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Red&BlackJacob said:
My question is, should I hit the panel with the cutting pad and then refine with the polishing pad?

Should I do a test spot with just the cutting pad and then a test spot with the cutting and polishing pad and see what results are best then go with that combination?
Click to expand...

Always do a test spot with your least-aggressive combo. Then work up from there.

You could start heavy and be satisfied with your work, but what if a lighter approach does the same thing? You would be removing more clear than necessary. Make sense?
 
PaulMys said:
Always do a test spot with your least-aggressive combo. Then work up from there.

You could start heavy and be satisfied with your work, but what if a lighter approach does the same thing? You would be removing more clear than necessary. Make sense?
Click to expand...

Yes that's right. Totally legit answer man. "Use the least aggressive pad / product to get the job done", as I've heard Mike say. I was blinded by the severity of the panel to be worked on. Ha ha ha, I was thinking, "Let's bomb the crap out of it!" Ha ha ha now I won't forget. Thanks brother!
 
Red&BlackJacob said:
Yes that's right. Totally legit answer man. "Use the least aggressive pad / product to get the job done", as I've heard Mike say. I was blinded by the severity of the panel to be worked on. Ha ha ha, I was thinking, "Let's bomb the crap out of it!" Ha ha ha now I won't forget. Thanks brother!
Click to expand...

Chances are your instincts are correct. But why guess? :)
 
Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN said:
Mike,

I've purchased all Items and more mentioned in this thread. I even bought a forced rotation DA. I'm going with the Lake Country Force Hybrid 5.5 inch pads.

My question is, should I hit the panel with the cutting pad and then refine with the polishing pad?

Should I do a test spot with just the cutting pad and then a test spot with the cutting and polishing pad and see what results are best then go with that combination?
Click to expand...

Normally I practice and preach,

Use the least aggressive process

But from the appearance of the paint on this car and knowing the history

reallybadpaint_01.jpg



I'd jump right to a compound and a cutting pad, even a FIBER cutting pad. If the fiber pads or even the foam cutting pad leaves any micro-marring or pad haze, you can always clean it up with a less aggressive foam pad and product.




Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN said:
Also I was thinking of adding an additional layer of protection with the 3D Cherry wax, a wax designed for darker colors. What are your thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

I'd say go for it. I'm a fan of topping, even wrote an article about it years ago. Actually back in 2011. In the article I share the "formula" I used to use back when I detailed full time AND before all the cool brands and products were invented that we use today.


Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping

An early car wash and detail shop
SimonizeModelT.jpg


An early auto repair shop that offers detailing
SimonizeModelAm.jpg





Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN said:
I won't forget to count my section passes.
Click to expand...


I hope you find counting out your section passes when buffing out entire cars saves you time.


:dblthumb2:
 
Also....


If it's not too late - tape-off the hood like this and then buff out just one side.

reallybadpaint_02.JPG



If you can save the paint, the before and after difference will be POWERFUL. Use this picture to market YOU and your business.


If you can't save the paint, at least you tried. You never know what you can do until you try.

Caution: Don't buff directly on the tape line.

Also - cover the other half of the hood with an old beach towel so you don't get splatter on it. Just the act of wiping off splatter from severely neglected paint will improve it and ruin your "before" pictures.



See these articles,

The LINE ---> How to avoid the line!

FlexVideo005.jpg






The power in the after shots is created in the before shots



Before
1960Ranchero01.jpg


One half covered and taped-off
1960Ranchero02.jpg


Before and after results
1960Ranchero03.jpg


After
1960Ranchero06.jpg






:)
 
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