New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0

Chris@Optimum said:
Yes, when fully cured Opti Coat is harder than factory clear. This doesn't mean you can neglect good habits, but it will definitely help with softer paints.
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Thank you for posting here!

Question: I don't know much about clear coats, but have seen some bad ones that have failed - peeled off.

Can you're product suffer the same fate if not maintained? OR is this something totally different?

Thanks
Chris
 
Sounds great.

So what happens if you have to / want to polish / clean the paint for whatever reason after applying Optimum Opti-Coat 2?

Will polishing remove the product?
 
cbsb said:
Thank you for posting here!

Question: I don't know much about clear coats, but have seen some bad ones that have failed - peeled off.

Can you're product suffer the same fate if not maintained? OR is this something totally different?

Thanks
Chris
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Good question! No, Opti Coat 2.0 will never peel or flake. The chemical bond it forms is with your factory paint so in essence your factory clear would have to peel/flake.

davey g-force said:
Sounds great.

So what happens if you have to / want to polish / clean the paint for whatever reason after applying Optimum Opti-Coat 2?

Will polishing remove the product?
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After fully cured, chemical cleaners will not remove it. Finish Polishes and AIO's should be fine, but intensive/hyper polishes will remove some of the coating...just like it does your factory coat. What you will notice is that Opti Coat 2.0 will not allow airborne contaminants to adhere and is not as easy to scratch so you should be able to go much longer without needing to polish or clay.
 
So presumably, given the nature of this coating it should produce a measurably changed reading with a PTG (as in, the coating will add a few microns or tenths of a mil to the "film build" thickness of the finish), correct?
 
So how would you properly prepare the paint for an Opti-Coat? Obviously a wash and clay, but what else? Would you follow up the clay with a pre-wax cleanser?
 
mcpp66 said:
So how would you properly prepare the paint for an Opti-Coat? Obviously a wash and clay, but what else? Would you follow up the clay with a pre-wax cleanser?
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I think I answered this at the end of post #13, but if you have another question, shoot.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
I think I answered this at the end of post #13, but if you have another question, shoot.
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Well, you just mentioned polishing/compounding, not the method of paint prep. Wash and clay? Or wash, clay, and pre-wax cleanser? Any other appropriate steps?
 
Will topping with either Optimum Car Wax or Collinite 845 degrade the product in terms of durability or protection? I ask because I work for a power company and one of our coal plants in particular is terrible about etching the clear coat on employees cars. So I'll take any added protection I can get.
 
gonna wait for a in depth review of this product before I pull the trigger. sounds very promising though.
 
There have already been in-depth reviews about the professional version and they all raved about the product.
 
what is the difference between this and opti guard that makes this available to the public?
 
mcpp66 said:
There have already been in-depth reviews about the professional version and they all raved about the product.
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I used the professional stuff, it is amazing. I have 3 cars lined up this weekend. I'll post process and after pics next week
 
detailgod said:
what is the difference between this and opti guard that makes this available to the public?
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The cure time is longer, allowing someone more time to correct high/hazy spots, there's more liability when stuff cures rapidly causing the end user to have to compound off the coating if allowed to dry while in a hazy form
 
mcpp66 said:
Well, you just mentioned polishing/compounding, not the method of paint prep. Wash and clay? Or wash, clay, and pre-wax cleanser? Any other appropriate steps?
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All you need to do for it to "stick" is to apply it to bare paint (remove all dirt, oils, and silicones). You can do this any way you like: Power Clean wash, IPA, Dawn wash, etc. The paint condition needs to be what ever you can live with...any swirls, scratches, etc. that you leave on the paint will be sealed in under the coating.

RobZ71LM7 said:
Will topping with either Optimum Car Wax or Collinite 845 degrade the product in terms of durability or protection? I ask because I work for a power company and one of our coal plants in particular is terrible about etching the clear coat on employees cars. So I'll take any added protection I can get.
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More than likely the product you apply will suffer in durability because Opti Coat doesn't allow much to stick to it. Also, while the product IS on the surface, your car will take on the repellency and look of the product instead of Opti Coat 2.0. I use a QD after washing, but that's about it.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
I use a QD after washing, but that's about it.
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Which QD are you using Chris. I found OC to almost "repel" OID and it ended up streaking every time I tried it, along with every other QD I have...which is a good thing I guess. :D
 
What is the recommended wash method once your car is coated with this?
 
This stuff sounds really promising. I wonder how well it would also work on the wheels. I am excited that the coatings are available for not that bad of a price.

How do the coatings react to being topped? For example, could you use a wax with a bit of filler on top of the coating without compromising the coating underneath? I understand that you would probably loose some of the properties of the coating.
 
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