Ordering DA Polisher intimidated newbie needs advice on pads and products

eyost

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Hi all,

I am about to place an order on a DA Porter Cable polisher and have some questions.

I have a nine month old Honda CRV with dark brown metallic paint. In looking closer at it I see some light swirls randomly on the vehicle. In speaking with someone at AG they recommended to go with the Pinnacle Twins and first test with the Pinnacle Advanced Finsh Polish with a white pad and if that doesn't do the trick then advance to the Pinnacle Swirl Remover with an orange pad. Plan is then to follow that with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with a grey pad and then finish it off with Fuzion with a red pad.

I have never used a DA polisher before and I don't want to unneccessarily remove any paint or clear coat to resolve the swirls. How much cutting does the DA polisher do on paint?

Am I on the right track here or is there a better option? Also, would it be advisable to spot treat only the areas where swirls are or is it more efficient t do the entire vehicle?

Thanks in advance for any help with this intimidated newbie with a DA polisher.

Ed
 
I was going to get the PC 7424XP but I went the Griots 6" DA Polisher...Im glad I did. It has more power and seems to have less vibration then the PC from the reviews. I also had the pads for it, but also a big reason is that I did not want to spend another $30 on a backing plate to hold the pads on when the Griots came with it and it was cheaper. I love my Griots polisher.

Just take your time and dont let it scare you...your not getting a rotary.
 
Well the griots come with a standard 6" backing plate... you're going to want a 5" one anyways so that you can uses 5.5" pads safely.

But back to the questions the OP actually asked...

You are correct. You don't want to unnecessarily remove more clear or paint than you need to. You say the car is only 9 months old and so, there shouldn't be too much damage usually. Then again, we don't know the condition of the paint.

Mike Phillips has a lot of great articles and videos on proper technique with the PC. Also you want to remember to use the least aggressive methods first. Maybe use a very fine swirl remover or polish with a white pad and see if that is all you need.
 
Here are some links and videos that might be helpful for you...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...se-least-aggressive-product-get-job-done.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/38689-what-condition-paint-your-vehicles.html

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUHRnHsSXZU]Part 1 - How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher - YouTube[/video]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxwlWijdIxM&feature=relmfu]Part 2 - How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher - YouTube[/video]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9objUFdpsG4]Part 3 - How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher - YouTube[/video]
 
I have the following DA polishers: PC7242XP, Griots 6", Griots 3", and a Flex 3401. Being a new person to machine polishing I would suggest the Flex if money is not an issue. My second choice is the Griots 6" with a 5.5" Backing Plate. It has comparable power to the Flex and comes with a lifetime warranty. The cost is comparable to the PC. My PC is now a backup. Hope my opinion helps in making a decision.
 
Well the griots come with a standard 6" backing plate... you're going to want a 5" one anyways so that you can uses 5.5" pads safely.

But back to the questions the OP actually asked...

You are correct. You don't want to unnecessarily remove more clear or paint than you need to. You say the car is only 9 months old and so, there shouldn't be too much damage usually. Then again, we don't know the condition of the paint.

Mike Phillips has a lot of great articles and videos on proper technique with the PC. Also you want to remember to use the least aggressive methods first. Maybe use a very fine swirl remover or polish with a white pad and see if that is all you need.

Thanks for the reply. When you mentioned to start with a polish with white pad, would the Pinnacle Advanced Finsh Polish fall into that category or do I need to consider something else? Also, if I find that simply hand applying the polish resolves the issue, would it be best to hand apply the entire car, or would I get the best results with the machine?

Thanks for the info!
 
I have the following DA polishers: PC7242XP, Griots 6", Griots 3", and a Flex 3401. Being a new person to machine polishing I would suggest the Flex if money is not an issue. My second choice is the Griots 6" with a 5.5" Backing Plate. It has comparable power to the Flex and comes with a lifetime warranty. The cost is comparable to the PC. My PC is now a backup. Hope my opinion helps in making a decision.

Thanks for the information. I wish money was no issue, but with looking at purchasing all of the products, microfibers, etc. it is quickly adding up. I am familar with the quality of PC products, which is why I leaned to that not to mention that they offer a fair number of kits compared to the Griot models; I can always create my own if it is better for a newbie. What about the Griot leans you to it being better?

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the information. I wish money was no issue, but with looking at purchasing all of the products, microfibers, etc. it is quickly adding up. I am familar with the quality of PC products, which is why I leaned to that not to mention that they offer a fair number of kits compared to the Griot models; I can always create my own if it is better for a newbie. What about the Griot leans you to it being better?

Thanks again!

The Griot's is more powerful. It has a more powerful motor. Having said that, I personally chose the PC 7424XP because of it's reliability and it's powerful enough for my needs. The last thing I want is the motor to die half way through a detail. Yes the Griot's has a lifetime warranty but you're still left without a polisher till they replace it if it dies. The Flex is the best but if money is tight and you're just a weekend warrior on your own ride then it's expense is hard to justify. The added expense of a backup polisher is also hard to justify for a newbie on a budget just working on his own car.

Now if you were running a business, my recommendation would be different. You can always get the Flex later on if you start to get serious, need more speed and do a lot more cars.
 
Hi all,

I am about to place an order on a DA Porter Cable polisher and have some questions.

I have a nine month old Honda CRV with dark brown metallic paint. In looking closer at it I see some light swirls randomly on the vehicle. In speaking with someone at AG they recommended to go with the Pinnacle Twins and first test with the Pinnacle Advanced Finsh Polish with a white pad and if that doesn't do the trick then advance to the Pinnacle Swirl Remover with an orange pad. Plan is then to follow that with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with a grey pad and then finish it off with Fuzion with a red pad.

I have never used a DA polisher before and I don't want to unneccessarily remove any paint or clear coat to resolve the swirls. How much cutting does the DA polisher do on paint?

Am I on the right track here or is there a better option? Also, would it be advisable to spot treat only the areas where swirls are or is it more efficient t do the entire vehicle?

Thanks in advance for any help with this intimidated newbie with a DA polisher.

Ed

WATCH.
 
Excellen! Just watched all of the videos and it is quite helpful. My car is in pretty good shape and I see just a few swirls in isolated areas. Would it be acceptable to spot polish these areas out with the machine. Then put the sealant and wax on by hand as I can get it in faster that way or would it be still best to use the machine with a grey pad for the sealant?

Thanks!
 
Excellen! Just watched all of the videos and it is quite helpful. My car is in pretty good shape and I see just a few swirls in isolated areas. Would it be acceptable to spot polish these areas out with the machine.

Why polish any area that doesn't need polishing? That's a waste of time, polish and clear coat!

Then put the sealant and wax on by hand as I can get it in faster that way or would it be still best to use the machine with a grey pad for the sealant?

Thanks!

That completely depends on the sealant or wax you use. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations when it comes to using their product. If their instructions say that you can apply it by machine or hand, then those are your options. If they say that it must be applied a specific way, then that is your only choice.

As a novice, you NEVER go against a manufacturer's instructions concerning their product. At that point in your understanding of this process, they have the substantial upper hand in knowing what's best concerning their products. If you ever become an expert within this field, you may be able to deviate from a manufacturer's recommended instruction but be prepared to explain in very clear and detailed manner why you have chosen to do so. You need to be able to explain your methods in a manner that will be easy to understand by other if you decide to share what you do with the world. Trust me, you will be questioned if you decide to share your knowledge.

The absolute last thing I want to hear someone say is, "I do it that way because the Junkman said to do it that way." As a forum newbie to paint correction, my first question to them would be, "Who the hell is the Junkman?" lol!
 
I have the following DA polishers: PC7242XP, Griots 6", Griots 3", and a Flex 3401. Being a new person to machine polishing I would suggest the Flex if money is not an issue. My second choice is the Griots 6" with a 5.5" Backing Plate. It has comparable power to the Flex and comes with a lifetime warranty. The cost is comparable to the PC. My PC is now a backup. Hope my opinion helps in making a decision.
HI,
I agree.The PC is underpowered and I have used it once and since that time it's resting on the shelf.
Johny
 
HI,
I agree.The PC is underpowered and I have used it once and since that time it's resting on the shelf.
Johny

You should check out the link that I posted for the OP. Although the PC is no Flex or rotary, it can more than do its fair share of paint correction. If you cannot get the PC to work for you, I would suggest looking at your technique when polishing with the PC. As you will see in the videos that I posted, a proper technique work wonders with the PC.
 
You should check out the link that I posted for the OP. Although the PC is no Flex or rotary, it can more than do its fair share of paint correction. If you cannot get the PC to work for you, I would suggest looking at your technique when polishing with the PC. As you will see in the videos that I posted, a proper technique work wonders with the PC.

Must say that the 3401 is the tool to work with.I'm not the only one complaining about the lack of power of the 7424XP. Try your PC with 6.5" pads it's a pain. Also try to buff a thin coat of wax using your PC with a MF bonnet. Porter Cable should be present on forums like this one perhaps they would see how many customers are not pleased with this underpowered tool.
Johny
 
Must say that the 3401 is the tool to work with.I'm not the only one complaining about the lack of power of the 7424XP. Try your PC with 6.5" pads it's a pain. Also try to buff a thin coat of wax using your PC with a MF bonnet. Porter Cable should be present on forums like this one perhaps they would see how many customers are not pleased with this underpowered tool.
Johny

In the videos that I am suggesting you watch, I use the PC on a speed setting of 5, with 6.5 inch pads. Here's just one set of pictures that shows what I was able to do.

Before:

paint_damage3_zpsebd5ce84.jpg



After:

paint_damage4_zps02292e4e.jpg



As you can see, the results are remarkable. To find out how the damage was introduced into the paint (along with that #2 scratch), you have to watch the videos. The PC, by the nature of it's design is not meant to be powerful. It was not designed to be a paint buffer either. The PC is a orbital sander and that's what Porter-Cable marketed it as. It is those in the detailing industry who started using it as a paint buffer and detailing companies who market it as such. Porter Cable has no control over that (especially since they are not in operation anymore).

Just to give you an idea as to what else you can do with the PC, here's some damage that I also fixed using that tool. This was done at a car show while people stood around and watched. I was teaching as I was working so it took a while.

c5fest1_zpsd229459a.jpg


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c5fest11_zps7c4d5bae.jpg


c5fest10_zps47ef9e75.jpg


c5fest8_zps634f581d.jpg


c5fest9_zps3f2600b1.jpg


c5fest2_zps21bee702.jpg


c5fest6a_zpsafd0b3d6.jpg


c5fest13_zpsb30c0f80.jpg


c5fest15_zpsf1460eab.jpg


c5fest14_zps300f04a7.jpg


c5fest16_zps519eb636.jpg


c5fest5_zpsf844d98d.jpg


c5fest19_zpsff4dfed7.jpg


c5fest18_zpsde0e7c18.jpg


c5fest17_zpse4ef5a26.jpg



All this was done with the PC. That's 2500 grit wet sanding damage that you see me fixing here. As you can see, the PC when used with an effective technique is more than just a door stop. It's a effective machine when used correctly.
 
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that the PC is just as powerful or more effective than the Flex or a rotary. What I am saying is that the PC can be very effective when used correctly and is the machine that I highly recommend to a novice to machine polishing. A Flex is more machine than I feel a novice to machine polishing should be trying to use or learn on without proper instruction.
 
goin with the pc is the best way to learn how to polish safely,once you learn about different pads,polishs,workin inside,workin outside then maybe move up.i been workin with the pc for 3 years and have gain some insight and i feel i can start movein up.another way of lookin at it is this-perhaps you are workin on someones car and you are not sure about a tight spot,or a high spot or how much clearcoat is on somethin.you goin to grab the flex or pc?
 
The Griots is as reliable as the PC. So that is not an issue. The kits do not save you money. You can use the kits listed as a base order everything you want or need.

I find that the Griots easier to use especially with the location of the on off switch with the easy off button. It is a lt harder to stop the griots compared to the pc with the pressure. There is nothing wrong with the PC. I prefer a stronger motor that will have less strain which will help make it last longer.

@junkman2008. The Griots is just as easy for a novice. I am a novice and found that the pc is good the Griots is just an option to give people. Porter Cable (Black and Decker) is not the same as they were.
Ed
 
There really is no problem with the PC. People all have different tastes or brand loyalties. Sure the Griots is more powerful, but the PC is no slouch either. Both polishers will get the job done.

I own the griots myself. Not because of the power necessarily but because I got a great deal on the 25 foot cord heavy dirty version. I still would have preferred to get a PC 7424XP.

As you can see from the videos Junkman showed or even Mike's videos, you can do awesome work with a PC.
 
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