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Great job. Did you tell the owner to trim their claws? That door handle pocket was destroyed.

I can’t comment because out of those products I’ve only used the WDGPS. But I can say I would never layer so many products like that, I think that’s asking for trouble, especially mixing so many brands.

I don’t reuse the towels. I have about a dozen PFMs and just use them until I have several used, then wash them together. They might look clean but I don’t want to risk them getting contaminated while drying and then scratch the paint.

I don’t think it can cause it but I’m pretty sure the instructions on Iron-X say to not spray on the rotor directly. A little overspray is fine but don’t put it on the rotor on purpose.

I bought 2 of the CarPro ones. It's fine, but it's big and it has some padding to it, making it harder to reach corners of windshield. They also end up rubbing surfaces around the glass due to size. I actually have one I use sporadically and one is still in the package.

I have those PFM for glass towels. They work fine. Because I wash them with my other towels, sometimes I get a little bit of lint from them, but it's minor and could be avoided by washing them separately. They are nicely sized for working on glass and tight spaces.

Polish the entire panel and apply coating again.

Yeah, SiC is pretty slick but I don't think it's the easiest coating to apply with long flashing time. If slickness is the goal, I think Mohs EVO is easier to apply and yields similar results. If you want that candy look with darkening effect Pure EVO or UK3.0 is probably the way to go.

Interesting, never seen that. Always super easy to order from AG for me.

Agreed, just make them white. Maybe they do it for easy to identify if you switch bottles or if you have product on a pad and you lost track if that's compound or polish but if that's the only reason, it's not enough. White would be fine.

It adds a small amount of orange peel but because it hides small defects, it may actually make the paint look better. Some places don’t even paint correct first because PPF is good at hiding defects. Panels that get their edges wrapped are pretty hard to notice the fill. The ones that aren’t...

I spray the car with 1oz of N-914 diluted in 1.5L of water. Then use 2 buckets with grit guard, one with 2oz of N-914 in it, the other is just water. I use the Big Red Sponge. Before going in for more rinseless solution, I dunk it in the water bucket and agitate against the grit...

Never do partial panels. The line will look atrocious after a while. The hood is easy to wrap as a whole and edges can all be folded back so it looks perfect.

On the right car, absolutely. It’s very expensive and doesn’t last forever so spending thousands on a car that is worth $20K, for example, makes no sense in my opinion. But on an exotic it’s almost a must. I don’t understand people that buy a $45K Tesla and spend $7K to wrap the whole car...

Gotta wrap as many edges as possible to avoid the issues I mentioned. Clean location is a must, just like when installing tint. If the installer will score the film on the car he has to know what he’s doing or he’ll scratch your paint and then the protection you’re looking for will actually...

With time edges get dirt under them and become visible, especially noticeable on white cars. The edges can also lift and the fix is trim it back or replace the whole panel. And many years down the road, replacing the PPF will cost more as removing the old one can be a PITA if one waits too...

I think clear coat or PPF over them is the only way to keep them looking clear for a long time.

Gyeon Primer followed by Cancoat Evo

Hopefully you’ll get more miles per gallon than we get on my wife’s Grand Cherokee. We’ve been getting 12mpg on that and at $5/gallon it’s an expensive ride.

July 26 will be my 5th anniversary as well. I don’t miss it. All I drink now is water. Milk with cereal but otherwise just water.