CarPro Innovative Nano Coats

[Marc08EX]

Meghan, I've been asking you guys for this for at least 6 months! I'm glad you finally chose to stock it. This is undoubtedly the future in paint protection. I use both the Opti Coat and the CQuartz and love them both. I started using Aquartz and even in spite of it being a PITA to apply, it was a great coating. Cquartz blows it away for ease of application. It is temperature dependent on curing, but if one respects the cure time, they will have a fabulous finish. The only drawback is for people who want to play with different waxes all the time. You really should not top either OC or CQ. Thanks again for carrying it.

Since you've had experience with both Cquarts and Opti-coat, which is better?

 

[indiej1]

I read up on this line on the AG website. It seems like they are the only people who are concerned with ferrous metals on/in my paint. Am I missing something (not my first game in left field) or is this a new thing?

Finish Kare and Sonax also have their decontamination systems.

 

[Avi@CarPro]

Thank you for the nice welcome,
excuse me for my poor english...

as you see , there are few customers in the US who already used are products, and i hope they will share there experience with guys here. (thank you Richy)
we try to show different concept in our products.
each and every item is different from any existed competitors.
we mainly focus on inorganic materials, we barely produce or use organic oils or petroleum solvents. all our products are non alcohol base or carrier liquids!!! Cquartz as well , this is very important point! all are low VOC , (for the CA customers)

about the ironx, this is already became routine product step in Europe.. and we do believe it will happen in the US as well.
ironx dissolve iron contaminants that clay cannot remove, less possible to marr the paint while claying, longer life for the clay as well, faster and easier working on the car cleaning.

here is latest post from our dealer in NetherLand (thank you Tim) who just been posted in his forum i just translated it from Dutch (thanks 2 google)... :

Iron.X has in recent months has revolutionized the world of detailing and rightly so! To date, there are mostly cars with dirty wheels and spur or rust addressed and that may give the impression that Iron.X normal and well maintained vehicles may have less value, is not true!

This week was a white Opel Insignia OPC program, a well maintained car that is also not along the track. The car is used for normal commuting and is not parked in the vicinity of heavy industry and railroads.

After the car was washed, there was not actually all that much on. Just behind the wheel arches were black-brown dots to see. The car itself did not feel overly harsh, but Iron.X is relentless and has more than clearly demonstrated that the car was still heavily contaminated with iron oxide.

After washing and drying the car, Iron.X made. Iron.X need to be sprayed but thin. The gel ensures it stays in place and properly work. For the whole car is here used about 120ml:

After half a minute there was already clear in color, Iron.X reacts with metal particles:

Everywhere, absolutely everywhere came forward. It looks like a dye tablet that as a child was to betray plaque where there was, while you are conscious of the fact that you have brushed your teeth well:

As with all cars the most polluted back. This is due to vacuum operation while driving. It also shows that you immediately so while driving iron oxide pollution in your car is:

Simply rinse after the soak and the car was ready to clay:

Iron.X has done an excellent job. The visible (and invisible) dots were gone, and turn the clay was remarkably smooth. During the clay there was certainly based pollution (tar spots, tree resin, etc.), but it was remarkably few. Iron.X help you so contact arm to remove dirt on your paint, your work is not only thorough, but also saves you time and your next steps, you can safely run!


cheers
Avi

 

[HeavyMetal]

Avi,

A couple questions about CQuartz. First, if I get a scratch or scuff in a panel and repair, can I simply polish out that area and then re-coat or do I have to polish the entire panel to get rid of the old CQuartz. In that same vein, 2 or 3 years down the road when the CQuartz coating is degrading, how heavy do I have to polish so I can recoat. Can I use a light polish like Menz PO85RD or must I use something more aggressive?

Last, I'd love something like this for the big bay windows and glass sunporch in our house. They're a real PITA to clean. Are you gonna come out with something?

 

[indiej1]

this is probably one in your lineup that's best bought by the gallon

nice to see you here in AG

 

[James K]

I have been wanting to try the Iron X, PERL, and Reload. I have a shopping cart on another site that I was going to order next week. Now I can wait! Thanks!!!!!

CQuartz looks like amazing stuff, but I am an LSP junkie.

 

[MonoPed]

IronX looks amazing! Would love to see a full write up on the process!

 

[SeaJay's]

That is awesome. I've been wanting to try out both iron x and cquartz

 

[Avi@CarPro]

Avi,

A couple questions about CQuartz. First, if I get a scratch or scuff in a panel and repair, can I simply polish out that area and then re-coat or do I have to polish the entire panel to get rid of the old CQuartz. In that same vein, 2 or 3 years down the road when the CQuartz coating is degrading, how heavy do I have to polish so I can recoat. Can I use a light polish like Menz PO85RD or must I use something more aggressive?

Last, I'd love something like this for the big bay windows and glass sunporch in our house. They're a real PITA to clean. Are you gonna come out with something?

Hi,
first thing... Cquartz is NOT 100% scratch proof!!! , we dont promise that and its doesnt exist.
for repair the scratch , you can do only spot repair , no need the whole panel , you can start with 85rd , white pad with rotary, DA wont remove it. if it doesnt help, you can use more aggressive polish , after 2~3 years ,p2000 compound with rotary will remove the cquartz. we advise customers to maintain each 3 months with reload... it will keep the cquartz and recover water repellent..

IronX looks amazing! Would love to see a full write up on the process!

i guess you will see some post here soon, but no need special full write up, its realy easy as you see in these pics above.

 

[richy]

Finish Kare and Sonax also have their decontamination systems.

Yes, they do but they are not the same in several regards and not as good IMO. I bought the Valu Guard system vs the Finish Kare based on the research I did. They are nasty chemicals to work with for starters. They also take a lot of time to go through the steps. At then end of it all, they just don't work as well as they should. Not so with IronX. IX is a one step, spray on and let dwell system that works well and in a few minutes rather than much longer. The IX soap is a great idea and should be used as a maintenance product, especially if you regularly battle fallout or rail dust from your location. Avi's products are ahead of their time and must be used to be appreciated. When you do use them, you will see why people rave about them.

Avi,

A couple questions about CQuartz. First, if I get a scratch or scuff in a panel and repair, can I simply polish out that area and then re-coat or do I have to polish the entire panel to get rid of the old CQuartz. In that same vein, 2 or 3 years down the road when the CQuartz coating is degrading, how heavy do I have to polish so I can recoat. Can I use a light polish like Menz PO85RD or must I use something more aggressive?
I can help you here although I'm sure Avi will contribute as well. I had put it on my old FX35 and had got a stone chip on the highway that took out a little chip of paint. (No, CQ is NOT a magic bullet and may minimize stone chips but won't eliminate them). So, I buffed the area with M205 if I recall and then filled the chip. I let it harden for a day and then went over the area with more CQ. I deliberately overlapped into the surrounding area that had already been covered. There were no issues whatsoever. After curing, the area looked great and you could not tell that a "touch up" had been made.
As far as taking it off after a few years, 85rd will probably do it as long as you don't use too mild a pad. Remember it's the combo of pad and polish and not just the polish. The big thing to making CQ's application successful is to have a squeaky clean surface prior to application. I should probably do a new thread on this to make sure people see it. I will. Look for it.

Since you've had experience with both Cquarts and Opti-coat, which is better?

Last, I'd love something like this for the big bay windows and glass sunporch in our house. They're a real PITA to clean. Are you gonna come out with something?

I'll address your windows first. If a product like DG Rain repel is not doing it for you (It's a stupid-easy product to use and is very effective although does not come anywhere near the long, long term protection you will get with CQ) then, yes, CQ would most definitely work. Like I stated above, in order for it to be truly successful, proper surface prep is paramount. Look for my thread on that.

Now for the $1,000,000 question...they are both amazing products. Only long term testing is truly going to show the longevity answer 100%. But, there are some similarities and differences that need to be highlighted. I started using AQ first. I was blown away by the finished result but application was difficult. CQ is light years ahead of its former self in that regard. Having said that, CQ is temperature dependent for application. What I mean by that, is that if you are in Florida and the weather is 85°, it will go on and cure within 10 minutes or so. If you are in the Michigan area like I am, you need a heated garage that needs to be a minimum of 50°. The cure time at that temp is like 25 minutes. If in doubt, leave it on 5 minutes longer, it can't hurt. Other than that, there are no issues. The surface must be squeaky clean for both products, so there's no fundamental difference there.

Both products repel water like crazy. Using a power washer to rinse, the CQ sections yielded tiny, minuscule beads that took nothing to remove. The OC section sheeted it better with less to remove. That was using a power washer to rinse. When I sheeted it with the hose, both surfaces shed most of the water. I shot a video of this and in fact have shot several videos about both on youube. If you do a search on youtube for CQ or CQuartz you will see mine (richyrichrocks) and others too.
The thing I don't like about OC (or now Opti Guard for the consumer version) is their delivery system. It comes in a syringe. It has a threaded end with a black stopper for shipping. It also comes with a blue tip that has a tiny hole in the end. I have found the syringe to be sticky and you have to push on it hard to make the product come out. More than once when the syringe broke free of being sticky, I shot some OC across the garage. Not cool. I followed the advice and cut the hole at the end of the blue tip bigger. It did not help. It's not the end that is causing the problem but the syringe itself. In my humble opinion, if Optimum were to change their delivery system to a bottle with a controlling dropper end like what Avi uses, they'd have a product that was easier to use.
I had applied both CQ and OC to my old FX35. I sold it to my next door neighbour so I can keep an eye on it for the next few years. He is blown away by the coating BTW, and his brand new Lexus is going to get done by me soon. He laughs that his 7 year old Infiniti has a nicer, better protected finish than his new Lexus...hehehehe. This will allow me to see down the road how both hold up in comparison to each other. I know I put them on correctly, so I will know the result is a reflection of the products themselves and there will be issues as to whether both products were properly installed.
The other very, very interesting thing is that a Polish (no jokes please) PHD student is doing some extreme testing of CQ as a thesis paper and has been making videos showing the testing. The whole posts are over at DetailingWorld in the CarPro section. Here is the most fascinating video which shows the CQ protected surface PROTECTING IT FROM FIRE!!! Just bloody incredible IMO. Check it out:

[video=youtube_share;W6vP2-kzuyU] - cquartz on fire ! .wmv[/video]



Here is another video showing an extremely aggressive scratch resistance test:

[video=youtube_share;EICcQyxQkZo&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL] - c.quartz Anti scratch.wmv[/video]

In summary, there is more evidence in terms of testing, etc to show what CQ is capable of. There is also real world testing on vehicles with OC that are going strong after 3 years I am told. Bottom line, you can't go wrong with either one. I stock both and offer both to customers, so what's that tell you. I will also share that I find the surface to be slicker with CQ than OC. I got told by them that I shouldn't be touching it anyway. OK. But, the surfaces that I have done with OC were made nice and slick using ReLoad. ReLoad is a must IMO. In fact, I was playing around the other day and used Aqua wax first (by DG) and then topped that with ReLoad. That was the slickest the surface has ever, ever been. It was incredible. Not to steer you away from here, but I have written and posted finished jobs for both products on Live2Detail on which I am a Board of Director. You will find a ton of info on both products on that site if you do a search. I have done several vehicles with both products on there you will see.
Hope that helps.

 

[HeavyMetal]

Thanks Avi and Richy. I realize CQ is not bullet-proof and will scratch. Just trying to get an idea of how to maintain it long term.

Richy - Avi feels that a DA will not remove CQ. I think you've played with the new Megs MF system. Will that remove it or at least polish enuf for a recoat if the CQ gets scratched or swirled? -- This is diff from my first question about repairing a scratch in the paint. I have 2 DD's I'd like to use CQ on and the CQ will eventually get scuffs and swirls. Just want to have an idea of what I'll need to do.

 

[Avi@CarPro]

Thank you Richy..

another very important notice i should mention here.
Cquartz is totally not using the same ingredients like other products!!!

no polymers, no Teflon, no PTFE ,no alcohol, no solvents!.. anything like organics substances..
all our ingredients are the highest , most updated nano materials used in the market!
we dont call it for nothing Ceramic Quartz, inside there are nanometric Ceramic particles hybrid with silica.


the guy in Poland which Richy mentioned surprised us also with his tests,
through him we found out that even on Plexiglas surface(soft) Cquartz give very good hardness against scratches.

the flame retarding video... this was new to us too, we dont say here "go and try burning you car" but this test show the high bonding level the cquartz has to car paint and how it perfectly protect it ..
we are now testing the insulation feature due to this test. to see how much cquartz isolate heat energy from the car surface.

 

[panthercz]

Avi; can a layer of wax or different brand sealant be placed ontop of CQuartz? In theory would layering a wax or conventional sealant ontop of CQ provide some protection and extend the life of CQ?

 

[sohail99]

I read somewhere that coating cq'd surfaces with waxes changes hydrophobic qualities as now the water is being repelled according to the wax thats there!

Personally, as I have loads of carnauba waxes, I'll put a coat or two on CQ!!

btw amazing things happening on AG!! Now I'll get all my CQ, irox etc. from here!

Thanks a lot you guys!! :xyxthumbs:

 

[cbsb]

... all our ingredients are the highest , most updated nano materials used in the market!
we dont call it for nothing Ceramic Quartz, inside there are nanometric Ceramic particles hybrid with silica ...

Are you using Fumed Silica or Pyrogenic Silica in this product to give it strength?

Very interesting product!

Product description says it can last up to 2 years protection. What is the best re-application procedure?

Thank you taking the time to answer our questions here. Love to see vendors participate in forums.

 

[richy]

Thanks Avi and Richy. I realize CQ is not bullet-proof and will scratch. Just trying to get an idea of how to maintain it long term.

Richy - Avi feels that a DA will not remove CQ. I think you've played with the new Megs MF system. Will that remove it or at least polish enuf for a recoat if the CQ gets scratched or swirled? -- This is diff from my first question about repairing a scratch in the paint. I have 2 DD's I'd like to use CQ on and the CQ will eventually get scuffs and swirls. Just want to have an idea of what I'll need to do.

A DA with M105 and an aggressive pad would remove it for sure.

Avi; can a layer of wax or different brand sealant be placed ontop of CQuartz? In theory would layering a wax or conventional sealant ontop of CQ provide some protection and extend the life of CQ?

No, you don't want to do this. For starters, you defeat the purpose of the coating by rendering it ineffective. It's like getting a great haircut and covering it up with a toque. If you want to help the coating, use ReLoad. ReLoad helps keep the surface as slick as eel snot and helps prolong the life of the coating. ReLoad is an amazing product. It helps Opti Coat as well.

I read somewhere that coating cq'd surfaces with waxes changes hydrophobic qualities as now the water is being repelled according to the wax thats there!

Personally, as I have loads of carnauba waxes, I'll put a coat or two on CQ!!

btw amazing things happening on AG!! Now I'll get all my CQ, irox etc. from here!

Thanks a lot you guys!! :xyxthumbs:

If you really like playing with waxes, don't buy this product. If you use CQ, leave it alone and let it do its thing. The looks are amazing (wet shine) and the dirt and water repellancy must be seen to be believed. Other than ReLoad or AW, I put nothing on it.

 

[ScottB]

Richy on your comments above do you mean the newer version of Reload ???

 

[richy]

Richy on your comments above do you mean the newer version of Reload ???

Scott, no they don't. I still have about 1/3 of the bottle of V1. I have the new one in stock but I want to finish V1 first so I can reuse the same bottle as I really like the sprayer on it.

 

[indiej1]

Richy, speaking of sprayers, does the sprayer for IronX give an even spray? most spray heads with an on/off head don't have adjustable spray.

how's the waterspots incidence versus non-CQd paint? or do you get waterspot issues at all before CQ?

And, might you have been curious enough to have tried the pencil test for the hardness of CQuartz?

 

[Sunstealer]

If you haven't already, watch the video on the Reload page:

Reload Spray

It is almost mesmerizing watching the beads link up and roll off the paint. The APC test near the end of the video is pretty incredible. I have been reading about this product on other detailing forums, but it seemed really hard to get. I am glad Autogeek is now carrying it and hope to try it when it warms up some more in my area.