Recent content by darkstar752

Re: COAAD: What Lies Beneath... Nice job. I would definitely pick up SF4500 over Meguiar's Ultimate polish. You won't need to compound, the scratches are very light.

What coverage do you have that's only $200/yr?

Is your hose cracked? That's what happened to mine, took me a little while to notice too. They said it was a bad batch of hoses, and shipped me another for free. Take the hose off and check the suction at the inlet, if there's strong suction it's a problem with the hose.

Transfer paint is much easier removed with tarminator than compounding. IPA wipe afterwards and start polishing the clean surface to remove the scratches as much as possible.

You completely removed the polishing oils with an IPA wipe after 205 right?

It looks good but the facebook link looks amateur-ish and is hard to remember, no offense. You can get a year long domain name and website built for $75 now, it will be the best detailing investment you ever make.

My first step would be to try CarPro Eraser. Gentle and it does a great job of removing oils and wax residues. If that doesn't work, you're looking at a stained rim rather than some spray wax.

Oh my gawd if those were anywhere within 6 hours of me I wouldn't even let a fly land on the finish. Let me know when they come up to PA ;) That blue looks absolutely amazing.

I picked up a ~2 year old VX5000 for 375 shipped, just to give you an idea of prices. It had a couple minor cosmetic defects also, but still runs very strong. However, I believe I would get an extractor instead if I had to do it over again. For the steamer, most of the jobs it does can be...

That's a good analogy. I am typically backed up ~1.5-2 weeks, once I hit 3-4 weeks back-up I'll raise my prices by $20 or so.

Where are you located? That's way too cheap either way. $50 for 4 hours, + product cost and you're barely above minimum wage. Actually probably below it with the cost of clay. You're going to need to put most of the money back into your business, buying extractors, more chemicals, etc so...

I think you're really underestimating the job. If you do sand, use 2000 followed by 3000 on a D/A. Then use a rotary, wool followed by a medium polish on a medium pad then a finishing polish on a finishing pad. Also, there should be no point in glazing, because if you do it correctly, the...

Couple quick points that will save you a lot of hassle: M105 does NOT work well with any extra lubrication. Prime the pad by wiping some m105 across it with your fingers. After, you'll only need about 3 drops for a normal area. Do not use water or any QD with it. Let it flash, meaning work...

You shouldn't lay down anything. I would suggest a pre-wax cleaner, but that's really only for use before a wax. Despite Meguiar's name for the product, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax is a sealant. If you read carefully, you'll notice the product description says "A synthetic formula that cross-links...

I've never tried UC, always used M105, but M105 is my go-to polish for scratches like these. It's especially useful since it's a non-diminishing abrasive, and the cut is pressure dependent, so you can really lean into it. After a couple passes(2-3) with heavy pressure, you should at least...