Recent content by Helljumper09

I mis-spoke when I said it doesn't get as hot. I guess what I meant is we probably don't get the UV levels some states do. I looked at the long term review and I don't get any waviness in my application of the spar. I don't know if it has to do with the way I mix it or the proportions of the...

I don't see the lenses failing in 6-12 months as some have said. I have more than a couple that have lasted over three years and look nearly as good as when I restored them. Maybe the formulation of the Spar has changed but I'm getting well past 6-12 months before the lenses start to fail again...

Yes, you can and did reduce the visibility of the crazing but I don't think it's possible to get rid of it all together. I could be wrong though. I had one car, a newer Monte Carlo, that some crazing showed up after I did the sand polish and sealant. I don't know what caused this as it was not...

This is crazing exactly. And no, the sanding and polishing will not fix it. I beleive the damage extends all the way thru the plastic to the other side. I havent found a way to fix it yet.

I believe the pattern of tiny cracks is called crazing. I believe it do be the plastic is deteriorating and maybe drying out? I dont really know for sure but that's my opinion.

I too have noticed one failure of the urethane on a PT Cruiser I worked on for my Aunt. Exactly one year later it has started to fail. I am wondering if it is the urethane or the plastic underneath?

There is no problem mixing these two together so give it a try. Makes the lights so much nicer plus adds some UV protection. Remember to apply with the Scotts Blue shop towels and you shouldn't have any problems. If you get any runs or drips, just re-wipe across the whole lense until they go away.

Just reread this thread and was wondering if you used any sort of UV sealer like me. I use a 50/50 mix of spar urethane and mineral spirits, like the headlight sealand thread on this site says. It works great for me, maybe you could give it a try if you haven't already.

Hey g35, It sounds like you use the same process I use for headlights. I do the initial tape off, before pics, depending on ho wbad the light is I will start with 400, if they are really bad, then 600, 800, 1000 then 2000. Follow up with Meg's PlastX on a Mothers Powerball Mini on a Hitachi High...

Looks great man! Dont mean to be picky nut maybe there is a little bit of haze remaining on the lights? I could be wrong. But they look great!

The Optimist says the glass is half full, The Pecimist says the glass is half empty and the Engimeer says the glass is twice as big as it needs to be. Thats what I think.:props:

I figured between sanding, polishing, and re-sealing, it probably took me a good half hour to 45 min for each one. To others this may seem like a long time but I like to make sure that most if not all of the sanding marks are gone before I apply the seal coat. It just makes it that much easier...

Polishing is a key step in restoring headlights and is my second to last step in my process. After polishing, i lay on a 50/50 mix of Mineral spirits and Minwax Helmsman Spar urethane with a Scotts Blue shop towel folded into a 2x2 inch square.

When I wrote "dim", I didn't think of it in that sense, now I look back and laugh.LOL

Rhudeboye: as to which product I used is wetsand with 800, 1000, and then 2000 folowed up by polishing with Meguiars PlastX on a Mothers Powerball Mini on a high speed power drill. Any other questions please feel free to ask.