Recent content by Themightytimmah

First Class in Pompano Beach, there is really no contest. They're Ferrari factory certified and they finish out with Menzerna. Ask for John, he's a great guy.

I find that I end up claying and polishing pretty much every new car I get my hands on. My friend's Highlander was pretty close to swirl free when he got it, but a quick couple of passes with Ultrafina brought the gloss up even higher. Plus I had to get pretty aggressive with the clay and it...

Do you know what kind of overspray it is? Some types can be removed with a solvent that will not harm clearcoat but will melt other types of paint. If you're unsure, a claybar will work but it takes a while. Once you get the surface prepped and clayed, polish with your machine and polish of...

It should be safe for a week, I'd recommend claying *and* polishing before wax application.

System One is very weather-friendly. Good product via rotary, it doesn't have the cut to remove major defects in one pass, but it's a nice product to use. 3M Ultrafina SE is my go-to finishing polish these days. It's some hot stuff. For defect removal, I honestly just buff with IP or equivalent...

You could use exclusively Mother's products and produce a deep, defect-free shine. IMHO, you're looking at 50+% more time investment to do so, though, and if you parked that truck next to one done with the "trendy" products, a trained eye could tell a difference but the average person could not.

I like Menzerna's products a lot, and I think that some of the older products don't get the credit they deserve. Although 106ff leaves a great finish, it has a tendency to have recurring holograms on soft paint (e.g. it looks great after polishing, but a month later light holograms come back) if...

Glazes aren't going to work too well with Zaino. You probably want to use Zaino ZPC to take it off, the amount of clear removed will likely be less than 1/50 of the total amount you can remove.

Use a sealant instead of a carnauba. Don't use MF towels to dry (they create a static buildup). Dry with an air blower if possible. If you must dry with MF towels, use Finish Kare #425 QD to wipe down. It's a pretty effective anti-static product. Pollen is pretty tough to QD without marring...

Nissan paint tends to be on the worse side for OP. As far as sanding it out goes, I'd be pretty afraid of compromising the clear - my buddy's Xterra has 3 or 4 bird bombs through the clear already, it seems as if it's pretty thin to start with.

If I had to take a shot at it, I'd bet it has to do with the distribution of solids in the clear. Consider a bucket of sand - it's real easy to put a dent in it, but it's a bear to scrape off the top layer from above. Because of how the solids in the clear are oriented, it's easy to "push"...

Corvette paint is pretty challenging to correct. It's hard to level (remove) but easy to induce new swirls on. I would stay away from the yellow pads and stick with orange for that reason - now might be a great time to invest in some of the new Wolfgang SMR's. White is probably your best bet...

An acid-based wheel cleaner should burn the dust out of the clear without harming the clearcoat (dissolves metals but not paint). Meg's WB 1:1 has done it for me on several wheels that I felt were beyond repair before, including a BMW that hadn't had it's wheels cleaned in a year and a half.

Hmm, I've never heard of this happening with a clearcoated car, but an old single stage trick to fix this kind of problem is to coat the car in Megs 07 a few hours before buffing, then wipe it off right before buffing. Soaks oils into the paint. This trick might not work though, because in...

Two different animals. PG is a 1000ish grit leveler, it cuts hard but it gums up badly and is a generally unfriendly compound (the new generations are better). OC is a dream to use but its level of cut leaves a lot to be desired on those really bad jobs. It does have an exceptionally long...