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The only way that I have ever been able to get rid of sanding marks is ending with 3600 grit paper, and using a hybrid wool pad on a rotary. A DA won’t touch it. I don’t know how you get a rotary inside all the complicated radaii and surfaces of a wheel.

Well let’s put it this way… You wait a few minutes and you’re not gonna have a problem …..at least I didn’t. It came off just as easy as it went on. But I am a huge believer in one panel at a time… Literally for almost everything…

Exactly… The microfiber brick is absolutely the way to go, I can’t stand using towels as an application , it’s far too inaccurate… IMO

Huh? I wiped it on, waited a few min and wiped/buffed off…worked fine for me…..

I’ve been using wet coat on my wheels for a couple years now, and have absolutely no problems with it , here is my procedure: -Depending on how dirty the wheel is , either apply a wheel cleaner or just clean with Dawn dishwashing soap -completely wet the wheel and spray on wet coat, making sure...

I watched a bunch of the videos about application and decided the best thing for me was spraying from the bottle onto a microfiber brick applicator, it worked perfect ….I sprayed very close to the applicator , like a half an inch or so…wipe on, wait 2-3 min the buff off, 1 panel at a time.

It would not be hard at all to use a Dremel buffer wheel to bring back the chrome edging, then primary color testers hobby paints with a small brush to completely refurb that faded badge...

Water spots and a finicky application process is why I don’t do it anymore. I did two cars with two different products that are well known here, and overall once the SIO2 sprays came out, I never looked back. I do it more often, but it’s just so much easier. It is the exact same gloss level.

2018 Yamaha Xmax 300 My x2 m35i is somewhere Above but this is what I use most of the time during the gas crisis. Bike is protected with Gyeon Cancoat and a topper of elixir. All the running gear is coated with Gyeon wet coat.

2k clearcoat for Wheels has nothing to do with UV, it’s just a protection against road debris and hits…

I don’t know anything that would protect them against UV if you’re in a high UV environment like here in Florida or Arizona… I would just forget about protecting them and replace them every three years… Or a car cover when being stored out in the UV like when you’re at work…

Use 2k clearcoat—-tough stuff….

car pro ech20….great stuff but dont overthink it, they all work well

brake cleaned up

I have a G2 kit here From when I did my vette,and I may use it, I just didn’t wanna do all the hassle with paint, because it’s a very minor, minor problem. However I did get the under coating product from chemical guys today and tried it on a piece of steel that I have in my workshop, extremely...

I really don’t wanna pull the caliper either, I’m totally capable of doing as I have before, but That would also involve bleeding the system…I was hoping for something I could to spray on that would make it a little bit darker, I’ll try the undercarriage spray tomorrow. I’ll post a pic if it...

This is an painted aluminum caliper… I think I’ll be fine with the under spray mentioned above… Worse comes to worse, I’ll tape it off and shoot it with a coat of satin Rust oleum black. I just didn’t wanna go through the hassle of taping…

Chem guys ordered-thx

so the disc brake on my scooter has about 6000 miles on it, and the picture above is the brake after it’s been completely degreased and brush cleaned with Sonax wheel cleaner, which has left it looking very chalky and washed out. I do not want to paint it, is there anything that I can use that...

Poor boy’s natural look… I asked this exact same question about four years ago here and the overall winner was the poor boys product. I’ve been using it ever since, it does everything: leather plastic vinyl etc. etc. it makes it look new, not shiny, not glossy, not oily, just new…..