Recent content by truzoom

OK so I actually gave it a shot just after midnight. Here are my results: 1. CarPro Rayon Pad + CeriGlass + Hand = Coarse hairline scratches, didn't even touch the marks I was trying to fix 2. CarPro Rayon Pad + CeriGlass + PC 7336 = More coarse hairline scratches 3. CarPro Rayon Pad +...

Correct just polishing a small spot on the outside of the glass. I was hauling something in the bed and it ended up rubbing against the glass, putting in some micro scratches. I'm going to go at it lightly and see how the CeriGlass works. Hopefully it'll do the trick. Thanks!

I ordered some CeriGlass + Polishing pads from AG and plan to use it on some light scratches on the outside of the rear window of my pickup truck. However, when I was doing my pre-polish research, I saw that the description for CeriGlass states: "Not for use on aftermarket window tint, painted...

In my perception, it's one of those waxes that just doesn't seem to glide on as smoothly. The fairly neutral color of it makes it seem like it "skips" spots when being applied, when in reality there is a very subtle layer there. Tends to make you second guess and go back over spots, which just...

476s is detergent resistant enough that it can be like that. I love the stuff but it can be a pain to apply.

Wait are you saying lacquer thinner will go THROUGH the outer glass layer and attack the inner film? (let's assume the grass isn't cracked or chipped)

I bought a gallon of 3D Final Touch, which works great as an all around quick detailer. The price point was my reason for buying it as I really just needed an economical QD option. However, the strawberry(?) scent of it is cloyingly strong and will remain on your skin after washing with strong...

QID's label claims that it leaves protection, but frankly I use it for the scent and the light cleaning ability. Unless you can find some sort of wax or sealant intended for use on rough textured plastic, you'll have to compromise between a glossy/somewhat greasy finish that purports UV...

I'd see if a claybar can get it. If that doesn't work, very LIGHT application of acetone (on a towel) followed by a polish. You could even try using women's nail polish remover which I think nowadays is toned down somewhat to be less harsh.

If they are losing color, no product will make them look "darker" once the product dries. You might look into using Rit dye to re-blacken them.

If we're talking about the protectant, then it's still OK stuff. It'll work in a pinch. Doubt it'll stay on after a light rain, though. Their extreme wheel cleaner... I swear is just rebottled Eagle1 A2Z. Works really well on wheels, although I'd be hesitant to use it on anything not clear coated.

Found this on the Amazon page for the product in the Q&A section: Question: Once it has dried onto glass surfaces, how do you remove it? Answer: apply a small amount of the ultimate protectant to a microfiber and rewipe the area to soften it up then go over with a clean towel and glass cleaner...

I bought a can of this to try, but I'm concerned about its effects on my microfiber towels because it contains silicone. I don't intend on doing any auto body painting where silicone would pose issues, but cross contamination is a concern and it seems like not even the strongest soaps or APC...

Those platforms go on sale at Lowe's every Black Friday for $20. Otherwise they cost around $45. Shop Werner 3.375-ft x 13-in x 6-in Aluminum Work Platform at Lowes.com

Question is for those here who are already running their own businesses. Did you more or less dive right in? Or did you get caught up in all the little details? I think this is where I'm stuck. Seems like there are just so many little things that need to be taken care of, but realistically...