Is Ironx a essential step nowdays?

[DjbuddyPL]

Ive seen alot of ppl using irox nowdays here on the forums, what is it exactly, how do i use it and how much of it do i need it? are there any alternatives to ironx?

 

[Setec Astronomy]

A lot of people will tell you that the decon systems have been an essential step for a long time. I think it depends on what kind of contamination you're trying to remove, etc. The alternates are the Finish Kare decon system sold here at Autogeek and the Valugard ABC system sold...I dunno where it's sold now, it's mostly used at car dealers.

 

[BobbyG]

Does it work? I don't know, maybe, but the real question is; do you really need to use it?

I've never used anything like it and probably won't unless someone gives me some..:dunno:

 

[oldmodman]

I sure wish that it had been available when I got my Yellow Mustang in 2003.
It was covered with little red rust specks and it took hours and hours of work with clay and quick detailer to get rid of them. And some wouldn't come completely off. I just ordered Iron X and will be using it on all my cars before I do another thing to them.

 

[richy]

If you have a white or yellow vehicle, it is going to be much more obvious than if you have a black car. The ironx turns purple when it effects its chemical reaction. It's hard to see purple on a black car. When I got my Lincoln, I did the ironx soap wash on it. I saw no evidence of fallout, but I'm sure there was as my vehicle sat for a month in the storage yard at the factory waiting for a Sync update. If you live in an industrialized area, the need will be strong. I suggest the soap for regular maintenance. If you live on a farm, maybe not. I am not going to do it for customers' cars unless I see a need like in the IS250 I just did or a yellow F250 I did last summer. I sure wished I had the product back then! It will be a case of when you need it, you really need it.

 

[BobbyG]

If you live in an industrialized area, the need will be strong. I suggest the soap for regular maintenance. If you live on a farm, maybe not.

Richy,

Excellent point!! rops:

Living or working in areas where this type of pollution is common it's nearly imperative that something like this is used on a regular basis.

I live out in the country and rarely frequent areas where airborne pollution is an issue.

 

[S2K]

I did a wash/clay/wax on a friends white Honda last Oct. She lives in the Detroit area and there were lots of tiny rust color spots all over it. I got most out with the clay but some I just couldn't budge. I came to the conclusion it was from all the stamping plants in the area. I wish I had known about Ironx then, would have really liked to see the results.

 

[embolism]

I did my buddy's silver carrera this past weekend and it was a purple mess, especially around the handles and the back spoiler. Still needed seriously claying afterwards and my white pad was black after the paint cleaner (KAIO)

I think Iron X is useful for neglected cars (his was stored over winter in an underground garage with no cover) and for hard to clay areas like badging. I'll use it sparingly on my car (which is not neglected) and probably test it by blotting treated areas with some white paper to see if I can catch any purple.

 

[Rei86]

Bought a bottle with a 15% off discount, only got it for the hell of it since it seems like a good precautionary step.

So IMO its only worth it if you feel it is.

 

[dougaross]

Bought a bottle with a 15% off discount, only got it for the hell of it since it seems like a good precautionary step.

So IMO its only worth it if you feel it is.

I agree. Although there was iron showing on the wheels and around trim there was almost none showing in the middle of panels. I think the fact that the car had already been clayed had something to do with my observation.

 

[ObsessiveAutoDetail]

I live in suburban Detroit AND directly behind a train yard. Talk about fallout...! Anyways, keep in mind that claying only shears off iron particles, IronX opens the pores of the paint and completely removes the particles.

 

[Rei86]

I agree. Although there was iron showing on the wheels and around trim there was almost none showing in the middle of panels. I think the fact that the car had already been clayed had something to do with my observation.

I was thinking about washing the car, rinsing it, ironX, re-rinse then clay it. Only putting it that way since it would probably be the most effective way of seeing everything. Besides no one is saying you shouldn't Iron X before claying.

 

[dougaross]

I was thinking about washing the car, rinsing it, ironX, re-rinse then clay it. Only putting it that way since it would probably be the most effective way of seeing everything. Besides no one is saying you shouldn't Iron X before claying.

Yours is the recommended order. I clayed first because my IronX hadn't arrived yet.

 

[Rei86]

well...I guess I'm not paying that much attention then...

 

[jims_auto]

I had a chance to try this product out on some wheel wells on a white gmc p/u

I applied the product to a dry surface let sit 5 min and raise never applying a brush.

As you can see it does not remove any grease or tar


I am working on a white benz tomorrow and will take more pictures.
I plan to put together a quick video later this week.

I email Iron-x directly today with questions and concerns as they don't list a number being in Cyprus they returned my email very promptly within an hour to my surprise.

I also call Mike P at Autogeek and he took the time to explain what he know about the product.

Mike thanks for your help today

So far the only down side I see is the cost. I'm guessing the cost to do an average car will be 3 to 8 dollars depending on condition. This product will certainly save a lot of time on light colored cars with a lot of rail dust or other metal contaminates.

I don't think this product is necessary for every car but should save some time on light covered cars.

Hope to post for later in the week

We had done a detail on this truck last week and didn't have the iron-x in yet. It came in today for mudguards so it was a perfect time to try it out

 

[embolism]

I was thinking about washing the car, rinsing it, ironX, re-rinse then clay it. Only putting it that way since it would probably be the most effective way of seeing everything. Besides no one is saying you shouldn't Iron X before claying.

Avi recommends you dry the car first so the iron x isn't diluted unneccessarily. Doesn't have to be bone dry but you know...

 

[panthercz]

Richy,

Excellent point!! rops:

Living or working in areas where this type of pollution is common it's nearly imperative that something like this is used on a regular basis.

I live out in the country and rarely frequent areas where airborne pollution is an issue.

I agree. I bought a bottle of IronX and didn't get much purple from using it on my car. I do however see it being very important for others that live in big cities or around industrial areas.

 

[sohail99]

IronX is amazing! Apart from being a iron filing remover, its a great and powerful cleaner!!

I was trying to remove baked on compound from the paint(just a tiny lil speck of it from around the rear hatch near the hyundai logo(impossible to reach with anything but a Q-tip and a tiny lil area of a terry towel.

I hit that spot with everything I could think of!

IPA 50/50 with Q-tip > IPA straight(91%) with qtip > nothing!!!
Tried the same with a terry towel > still nothing!

Broke out a tiny part of clay to aggressively clay that spot, it just reduced a lil' bit and thats it!

So I got my APC(DP cleanse all) and again started scrubbing at it with a qtip and terry towel > still nothing!!

In the end I only had some oxalic acid based rim cleaner left which I had kept for ultra-extreme case scenarios but was very-very skeptical about using it on the hatch paint!(dunno why this thought came to my mind! I never want to use anything acidic on my paint ever lol!)

so, my eyes finally landed on ironX and I though to give it a try.

So I sprayed it on the compound speck, let it dwell for a bit and then scrubbed a lil' with the Q-tip >rinsed and wiped off the water etc. and voila!! the compound speck was no longer there!!!

I was initially skeptical about ironX around chrome emblems and stuff, but read Avi's comment that its safe for chrome so went ahead!

Its just amazing!

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

I was initially skeptical about ironX around chrome emblems and stuff, but read Avi's comment that its safe for chrome so went ahead!

Its just amazing!

Of course it's also important to realize that much of the "chrome" emblems and trim on cars these days is actually just plastic. :dblthumb2:

 

[FUNX650]

A lot of people will tell you that the decon systems have been an essential step for a long time. I think it depends on what kind of contamination you're trying to remove, etc. The alternates are the Finish Kare decon system sold here at Autogeek and the Valugard ABC system sold...I dunno where it's sold now, it's mostly used at car dealers.

[Auto International located in Cincy, Oh.]