Recent content by Joeyavhu

I agree with many of the statements you guys have made. I do agree that perhaps some form of the soap is left on the vehicle, which may lead to skewed results. I do think that for accuracy of when you would attempt to strip wax though, it is spot on. I think around the 3 month mark is when most...

Here is what the finished product looks like :)

I read a lot about people asking how to remove an LSP, whether it be wax, sealant, etc. I have found very few answers, besides dedicated paint cleaners and decided to do my own side by side comparison. I hope this helps those of you who are looking for different ways to strip off these products...

I have not noticed any, although I visually inspect the mitt at least 2-3 times per panel, rinse it off 2-3 times a panel, and run my hand over it each time I rinse it off, so that may help. Also, I am almost always doing correction work after, so I'm certainly not saying that I don't care...

I have a medium and a fine grade nano skin mitt. Its hard to think about moving back to clay. You just rinse off the mitt often, foam the next panel, and move on your way. They work very well.

I use a program called 'Quick Sale' on my iPad. It works great. I am able to make up the different services with full descriptions, add prices, choose tax rates, categories, everything. When you go to make Invoices you just tap the services and it adds them, taxes, etc. You can easily add...

Ive used the 3M rubbberizred undercoating on both my personal trucks and also customer vehicles, its good for spraying on metal, dont know how well it would hold on plastic, probably pretty alright though.

You should consider decontaminating the paint with every package. Thats where the real wow factor comes in when your handing it back over. To save time with that step check out nanoskin wash mitts, they can cut claying down to about 15 minutes.

I have an older Ionic Breeze Quadra, the ones made before they put the additional element on the front that converts 03 back into O2, and have used it quite successfully for odor removal. It does not put out the same amount of ozone that a dedicated ozone unit does, but you can safely leave it...

I wash, then before drying walk around with the foam gun and decontaminate with a nano skin mitt (used to be the clay step), dry, then correct, followed by a quick wash, probably the easiest wash you'll do, mostly just getting off any polishing dust, then dry and seal.

Detailer use the logo because its classy looking and you can find it in the public domain. If your starting a detailing business and not just a $40 car wash business, stay clear of cheap looking cartoon logos.

Where in the CC are you? I live over in Pine Ridge, maybe we can get together one day for a mini-detail fest.

I usually take a heavy compund and just apply it with a microfiber cloth. Ive done this on many cars easily and with many positive results. Machines are just gonna scratch those tough areas.

Steel wool and acid sound dangerous. I have heard this method, but it concerns me. I have a 2013 car and it has a permanent coating that repels rain on the windshield, what is your thought on how well this coating would hold up to wool and acid? Personally, I have had good results with claying...

I live in Florida and have no problem when it rains. It prevents the water from drying while Im still washing, rinses it if its heavy enough, then I pull it in my garage and dry the car off. I have a heavy duty long rain coat just for these occasions.