Recent content by NoMoreBlackCars

I agree and used this approach last year, but I found 3D One didn't correct or finish as well as Sonax Perfect Finish and left more oil residue on the pad and paint. I also preferred the Rupes yellow over the LC white. The Rupes pad taper really let me get into sharper curves without micromarring.

I have a black NC Miata with very soft paint like your S2K. Here's my 4 years of experience and how I approach caring for the paint now. I have done a 2-3 stage compound and polish about 4 times using Menzerna and Sonax products, and applied CQuartz UK once and Gtechniq CSL once, along with...

Well then I'll have to add Sonax S+S to my testing. I'm going to leave the rocker panels bare for toppers only. Will probably start with what I have--BSD, IGL Premier, Kamikaze Over Coat--and then S+S can take on the winner. Or maybe I'll put it against another SOSO product if I can convince...

I'm impressed again by DG 931 and also by Sonax S+S and Dodo Red Mist. It'll be interesting to see how 931 and Red Mist hold up when the rain comes. I would expect S+S will do well in the wet season but I'd love to see it up against BSD. From what I've seen in reviews, they are pretty...

I asked about the cure time because some of these products don't tell you how long and recommendations on forums vary quite a bit. Also because I've got a lot of dust and pollen so letting cure for +5 minutes will mean covering up and waiting for one section at a time. Guess that's what I'll be...

As you're thinking of doing this group again, what buff-off times would you recommend for the tin waxes? Double coats of anything, either last time or next?

Thanks for keeping us updated. What are you evaluating about the WW products? Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

I'd love to see that pro/con post. I can agree I see more cons now, but I probably haven't thought of or experienced everything. As far as water spots, I would think that many dryer but hotter climates would make it as much if not more of an issue. But I imagine the mineral and contaminant...

Thanks Rippy for the clarification. It's suprising to me that in your test FK1000P didn't do as well as 845 and that 915 was so far back from them, since the majority opinion (rarely, it seems, based on back-to-back testing) is that FK1000P, Collinite 476, and DG 111 are the most durable, with...

Just about to decide what products I'll be using for the next year, and it would be so much more difficult, uncertain, and needle-in-haystack without your testing. Thank you! It helps that I'm near Seattle so essentially the same conditions. The pains you've taken to get your spreadsheet data...

Just about to decide what products I'll be using for the next year, and it would be so much more difficult, uncertain, and needle-in-haystack without your testing. Thank you! It helps that I'm near Seattle so essentially the same conditions. The pains you've taken to get your spreadsheet data...

If you still have those I agree it's worth trying again, but this time frequently applying a light topper like Reload. I think I'll repolish and do half the hood with CSL and Reload and half with a sealant like PNS or Powerlock, or even S&S or FK1000.

Thanks, that makes sense to me. I just had Can Coat over CSL leave etched spots (tried all chemical removal options with no improvement) after the first drive 3 weeks after coating, topped with Reload to protect while curing. Car was covered until yesterday, no rain or other water exposure that...

Rippy, have you noticed any of the longer lasting products that seem to do well or poorly with water spots and etching? I've had too many etching problems with coatings so I'm looking to switch to one of the more durable sealants.

I agree that CSL doesn't do much for looks. I had it and Sonax PNS on adjacent newly polished black panels and there was no discernable difference in saturation or depth, maybe a slight hint more surface gloss under a spot light. Haven't used PA due to price/longevity, but I don't think CSL is...