Tell everyone one of your best detailing secrets!

Garden Sprayers are superb applicators for APC and undercarriage spray in wheel wells. The wand allows great control.
 
Elbow grease! Nothing beats commitment and hardwork!

Had great results by hand, expecting to get even better results with the DA when it gets here.
 
I'm not willing to give up many secrets but I will let go of a couple.

A 2" Rubber Maid varnish brush makes the best interior dusting brush. Go with Rubber Maid because it's the cheapest and holds it's shape better than any other brush I have tried.

Rather than using bug and tar removers the best thing to do for bugs is allow your car wash soap to dwell and give it time to soften bugs. A good QD or Rinseless Wash makes for a good alternative to solvent based bug removers. Clay is good also if you plan to apply LSP afterwards.

A good stiff bug sponge makes a great "poor man's carpet extractor". It agitates the fibers without being harsh like a scrub brush. Works great on fabric too.

I use the Laitner Wheel Spoke Brush as a leather cleaning wand. Soft enough not to damage the leather, versatile enough to get into all the tight spots.

One more. Buff with your shirt off to attract maximum attention. :buffing:
 
MobolWerks said:
I wonder just what Texas Pete's could clean??? It certainly could have some cleaning power - internally anyway:)
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If you have some Texas Pete and a Penny (as in one cent) laying around...try it and see. ;) If you have some nice coins that you want to clean up, this is the trick. Of course, some other tarnished/dirty metals will react much the same way.

Something for those of you that detail out of a fixed location; Use different colored buckets labeled for your different kinds of Micro Fiber and terry towels. I have 4 buckets that my towels go in - 1 for High Quality MF's that are only used as QD'ers or "buffers" (and the glass cleaners), 1 for wax/polish removal MF's, 1 for general purpose MF's and those that are too dirty to be used elsewhere, and 1 for terry's (all ~200 of them are the same to me.)
What this achieves is that when you get a bucket full, you can wash your "set" of towels together and not have to worry about the high quality ones getting wax in them, or the wax removal cloth's getting a piece of trash stuck in it from your lower end towels.

Maybe that's too D.O., but I don't like my microfibers touching each other if they aren't in the same group.

DLB
 
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.HARD WORK
 
DLB said:
What this achieves is that when you get a bucket full, you can wash your "set" of towels together and not have to worry about the high quality ones getting wax in them, or the wax removal cloth's getting a piece of trash stuck in it from your lower end towels.

Maybe that's too D.O., but I don't like my microfibers touching each other if they aren't in the same group.

DLB
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I thought I was alone on this one! I now have a bunch of general purpose MF towels because my wife decided to wash all MF towels together one day. :eek: Some of the towels happened to be some that I used around my garage and had a little grass embedded along with other chemicals and grime! Now I sort them for her when I need them washed.
 
I typically use Barkeeper's Friend to clean exhaust pipes. It's amazing on stainless steel, but also works well on any metal surface. As always, do a small test area when using it for the first time, but I have never had any issues.

And Mike: It looks to me like you *do* have a pantry full of peanut butter. ;-P Although that's the low fat stuff, which probably contains less vegetable oil...
 
Crisco looks even better than wax does on paint work:laughing:...

At least that is what Sal Zaino once told me - True story

In all seriousness: There are no short cuts to perfectly polished paint....
 
Secret - Autogeek has a lot of good products...
 
DLB
Senior Member

I like your swirl remover.
 
8 once poli-seal + 1 once opti-seal= extra protection from poli-seal

I use this to buff and seal all exterior glass and smooth plastic parts, it works phenominally to clean any and all stains on the plastic trim around windows/windshield, plastic mirror housing's ect ect...

PB's trim restorer for all the textured plastic, buffed off after 30+ min soak time to bring back the trim...

Try um... nothing beats em yet
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
If I had a jar of peanut butter for every time I've posted the reason why peanut butter is used to remove polish and wax residue I would have a pantry full of peanut butter...
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The crunchy is tough to get out of nooks and crannies. Don't ask... :o

I discovered by accident ONR makes bedliners look new. No matter how much I scrubbed or what APC I used bedliners still looked dingy. If someone's got to walk on 'em, especially in the rain, I don't want to dress them. I spilled some ONR mix on a tailgate liner and when I wiped it up I was amazed!

One I've appropriated from a participant on another Forum, AA Tire Foam isn't so hot on tires, IMO. It works great on underhood pads, blackens 'em up and has some real nice cleaning properties.

Around the house: since Johnson Wax discontinued Jubilee kitchen and appliance wax I've been looking for a replacement to no avail. UQW works primo... nice on mirrors and windows too.

TL
 
If you have alot of baked on bugs or splatters on your front bumper or windshield, take a water soaked beach towel and lay it flat on the effected area 20 minutes prier to rinsing the car for a wash. The water will soak into the bug leavins and soften them up for quick and easy removal. I have been doing this for years to remove bugs from my motorcycle and plastic faceshields on my helmets.
 
Having my detailing products shipped to my work address and smuggle them home!

Some good tips here though!

UQW on windows....I used UQD but it made the windows streak a lot.

I did use M205/polishing pad on glass with bad water spots that clay wouldn't touch and they turned out awesome.
 
Here's a secret a TON of people will get good use out of.

If you use the Meg's twins, 105/205, and you're having a hard time removing M105 from paint after polishing, put a couple of drops of M205 on your pad along WITH the 105 and polish. It makes the 105 MUCH easier to wipe off, reduces dusting a bit and gives 105 a longer work-time.

Turtle-wax Bug and Tar remover on a microfiber towel has been the best bug-gut removal product I've used to this date, thanks to John (VR8) for both of these tips. They do work.
 
Mike Phillips said:
The Peanut Butter trick is actually a trick that misses the mark...

Somehow, somewhere, someway someone posted about using Peanut Butter to remove polish and wax residue and the post spread from there... it continues to this day.

Here's the skinny...

If you have an open jar of peanut butter that's been used, usually you'll see some clear liquid pooling on the top of the peanut butter, this is vegetable oil, it's the vegetable oil in the peanut butter that helps to break-up and dissolve polish and wax residue and also turn faded trim a darker color which will also act to mask the problem.

Here's an old home-remedy for removing gum out of hair, which is a problem that sometimes happens to little kid, or how to get chewing gum out of carpet which is a problem usually caused by little kids, take and work some vegetable oil into the gum and it will act to dissolve it so instead of being a difficult, medium to remove it will break-up and then can be pulled out of or off of whatever it's stuck too...

If I had a jar of peanut butter for every time I've posted the reason why peanut butter is used to remove polish and wax residue I would have a pantry full of peanut butter...

pantryfullofpeanutbutter.jpg
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