coatings ?

02CAMSS

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I am tired of waxing all the time and was thinking about switching to one of the new coatings and I was wondering which one is easier to use the Optimum or C.quartz? I would prefer one that is more forgiving if I put to much on and had to level it with a microfiber. Thanks
 
With Opti cost you only have a few minutes to level off high spots... My experience is about 15 minutes even though some say you have more time. I can't speak to Cquartz. I still think Opti coat is better applied with a MF pad than with a foam pad. Also always apply these outside in natural light on a non windy day. Shop lights will mask the high spots.
 
With Opti cost you only have a few minutes to level off high spots... My experience is about 15 minutes even though some say you have more time. I can't speak to Cquartz. I still think Opti coat is better applied with a MF pad than with a foam pad. Also always apply these outside in natural light on a non windy day. Shop lights will mask the high spots.
I agree on the MF pad for OC. CQ should be easier.
 
CQuartz is a bit easier to apply with less room for error, but Opti Coat will be more durable.
 
Both are easy to apply. I've applied both several times now.

CQuartz is more of a traditional method. Apply, let it sit for a little while, then buff off with microfiber towels. It can be layered like traditional waxes and sealants as well. All though you are suppose to get around 2 years of protection with it unlike any traditional wax or sealant.

Opti-Coat goes on really easy, you just have to make sure you level any high spots/excess. To do this, you need to be methodical about your application, only coat one panel at a time and have good lighting. I use a foam applicator to apply it and after a couple minutes I level off any areas of excess with a microfiber towel. Just wipe very lightly in one direction, don't try to buff it off like you would a wax.
Opti-Coat is "permanent" so I guess it should last much longer than anything else.

There are pros and cons to each coating as well, so take that into consideration.
 
Both are easy to apply. I've applied both several times now.

CQuartz is more of a traditional method. Apply, let it sit for a little while, then buff off with microfiber towels. It can be layered like traditional waxes and sealants as well. All though you are suppose to get around 2 years of protection with it unlike any traditional wax or sealant.

Opti-Coat goes on really easy, you just have to make sure you level any high spots/excess. To do this, you need to be methodical about your application, only coat one panel at a time and have good lighting. I use a foam applicator to apply it and after a couple minutes I level off any areas of excess with a microfiber towel. Just wipe very lightly in one direction, don't try to buff it off like you would a wax.
Opti-Coat is "permanent" so I guess it should last much longer than anything else.

There are pros and cons to each coating as well, so take that into consideration.

I agree with most of this (particularly the pros and cons of each product).
 
Applying OC: lighting is KEY! You want lots of natural light but you don't want bright light directly on the area you are inspecting.

On open areas like cars I use the back of my foam applicator to touch a high spot that doesn't flash at the same speed as the rest of the section.

In my environment if applied like a wowa the flash time is much quicker than was mentioned by others and I suggest that as soon as you see the majority of a section flash you should lightly brush (touch) any high spots that didn't flash right away.

Applied the way in the video below high spots are not an issue for me.

CEE DOG said:
OC Video: Opti-Coat 2.0

The first video shows application of Opti-Coat 2.0. Note the speed at which the product flashes is dependant on the temperature and humidity in my experience. The application to the taillight took place on a separate occasion but was spliced together in this video.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a4637xYAag



A high spot is an area that is left too thick to cure clear. Basically, when most of the panel flashes to clear, look for these remnants and lightly buff them until gone:

IMG_5325.jpg


IMG_5335.jpg
[/QUOTE]
 
I think Opti-coat 2.0 is about as easy as it comes. Time and patience is rewarding.
 
CQuartz is a bit easier to apply with less room for error, but Opti Coat will be more durable.

I agree :iagree:


That is if I define easy as less of a learning curve and less ability to make an error.

Once you have experience with the products and assuming you have good lighting OC is easy.

So, OC has more variables involved that can complicate it's ease of use.

One point for those who haven't done the research..

You MUST get the surfaces completely and utterly clean and free of oils, etc. If you want proper durability from a coating unless.....

OC: Optimum polishes are compatible with OC so if they are used a less strenuous cleaning method is all that's needed after polishing and before coating.

CQ: you can use CarPro Eraser to clean the surface after polishing to remove all oils before applying CQuartz.
 
Most of the problems users have with high spots on OC is because they are being too cautious...maybe a stigma with the word permanent. My best method is to spread it over the panel for even coverage then go over the panel till it's clear, rubbing it in with the applicator and stopping after it flashes clear. A light mf wipe before moving to the next panel can be used if you just want to be sure. Take no longer than 2 minutes to do the panel and it's all good. I'm applying it more and more with mf than foam too and don't seem to use any more product as i had previously expected to.
 
Chris, if I topped Opti-Coat with OCW or Opti-seal will it make it feel smoother? And how long will they last since they don't bond properly?
 
Chris, if I topped Opti-Coat with OCW or Opti-seal will it make it feel smoother? And how long will they last since they don't bond properly?

Indirect answer here but..... I don't think they will adhere or last very long. I have OG on my Mothers car. She somehow managed to drive in a freak tar storm and the car was covered. I was simply amazed how easily the tar removed from the OG.

So if tar doesn't stick too well, I doubt any type of wax or sealant will. Just my 2 cents!
 
No reason you can't use CarPro Eraser to prep for the OC, too. It's not just for CQ.
 
What about using Opti Seal? I don't understand the difference between it and Opti Coat.
 
What about using Opti Seal? I don't understand the difference between it and Opti Coat.

Opti-seal is more forgiving. It only last 2-4 months on durability. It also doesn't have the hardness that OC has. It's not a coating. It's a sealant.
 
Chris, if I topped Opti-Coat with OCW or Opti-seal will it make it feel smoother? And how long will they last since they don't bond properly?

Yes. How long they last will depends on the conditions your vehicle is subject too, just like any wax/sealant normally would. The overall durability should be reduced though.

For testing purposes I went ahead and topped the Opti-Guard on my car with UPGP. It's been 2 weeks and 2 washes and the UPGP is definitely still there. The paint is now slick, but it also attracts more dust and the hydrophobic properties are that off UPGP and not Opti-Guard.
 
Chris, if I topped Opti-Coat with OCW or Opti-seal will it make it feel smoother? And how long will they last since they don't bond properly?

Minimum will be wash to wash, it doesn't just fall off. Maximum would be a month. You can do a light polish with Poliseal to make it feel slick after its been on about a week. That will be a more lasting effect than a topper...but honestly OCW is so fast and easy, it's no biggie if you have to do it after a wash to get the desired result.

What about using Opti Seal? I don't understand the difference between it and Opti Coat.

Optiseal's application is very similar and the look is similar, but the products are completely different. Optiseal is a sealant that will diminish over a few months and Opticoat is a coating that becomes part of the paint (there till you remove it abrasively).
 
Most of the problems users have with high spots on OC is because they are being too cautious...maybe a stigma with the word permanent. My best method is to spread it over the panel for even coverage then go over the panel till it's clear, rubbing it in with the applicator and stopping after it flashes clear. A light mf wipe before moving to the next panel can be used if you just want to be sure. Take no longer than 2 minutes to do the panel and it's all good. I'm applying it more and more with mf than foam too and don't seem to use any more product as i had previously expected to.

Chris, I have been following the method you taught me and had great success and even coverage. My only question is if the vehicle is being coated thick enough. In my Q&A with David a long time ago he told me the thickness that a certain amount of OC will create. So, logically I am thinking the method we are using (like in the video I linked) it would be thinner than if you wipe on. I would like to believe it is still the same thickness of coating or fairly decent but was curious if David has studied or measured the thickness of the method you introduced last year.


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If you guys take a look at my video link on the previous page it shows what Chris is describing.

Chad has a great video as well but I can't find it.
 
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Great info in application of something Taboo such as OC 2.0.

And yes Chris I agree with you that the stigma is the marketing that its a 'permanent' coating. After reading about it I don't feel it too be permanent at all but a very strong sacrificial barrier, with that said the word permanent still rings in my ear every time I look at my syringe.
 
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