Opti-Coat

AeroCleanse

AeroCleanse

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Been at least a two and a half years since Opti-Guard was applied to my fathers Chevy Malibu. Still looks fantastic when correctly washed. It rained a little so I took this ubiquitous beading photo.

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Looks good. I have to ask, is the car garage kept? Endure winters? Daily driver? Just wondering because I'm considering opticoat for my moms car.
 
Ryry11 said:
Looks good. I have to ask, is the car garage kept? Endure winters? Daily driver? Just wondering because I'm considering opticoat for my moms car.
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Garage Kept, daily driver, Wisconsin winters.
 
Ryry11 said:
Looks good. I have to ask, is the car garage kept? Endure winters? Daily driver? Just wondering because I'm considering opticoat for my moms car.
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Do it! I have 14 months on a metallic gray (dark) Honda CRV daily driver. 24/7 uncovered in Arizona sun. Beads like the week I did it. It's also keeping the black plastic looking new which is the first thing to turn to crap here.

I wash with the soap of my choice from my extensive and unnecessary collection and dry about everything with a leaf blower and a small microfiber. Looks like new.
 
Wow thats impressive! I'm definitely ready to pull the trigger on Opti-coat. Should've been done when I first bought the Mini! :laughing:
 
Have you noticed any swirling or scratches in the opti-coat?
 
ngonzi said:
Have you noticed any swirling or scratches in the opti-coat?
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None, but I wash correctly. It responds great to ONR washes too. Good prep is the key before applying it. Maybe I am abit obsessive, but after wash, clay and polish to perfection, I still did a double IPA wipedown.
 
I am thinking of opti-coat or gteqnik exo. I like waxing my cars and detailing them. Would applying opti coat and then periodically waxing it be useless because of the opti-coat or still beneficial?

Btw - great beading action.
 
I know opti-coat isn't really designed for single stage paint. Just wondering if anyone has used it on SS?? If so how is it working out for you?
 
ntwillie1 said:
I am thinking of opti-coat or gteqnik exo. I like waxing my cars and detailing them. Would applying opti coat and then periodically waxing it be useless because of the opti-coat or still beneficial?

Btw - great beading action.
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I know waxing over GTechniq EXO is a waste of time and effort. Adding wax on top of Opti-Coat will only affect the look it won't do any damage. Not sure it would be worth the effort though.
 
ntwillie1 said:
I am thinking of opti-coat or gteqnik exo. I like waxing my cars and detailing them. Would applying opti coat and then periodically waxing it be useless because of the opti-coat or still beneficial?

Btw - great beading action.
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I remember Chris from optimum saying that since opticoat doesn't let anything bond to it, waxes will not last long (a durable wax/sealant may last a month). I opticoated my Scion and put optiseal on top of it and it looks amazing. Since opticoat and optiseal can work together, optiseal will last a long time.
 
I've used it on Toyota white (single stage) with no problems. It works
exactly the same as the other paint systems and just as well. I guess if there is a down side to opticoat, it's that all your waxes and sealants are useless on it. They won't stick to it so it is pretty much a waste of time.

I haven't noticed any swirling in the opticoat but it is not near as thick as the clear. I take the swirl resistance as more insurance than actual protection against them. It is not a substitute for good washing technique in my humble, often worthless, opinion. Just use it on perfectly smooth, perfectly decontaminated, perfectly clean paint and you will be happy.
 
Toppers will stick, just don't expect their normal life cycle. If you want to add that nice carnauba glow...just use something economical and quick to apply like Optimum Car Wax or Optimum Instant Detailer.
 
AeroCleanse said:
I know waxing over GTechniq EXO is a waste of time and effort. Adding wax on top of Opti-Coat will only affect the look it won't do any damage. Not sure it would be worth the effort though.
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Ok. Thank you to you and others that responded to my question. I just spent some money on blackfire and Wolfgang products not too long ago. I may use those on my weekend car and get me some opti-coat or exo for the daily drivers. I enjoy cleaning my cars and I'm afraid this may take some of the joy out of it if all I have to do is wash. Lol.
 
Rayaz said:
I've used it on Toyota white (single stage) with no problems. It works
exactly the same as the other paint systems and just as well. I guess if there is a down side to opticoat, it's that all your waxes and sealants are useless on it. They won't stick to it so it is pretty much a waste of time.

I haven't noticed any swirling in the opticoat but it is not near as thick as the clear. I take the swirl resistance as more insurance than actual protection against them. It is not a substitute for good washing technique in my humble, often worthless, opinion. Just use it on perfectly smooth, perfectly decontaminated, perfectly clean paint and you will be happy.
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Thank you.
 
Stuff sticks just fine to OC. I've gotten several months with DG105 on top of OC.
 
Rayaz said:
I've used it on Toyota white (single stage) with no problems. It works
exactly the same as the other paint systems and just as well. I guess if there is a down side to opticoat, it's that all your waxes and sealants are useless on it. They won't stick to it so it is pretty much a waste of time.

I haven't noticed any swirling in the opticoat but it is not near as thick as the clear. I take the swirl resistance as more insurance than actual protection against them. It is not a substitute for good washing technique in my humble, often worthless, opinion. Just use it on perfectly smooth, perfectly decontaminated, perfectly clean paint and you will be happy.
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bumping an old thread here but to my understanding, modern SS paints are urethane based which is the same composition as clear coat (only clear coat has no pigment).

However, I question opticoat's ability in the long term for older oil based SS such as enamel or lacquer. Specifically, older paints are more rigid and less flexible than modern paints -requiring wax or oil (ie. meguiars 7) to keep it "nourished" and healthy. Considering the preparation of opticoat requires the removal of wax/oil before application, aren't we risking older SS paint's integrity?

perhaps someone with experience can chime in
 
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