My truck has sat for 3 years

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1dslram

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I am 72 years young and my Previously show truck has sat outside, for three years, due to poor health. It still shines under the dirt. Because I can no longer rub I plan on purchasing a DA polisher. I keep reading and am getting more confused, what would be the proper procedures and products to clean, polish, seal and ect. that I need to get it back to smooth and shiny as it was before.
Thanks
1dslram
 
Where are you located? This sounds like a chance for some local forum members to help out a new member!
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Where are you located? This sounds like a chance for some local forum members to help out a new member!
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I could not agree more - if your in SoCal, I would happily, as new as I am to the forums, organize a crew to bring your truck back to life...

Where are you?
 
ehannigan said:
I could not agree more - if your in SoCal, I would happily, as new as I am to the forums, organize a crew to bring your truck back to life...

Where are you?
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I agree, I'm on the east coast I can help you out if your in the area
,
 
Doing a little bit of Googling leads me to believe he may not be far from me...:)
 
I'm also in socal. Willing to give a helping hand

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 
Welcome Sir! I am also in So Cal. and willing to help you out if its local enough.
 
The rough approach is as follows:

1- Wash & Strip (using Dawn or a strong wash like CG Citrus Wash)
2- Decontamination (IronX or similar)
3- Clay Bar/Cloth/Sponge
4a- Heavy swirling/oxidation you use a heavy compound or advanced swirl remover with at least (2-3) cutting pads and then move to step (c). Several products from AGO permit you to skip step (b) altogether.
4b- Medium swirling/oxidation you use a medium polish/swirl remover with polishing pads
4c- Light swirling you use a finishing polish with polishing/finishing pads (i.e
5- After step #4, you would evaluate if you need to remove any hazing with a finishing pad. Depending on the products used in step #4 a you may need to remove the polishing oils to ensure you are looking at pure paint. Either an IPA, CarPro Eraser or Car Wash would accomplish that.

(NOTE: Steps 4 and 5 may be combined by using an AIO if the paint is in good condition. If the car has been sitting so long it is likely that an AIO won't be good enough for the "perfection" many people seek).

6- Seal car (1-2 layers)
7- Depending on the color, if you are looking for more depth you would use a Carnauba wax on this step

(NOTE: Steps 6 and 7 can potentially be combined by using a sealant/wax product. There are many but Collinite 476 and 845 come to mind as one example where 2 layers of either one will replace 6 & 7 and give you at least 6 months of paint protection).

The steps can be formidable looking; and it could be. Many folks tend to break the steps across one or more days.
 
First off, WELCOME to Auto Geek! Glad to see someone here that is older than I (LOL).

If you are anywhere near Southern Minnesota, give me a shout out. I'd be more than glad to try and help you out.

Bill
 
Welcome!

You'll get the right advice here.
 
I am located in Downey So Cal. My problem is I tire fast and can only work outside for 1-1 1/2 hours at a time. I plan to complete one panel at a time.Will a DA cutting pad work instead of using clay? Is there any brand of pads that work or last longer? I have very limited funds so the lower cost the better. This forum is a big help.

Thanks
Bruce
 
1dslram said:
I am located in Downey So Cal. My problem is I tire fast and can only work outside for 1-1 1/2 hours at a time. I plan to complete one panel at a time.Will a DA cutting pad work instead of using clay? Is there any brand of pads that work or last longer? I have very limited funds so the lower cost the better. This forum is a big help.

Thanks
Bruce
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Welcome!!! Downey? your 15 mins away from me. Im off the 105 and 110 freeways. Its recommended you clay before you polish to remove all the contaminents from the paint. Especially if the car was been seating outside for 3 years.

Im willing to give a helping hand and use my own supplies if you like. Im no pro but im pretty good with he DA. you can check some of my work if you like.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...honda-accord-worst-swirls-holograms-ever.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/52611-black-chevy-trailblazer-lots-pictures.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/57091-2009-acura-tl-intetior-60-pictures.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/53150-2007-toyota-corolla-interior-clay-wax.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/52848-subaru-wrx-interior.html
 
david11g35 said:
Welcome!!! Downey? your 15 mins away from me. Im off the 105 and 110 freeways. Its recommended you clay before you polish to remove all the contaminents from the paint. Especially if the car was been seating outside for 3 years.

Im willing to give a helping hand and use my own supplies if you like. Im no pro but im pretty good with he DA. you can check some of my work if you like.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...honda-accord-worst-swirls-holograms-ever.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/52611-black-chevy-trailblazer-lots-pictures.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/57091-2009-acura-tl-intetior-60-pictures.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/53150-2007-toyota-corolla-interior-clay-wax.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/52848-subaru-wrx-interior.html
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awesome offer here bruce :dblthumb2:

Learning from someone personally makes things so much easier and faster!

Welcome to the forum btw! Glad to see you here and wish you the best of luck in your endeavors!
 
*Google map* Too bad you're way down south. I wouldn't mind lending a hand.

Way to go, david11g35! :applause:

Should this goes down... pictures. Lots of pictures.
 
I'd be willing to jump in the mix. I'm not too far. Besides, my brother-in-law lives in Downey, and I used to work in that area, so I'm familiar w/ the area. I'm new to detailing, so I don't have a resume, but I have a bunch of products, tools & a new PCXP.

We could team up, share pointers & products, and help out a new member who would otherwise have a difficult time on his own.

Hey Bruce, could you fill us in on the details of your truck? You know, make & model, year, color and so forth?

Drew

Sent from my SGH-T999 using AG Online
 
AC in OC said:
I'd be willing to jump in the mix. I'm not too far. Besides, my brother-in-law lives in Downey, and I used to work in that area, so I'm familiar w/ the area. I'm new to detailing, so I don't have a resume, but I have a bunch of products, tools & a new PCXP.

We could team up, share pointers & products, and help out a new member who would otherwise have a difficult time on his own.

Hey Bruce, could you fill us in on the details of your truck? You know, make & model, year, color and so forth?

Drew

Sent from my SGH-T999 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me. I'm in if bruce allows us too.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 
Fellow AGO'ers first let me say; :applause:.

I've been in the on-line community since the 386 and Windows 3.0 days when it was nothing more than a bbs. To log on here and see so many offer to show up, help, and even teach him how to get his truck done when Bruce did his first post is EXACTLY what makes this place what keeps everyone coming back! It just made me smile..... BRAVO!!! :wave:


Bruce, first welcome to AGO. You and I are riding in a similar boat as to not being able to go at it all day long. While I'm 17 years younger, I have degenerative disc disease througout my back, some days are better than others, but spending 8 hours detailing just isn't gonna' happen. (With me it's more like 3 days!) :laughing:

I'm with you on working smarter not harder. Your best bet is going to be something like the GG6 and a dozen mixed pads. Not knowing how bad the swirls are it'd be hard to tell what pads or product you might need. The reply from mwoolfso is spot on as to all the steps involved. Might not have to do the IronX, but a good stripping to start is needed.

If you want to invest in nanoskin that'd be a lot easier than claying, but will require a machine. For a great OTC product that even pros use sometimes you might check out Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (UC) and Meguiar's Ultimate Polish (UP), follow that with M21 2.0 sealant and you can call it a day. ;) Although many top the M21 with either Ultimate Wax (liquid goes on easy and has great results) or even M26 carnuba (can be bought as paste or liquid).

Another VERY GOOD option after compounding and polishing would be a coating like Opticoat. Very hard, very long lasting, great protection. From a price standpoint while the single application is around $50 it's less trouble (and money) than having to wash/wax every 3~4 weeks over the lifetime of the product.

I'm going to do my wife's parents 2012 Nissan Sentra with it when it warms up. They are just too old to keep a car up these days (like lucky if it gets washed) and I just can't get bare to see the car sit out unprotected all summer. If I could get up there to keep the car detailed like it deserves it might be different, but a coating is the best option. (It'd be better if they garaged it, but it's a single car garage with a 1929 A Model in it.) :rolleyes:
 
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