Not happy with results...

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jeffs42885

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I just tried the following on my hood:

Wash with Chemical Guys Citrus wash
Clay with Adams Clay / Spray Detail
Dry off residue with microfiber towel
1 pass M105 + Surbuf (Porter Cable)
1 pass M2015 + White adams polishing pad (Porter Cable)
Buff off with adams doublesoft towel

There are still TONS of scratches, the gloss looks good, the color looks good, but I still see lots of swirls and scratches. Can someone please tell me what i MIGHT be doing wrong. I can try to get pics..
 
Some one is going to chime in here... first thing I notice is you did one pass with the Megs 105 and 205 and not 4-6 passes. Also how deep are the swirls? What kind of car is it? Some cars have a tougher clear coat than others.
 
Did you prime the pad? You should do at least 4-6 section passes. You might want to try slowing your arm speed down some. What speed were you using?
 
rider9195 said:
Did you prime the pad? You should do at least 4-6 section passes. You might want to try slowing your arm speed down some. What speed were you using?
Click to expand...

6 on the PC. Sorry, when I say passes I mean 1 application.

In terms of actual passes, I'd maybe do 3 passes, overlapping...

I primed the pad by putting 3 small pea sized dots of the polish at 12 oclock, 4 oclock, and 8 oclock like i saw in a video.
 
jeffs42885 said:
6 on the PC. Sorry, when I say passes I mean 1 application.

In terms of actual passes, I'd maybe do 3 passes, overlapping...

I primed the pad by putting 3 small pea sized dots of the polish at 12 oclock, 4 oclock, and 8 oclock like i saw in a video.
Click to expand...

Try doing 6 passes with slow arm movement. You want the pad and product to have time to work on the defects.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/24074-show-car-garage-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-polishing-da-polisher.html

This should help out:xyxthumbs:
 
Should I layer the product- I've seen some videos where you put on the swirl remover, and then layer the polish over it, and remove them both at the same time.
 
jeffs42885 said:
Should I layer the product- I've seen some videos where you put on the swirl remover, and then layer the polish over it, and remove them both at the same time.
Click to expand...

I would not do that..especially with M105. After doing 6 section passes with M105 wipe the product off. Inspect the results and then go to your finishing polish. M105 is a compound and does not need to be left on the paint. M205 is a polish and that does not need to be left on the paint either.
 
Let me ask this.

Is it possible that there is so much wax on the car (from me waxing it throughout the years) that the compound isnt getting through? Just a thought
 
Also, you won't necessarily want to move onto M205 and the white pad until you're happy with the amount of swirls and scratches you removed with M105 and the surbuf pad. The M205 and white pad are used to refine your paint after using M105 as you will probably have a little bit of hazing or marring left to clean up.

By scratches, are you sure they aren't RIDS (Randomly Isolated Deeper Scratches)? Some of these won't come out without jeopardizing your paint. Some things you just need to say "good enough" and move on. If you can post some quality pictures (non camera phone), you'll get some better answers.
 
You clayed the car and stripped it prior to attempting to remove defects, no?
 
jeffs42885 said:
Let me ask this.

Is it possible that there is so much wax on the car (from me waxing it throughout the years) that the compound isnt getting through? Just a thought
Click to expand...

That wax, no matter how many layers, came off with your first pass with M105 and a Surbuf pad. I believe you need to work the M105 a little bit longer until you're satisfied with the results; then move onto M205 and a white pad. Make sure you're working in a 2'x2' square or smaller.

Also, to prime your pad, you want to cover the face of the pad with the product you're using. Put a fairly generous amount onto the pad and spread it around with your fingers. There should be enough on the pad that they don't fill the pores of the pad, but you can noticeably tell that the entire face has product applied to it. After it's primed, add a few dime sized dots to the pad and work on your test spot.
 
Y2KSVT said:
That wax, no matter how many layers, came off with your first pass with M105 and a Surbuf pad. I believe you need to work the M105 a little bit longer until you're satisfied with the results; then move onto M205 and a white pad. Make sure you're working in a 2'x2' square or smaller.

Also, to prime your pad, you want to cover the face of the pad with the product you're using. Put a fairly generous amount onto the pad and spread it around with your fingers. There should be enough on the pad that they don't fill the pores of the pad, but you can noticeably tell that the entire face has product applied to it. After it's primed, add a few dime sized dots to the pad and work on your test spot.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice- ill try that.

Another thing i noticed..with the m105 sometimes i notice like "blotches" of the compound. when i first saw it, I thought i burned through my clear..any ideas?
 
jeffs42885 said:
Thanks for the advice- ill try that.

Another thing i noticed..with the m105 sometimes i notice like "blotches" of the compound. when i first saw it, I thought i burned through my clear..any ideas?
Click to expand...

Could be a few things: not working long enough or too much product is why it usually happens to me. Lately when I use 105, I do 3 or 4 passes and then spray a little water on it and then do another 3 or 4 passes (I believe that's part of the KBM, but could be wrong).
 
The only time I notice blotches when using M105 is if I've gotten too much of the product on the pad.
 
I sometimes get blotches when I let the pad come to a complete stop before lifting it off of the paint. If I pull the pad off just as it's coming to a slow spin, I don't get the blotches. Then again, that's usually with something like D151 that can be worked forever. Usually M105 disappears by the time I'm done working it.
 
jeffs42885 said:
There are still TONS of scratches, the gloss looks good, the color looks good, but I still see lots of swirls and scratches.

Can someone please tell me what i MIGHT be doing wrong. I can try to get pics..
Click to expand...


Here's my current list of DA Polisher articles, some have videos... read these two articles in this order,

DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide

DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing

I marked them below...





Dual Action Polishers

New - Video: How-To do a "Section Pass" when Machine Polishing with a DA Polisher

The short how-to guide for using a DA Polisher
How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers

The long and in-depth guide for using a DA Polisher
The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher - Includes Videos

How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher



This one --> DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


Wet Buffing Technique

How-to Machine Apply Wax using a DA Polisher

How to Apply Dodo Pastes Waxes by Machine

How To Apply Mothers California Gold Carnauba Paste Wax by Machine

How much product do I use with my DA Polisher?

The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...

Handle? Or No Handle? - Using DA Polishers Without the Handle

New! Cyclo Model 5 Pro Series - Variable Speed

How to use a microfiber bonnet to remove dried wax by machine

DA Polishers - Stick Handle - Hoop Handle - Or no handle at all?

Griot's Random Orbital Polisher

Meguiar's G110v2 - 2nd Generation G110 Dual Action Polisher

Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher - Extreme Demo - Warning!

3" Mini Polisher- 2nd Generation Griot's Garage Mini Polisher

New - Show Car Garage Video: How to use the Cyclo Polisher to remove swirls and scratches

New - Show Car Garage Video: How To Remove Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots using a PC 7424XP, Meguiar's G110v2 or Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher


And then this one --> DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing



You're close... all we need to do is tweak your technique a little...


:)
 
Thanks for the feedback, all. I did the following:

Waterless wash
Clay
6 passes of M105 + surbuf x 2
1 pass of 205 on white pad
It looks much better, still not perfect. I think another pass with 205 will do it. I dropped my white pad on the ground. So no polishing until I get a new one :(
 
jeffs42885 said:
Thanks for the feedback, all. I did the following:

Waterless wash
Clay
6 passes of M105 + surbuf x 2
1 pass of 205 on white pad
It looks much better, still not perfect. I think another pass with 205 will do it. I dropped my white pad on the ground. So no polishing until I get a new one :(
Click to expand...

Just to point out...

It's the correction step that's going to remove the deepest of the defects, not the M205 step.

Often times what happens, especially to people new to machine polishing is you remove all the shallow scratches so all that's left are the Random Isolated Deeper Scratches or as we call them, RIDS

After you remove all the zillions of shallow swirls and scratches the RIDS stand out like a sore thumb because now there's nothing left to camouflage them and these tend to drive people up the wall because most people new to machine polishing start out thinking they're going to remove 100% of ALL scratches and that's usually not the case with a daily driver nor is it a good idea.

See this article,


RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...



:xyxthumbs:
 
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