Recent content by steelwindmachine

yeah, I don't think I want my plates to have a satin luster or fragrance, let alone additional oils.

That Griot's/Bissell is nice, but is anyone using a smaller cordless or 12vdc vacuum for on the road?

@ducksfan, thanks for that - I see that the Rubber Prep has solvents for the active ingredients whereas the Rubber Cleaner has a mix of Cleaning Agents with pH adjuster. I suspect any of these products will work well enough to clean the chalk and any residual accumulated sweat/oils. Not as...

@Bosko - perfect, I have Megs D101

I'm in NJ - we'll either get hammered with snow and the pre-requisite salt/brine or we'll just get lots of rain. These days I just go to my local touchless place. I go regularly enough that I get discount washes having joined their "Loyalty" club. :) Maybe in the Spring I'll get a full detail...

While not a vehicle, I thought you lot would be the ones to ask about what product(s) you might use to clean and protect rubber coated Olympic weight plates. These typically get handled with hands covered in chalk dust. They're kept indoors and generally away from direct sunlight. Maybe some...

I have baked on white emollients (grease) from RainX winter washer fluid that I can't get off from my glass and paint. I've tried white vinegar, mineral spirits, Dawn, Meg's D114 diluted 1:10 with water and WD40. I have the RainX Extreme Clean cleaner to try and am if that doesn't work, might...

It seems that Leather Doctor has the most complete line of products that are directly targeted for corrected top-grain automotive leather. Many of the other products don't specifically state or address how to effectively use them on leathers that are top coated. The products from Sonax look...

I have a 2014 Kia Sorento with perforated pigmented finished leather front seats, non-perfed back seats and glossy coated leather steering wheel. I feel really confused by the various leather cleaning/conditioning products since they all seem directed at non-finished/raw leather. I've looked at...

I'm using the ONRWW for it's added wax protection. I decided to stray from the 2BM since Scott from Dallas Paint Correction essentially proved that it doesn't work unless you use a fresh mitt/towel for the soaping and not rinse anything that goes back into the soap.

This fall I'm hoping to do a correction and apply Collinite 476 to one car and Finish Kare wax to the other. I use the Optiseal as a drying aid for the washes and if I have more time, I'll apply it as originally prescribed for more thorough protection.

Do you mean the "Hydroshot"? If so, there is a 20v ($109-120 depending on promo) and 40v ($127-$140 depending on promo) version. I presume you'd put the ONRWW in the supply bucket?

This past weekend I washed my cars ('05 Forester and '14 Sorento) for the first time in months since winter. I don't have water restrictions and have my own hose/water access. I had been using the two bucket method with either Meg's Gold Class soap or ONRWW, grit guards and microfiber mitts...

Belo, My wife's 2005 Forester, in light silver, has only had 2-3 clay bar and hand applied Meg's Cleaner/Wax sessions in its life other than the by-hand polishing I did last year. It has some water spot etching, plenty of swirls and a few RIDS. My 2014 Kia Sorento in titanium silver (gray) was...

I saw another member's thread who did a 1-step correction using LC White flats and FG400 on a 2013 Kia Optima in black. The results were pretty stunning. My Kia is a 2014 in dark metallic gray. The other subject is a 2005 Forester in silver. There again, I found another user who hit a 2009 WRX...