Scratching the car with Rinseless/Waterless wash?

I use DP RINSELESS WASH AND GLOSS and it is really great stuff. Two bucket method with grit guards in both, and soap in both. I go top down and divide the work into four to five sections, each getting its own MF wash mitt.
Mitt #1:
Hood/roof/ front windshield
Mitt #2:
RH side glass/mirrors/top of doors, allowing cleaner to drip on lower doors for a few minutes while working top, then lower doors (below moldings).
Take break - change out both water buckets after rinsing dirt out with fresh water. Fill 2oz DP to 2 gal. Warm water.
Mitt #3:
LH (as above)
Mitt #4:
Top rear, such as glass and waist high sections (doing an SUV)
Mitt #5:
If back is extremely dirty/salty, change out water after mitt #4 as described above, and knock out the rest of the back.

I use ZERO pressure - as Mike Phillips describes - let the MF and solution do the work for you, and keep the mitt very clean - dip it often.

I will buy replacement mitts annually for this effort. I soak them in a solution of warm water, vinegar, mild soap in the buckets with grit guards to allow any dirt to fall off the mitts before wringing them out and washing them in a front loader.

I have not had any scratches from this method. If I did, I would use my PC7424xp or Flex 3401 tools to fix, but again, have not had the need to.i have ONLY used DP Rinseless wash/gloss and the stuff works wonders, smells fruity, and doesn't irritate my hands/skin.

Good luck.
 
You're going to get light marring no matter what soap you use if you don't get all the large dirt particles off the car. Pressure washing is best, a hose is next and rain works ok.

I'd love to see someone's black car that has used waterless washes exclusively for over a year.
 
There's NO way in hell the rinseless wash is doing the scratching here, its the wash media, something is in it, this is why you must use 2 buckets and 2 grit guards as well as cleaning the wash media out VERY WELL, that's it. I've been using rinseless washes for a year now w/o a problem.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
ONR using GDWM.

trick is to use a sopping wet wash MF and no pressure or only enough to move the MF through each section/panel. same for the drying and buffing towels.

id pre rinse if the vehicle were filthy to get any large debris off but that goes for the traditional 2 bucket method as well.

i believe the rinseless is a more efficient system regardless of water usage though the amount of water and time i was devoting to pooling to dry was getting a bit ridiculous.
 
If one goes by Optimum's recommended dilution-ratios of ONR for a:

-Rinseless-Wash = 1oz. ONR : 256 oz.Water

-Quick Detailer/Waterless-Wash = 8oz. ONR : 128 oz.Water


Then...I ask:

Which of these three: "32 oz. products"...would have/provide the most "lubricity"?:

-A vessel filled with 31.785 oz. of Water...and 0.125 oz. of ONR
-A vessel filled with 30.000 oz. of Water...and 2.000 oz. of ONR
-A vessel filled with 32 oz. of Meguiar's Last Touch (D155)

Thanks in advance for any answers, that anyone may provide.
(This includes my methods of determining ONR:Water ratios.)


:)

Bob
 
I feel there is nothing wrong with waterless washing as long as you do it correctly. As bad as many traditional techniques can be for inducing damage, I'm quite convinced that waterless is worse. So someone knowledgable can do as good a job as with any other technique but your average joe, who knows no better, can make a really shocking mess.

I cannot help but be reminded how so many people on UK forums will seek compensation from a dealership who washes their car (normally considered a courtesy) against their instructions because they claim that hundreds of dollars of damage are done in a single wash. If the finish is really THAT sensitive, I simply wouldn't be wanting to risk a methodology like rinsless.
 
While I may use a rinsless wash on my lightly dusty car. ( never waterless). I would not hire a paid detailter who does so. I would expect the car to be wash ( with soap and water etc).

I think it shows poor workmanship and a short cut mentality.
 
FUNX725 said:
Then...I ask:

Which of these three: "32 oz. products"...would have/provide the most "lubricity"?:

-A vessel filled with 31.785 oz. of Water...and 0.125 oz. of ONR
-A vessel filled with 30.000 oz. of Water...and 2.000 oz. of ONR
-A vessel filled with 32 oz. of Meguiar's Last Touch (D155)
Click to expand...


I've been rotating between ONR v2, D155, and UWW+ for quick detailing. From these three, I feel D155 is slickest & best in the looks department, while UWW+ comes in first for cleaning power.
 
Ha ! I see this question raised A lot of other questions and answers!
I know I am good with this now! I use RINSE-LESS wash, not a water-less wash, And I love it, Spent a day on videos and products to see how NOT to scratch the car paint, Bought Many Microfibers too!
I recommend using rinse-less wash, Just be careful and watch a video or two.
 
BrutalNoodle said:
I've been rotating between ONR v2, D155, and UWW+ for quick detailing. From these three, I feel D155 is slickest & best in the looks department, while UWW+ comes in first for cleaning power.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your response BrutalNoodle!

RE: Lubricity/Marring...

-How is it that such a low amount of ONR to Water ratio...
Can successfully be used as a 'Rinseless Wash'...

-What's wrong with a person using the appropiate ONR:
"QD/Waterless-ratio"...in a bucket (instead of in a spray bottle)
as their: "Safer"-'Rinseless Wash' instead.

I say:
"Damn the extra polymers (if so...:dunno:)...Full speed ahead!! :hotrod2:

Bob
 
Seriously, we should have a whole forum section on this debate.

Anyway, count me among the converted. I've been using ONR + GD method, pre-soaking the panels with ONR QD ratio. I don't see anything wrong with my admittedly light colored, hard-coated Audi paint, and I feel much better about the car being clean than when it was covered in a layer of salt/sand/crud. I was outside yesterday, with snow still on the ground, washing my car with the aforementioned method (hot water), and I wouldn't have it any other way.
 
slimnib said:
While I may use a rinsless wash on my lightly dusty car. ( never waterless). I would not hire a paid detailter who does so. I would expect the car to be wash ( with soap and water etc).

I think it shows poor workmanship and a short cut mentality.
Click to expand...

I judge my skills by the finished product. Not in the way they were achieved. I'm thankful to Anthony of B&B for turning me on to his technique here on the forum a long time ago when others were skeptical of his process. :props:
 
Sorry for being off topic , but as its regarding of minimum usage of water so I thought to ask.
I am really frustrated with the continues below 0 temperature & cant able to wash my ride as I dont have garage :(

My question: Is there any product by which we wash our ride in below 0 temperature? as water just freezes

Thanks in advance
 
I have a related question regarding the type of MF towels to use with the washing phase and then the drying phase of rinse less and the same question with waterless
For rinseless, I have been trying out Gary Dean one bucket after spraying panel with sprayer (tried spraying with waterless for lubricious) then wiping with many wet towels soaked in bucket with ONR solution. What towels are best for this? I then blotted wet panel with waffle weave, but it doesn't completely dry panel. What is most effective MF for lightly buffing damp panel?

Same question for towels used with true waterless. Haven't tried that yet but I'd like to give it a shot with proper towels for the wipe and then for the follow up light buff.

Thanks
 
gamagreen said:
Sorry for being off topic , but as its regarding of minimum usage of water so I thought to ask.
I am really frustrated with the continues below 0 temperature & cant able to wash my ride as I dont have garage :(

My question: Is there any product by which we wash our ride in below 0 temperature? as water just freezes

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

One should be very cautious at temperatures approaching freezing. We all know what happens, water turns to ice. The problem is that ice is abrasive. ONR or the likes will not be adequate to counter this, the 'polymers' will freeze in the water and will not negate the roughness of the ice crystals. Worse still, micro and nano crystallites are not visible and form very easily. Think what happens if you wipe IPA on a hot panel - it flashes off into a vapour. The reverse process happens when water contacts a super chilled surface.

I am actually quite surprised this difficulty is not more widely discussed.
 
What dedicated microfiber towels are people using to soak and use? I have watched the videos and looked on his website but its still fuzzy as to what towels Gary uses. They look like lower quality short nap towels like the bulk available at Costco....are those safe to use with this method?

Or can someone suggest some affordable towels for this method? Perhaps from chemical guys? I'm willing to try on my black Lexus, if I swirl it I get practice correcting it right? Always have to learn, you don't learn unless you make mistakes.
 
Love the way you describe blow :) & you took my words away , I was about to mention the same that why this issue is not discussed the way it should be(I also search youtube) but nothing.

This my first winter here in canada & I came from a country(Pakistan) where we have only few below 0 days & here in canada we have few above 0 days :(

My ford Edge 2011 dark blue has 2 coats of wolf gang paint sealant 3 & one coat of NXT (did when one day it was8+ degree) but now ride is almost white colour caz of salt :( & as you mention I dont want to do ice scraping by doing washing :(

Thanks for your time & writing to my query

Mr Megane said:
One should be very cautious at temperatures approaching freezing. We all know what happens, water turns to ice. The problem is that ice is abrasive. ONR or the likes will not be adequate to counter this, the 'polymers' will freeze in the water and will not negate the roughness of the ice crystals. Worse still, micro and nano crystallites are not visible and form very easily. Think what happens if you wipe IPA on a hot panel - it flashes off into a vapour. The reverse process happens when water contacts a super chilled surface.

I am actually quite surprised this difficulty is not more widely discussed.
Click to expand...
 
In Garry's video he mentions the Sam's Club towels. I suggest you try various towels on a test spot to determine what gives you the results you desire.
 
If you want to get down to the scientific level of things I can tell you the short answer is yes. I remember reading in my organic chemistry book on how soap works. It basically engulfs the dirt inside and when you wash it away it stays engulfed. I presume though when you are using a waterless wash and wiping the dirt away it still has a small possibility of scratching the paint on its way off. The way I wash my car is with the two bucket method and I find it to be the best way to go about it. That way when I wash and then rinse the soap keeps the dirt engulfed and is able to run down the car in a gentle way without scratching.
 
I haven't seen a wash media yet that comes "clean" out of the rinse bucket using a grit guard in the two bucket method, especially after it just washed a really dirty panel. When you get a dirty panel, some of that dirt stays on the media no matter how hard I scrubbed against the grit guard. MF rasta mitts, the famous sponge, a Cobra MF Bone sponge etc

Now using the Gary Dean method , I never use a dirty media on a panel again, especially using the roll method for dirty lower door panels etc. And you can pick up quality MF towels cheaply if you are patient and look around. To me, its the only way to "almost" ensure you are NOT scratching your clearcoat while washing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top