Iron X... enlighten me...

TH3M B0N3Z

TH3M B0N3Z

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OK, guys and girls, I'm considering doing a full detail on my car before the summer really kicks in, and I'm also thinking about bringing Iron X into the detail.

My car is silver and I've been seeing the raildust-looking contaminants in my paint. I never noticed it on my last car as it was gray/grey. I really want to get those out of the paint, then follow with clay and go onto the glaze and 2 coats of MPL.

Also, should I wash the paint in Dawn and then do Iron X? Is Dawn necessary to use?

If anyone can fill me in about the Iron X, I'd appreciate it very much. Sometimes I'm freaked out about new chemicals and I just need a little guidance, lol.
 
When I do an IronX application I always wash the car with a.dawn type product to remove all I can before IronX. I like to have the cleanest paint as I can before the treatment to allow the product to do.it's best without having to eat its way to the iron contamination.
 
Kevin Cullen said:
When I do an IronX application I always wash the car with a.dawn type product to remove all I can before IronX. I like to have the cleanest paint as I can before the treatment to allow the product to do.it's best without having to eat its way to the iron contamination.
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Thanks. :)

Been watching some videos about the Iron X... looks like I need it! :laughing:
 
It is wild stuff to watch the purple run off something you thought was clean. Best thing I like about it is that claying afterwards is SO much easier.
 
Kevin Cullen said:
It is wild stuff to watch the purple run off something you thought was clean. Best thing I like about it is that claying afterwards is SO much easier.
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Yeah, I went ahead and ordered the 1 Liter Iron X, lol. Probably going to do the detail next Sunday, bright and early. Wash with Dawn, paint and wheels get Iron X, clay, glaze, and 2 coats of MPL to top it all off.

This week can't start and end fast enough. :laughing:
 
If you are intending on using IX on your paint - consider getting the paste IX as well as the spray

i've inquired about using the spray on cars' bodywork, and from talking with Corey and a few others, the paste is a better value for the car's bodywork because of the longer dwell time, and you use less of the paste with the ability to spread it around with an applicator. I'm reserving the spray for the harder to reach wheels/rims.

Just adding to the mix.
 
Becciasm said:
If you are intending on using IX on your paint - consider getting the paste IX as well as the spray

i've inquired about using the spray on cars' bodywork, and from talking with Corey and a few others, the paste is a better value for the car's bodywork because of the longer dwell time, and you use less of the paste with the ability to spread it around with an applicator. I'm reserving the spray for the harder to reach wheels/rims.

Just adding to the mix.
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never though of that! good to know!
 
I already got the spray coming in, but I'm sure that will work fine.

Will I need to avoid glass or plastic trim at all?
 
TH3M B0N3Z said:
I already got the spray coming in, but I'm sure that will work fine.

Will I need to avoid glass or plastic trim at all?
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never had a problem with Iron X and plastic, TriX on the other hand does stain plastic when left too long on!

Iron X kind of bleached a couple of black shirts I wore when applying it.... so don't were your favorite shirt!
 
Becciasm said:
If you are intending on using IX on your paint - consider getting the paste IX as well as the spray

i've inquired about using the spray on cars' bodywork, and from talking with Corey and a few others, the paste is a better value for the car's bodywork because of the longer dwell time, and you use less of the paste with the ability to spread it around with an applicator. I'm reserving the spray for the harder to reach wheels/rims.

Just adding to the mix.[/QUOTE

From what I was told that the spray was meant for both the body and the wheels and the past was mainly reserved for stubborn particulates like etched in brake dust and serious industrial fallouts.
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octane said:
never had a problem with Iron X and plastic, TriX on the other hand does stain plastic when left too long on!

Iron X kind of bleached a couple of black shirts I wore when applying it.... so don't were your favorite shirt!
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Great info! :D

Thanks.
 
IronX is ph neutral and says it is safe for glass and all automotive surfaces.
 
Ymmv. Use what works for you.

Sent from my VS840 4G using AG Online
 
I've got a question...

I just got the Iron X and it says to test in an inconspicuous spot... should I do that before I move on to spraying all the paint?

I'm gonna have to do it outside, too, but I'll be starting early in the morning on the weekend, probably no later than 8 in the morning, so sunlight won't be an issue.

Is Iron X really just a spray on, dwell for a few minutes, and then hose off? I'm working on OEM paint, as well.
 
TH3M B0N3Z said:
I've got a question...

I just got the Iron X and it says to test in an inconspicuous spot... should I do that before I move on to spraying all the paint?

I'm gonna have to do it outside, too, but I'll be starting early in the morning on the weekend, probably no later than 8 in the morning, so sunlight won't be an issue.

Is Iron X really just a spray on, dwell for a few minutes, and then hose off? I'm working on OEM paint, as well.
Click to expand...

Do as above, but use a foam or mf applicator to wipe the Iron X around. This works better and will save tons of product compared to just spraying away.

Lastly, if you have a respirator mask, safety glasses, and gloves..... use it!
 
SonOfOC said:
Do as above, but use a foam or mf applicator to wipe the Iron X around. This works better and will save tons of product compared to just spraying away.

Lastly, if you have a respirator mask, safety glasses, and gloves..... use it!
Click to expand...

So should I spray the whole car and then wipe the Iron X around with an applicator or do it all panel by panel?

I'll be working outside, so I guess the ventilation will be alright, but I don't have gloves. I already wear glasses. :)
 
Also, just curious about how often Iron X can be used on paint. I don't intend to do it very often, but it would be nice to know how often it can be used.
 
Iron X is very effective for decontamination but it doesn't smell so great. Don't leave it on too long because you don't want it to dry on there.
 
Becciasm said:
If you are intending on using IX on your paint - consider getting the paste IX as well as the spray

i've inquired about using the spray on cars' bodywork, and from talking with Corey and a few others, the paste is a better value for the car's bodywork because of the longer dwell time, and you use less of the paste with the ability to spread it around with an applicator. I'm reserving the spray for the harder to reach wheels/rims.

Just adding to the mix.
Click to expand...

Thanx for the tip mate ! Will be handy .
 
Once you have determined that there are no negative effects with a test spot as the bottle recommends (there won't be any) just spray down the whole car. Monitor the bleeding and make sure it doesn't dry on the paint. Once it has been allowed to dwell, agitate with a soapy wash mitt and allow to dwell further.

Follow this process with a thorough rinse and then your clay job will be so much faster and easier.
 
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