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I think this thread is worthy of a bump! My storage has a long way to go but it's probably going to be a long winter ... Anyways, the cabinet has all of the products that get used routinely. Full and larger bottles are stored elsewhere in Rubbermaid containers. It is organized with the LSPs up...

I believe that it says on the bottle of UPP to wait at least 30 minutes for the sealant to cure before remove. It's always a good idea to follow directions on the bottle, they are there for a reason. I have left UPP on for 30, 45, 60 minutes and haven't had any issues removing, granted you do a...

AG and Edge pads (Dedication to Detail) always have good customer service. You should contact either one of them very soon, Edge may want to see the pad for inspection of the failure ...

For winter protection after polishing (if you decide to do any) I would use the PwS and then top with either the EX-P or the EX. I don't know how severe your winters are but if you could throw on an additional coat of sealant a few weeks into winter you'd be fine. If you can wash frequently...

Neither are going to fill swirls, they are pure waxes with no correctional or hiding abilities. Granted their characteristics, P21S is clear looking vs. Natty's Blue goes for a deep wet look, the Natty's may make the swirls less visible in certain lights even though it won't fill them in...

Simple solution :buffing:. Or getting a drain put in the garage, washing in the grass, etc. FWIW, this is completely different from water bans in the south, I think Washington gets the most rain in the country :cheers:.

PwS is a great product for cleaning and some sealant protection. However, by itself, it won't last more than a month or two, so it is a good idea to top it with another sealant or wax, your preference. EX-P is a fine choice and it'll apply and remove effortlessly if you apply it thin enough...

Either way will work. Some people prefer to stick to one product and do the whole vehicle at one time whereas others focus at one panel at a time, getting it perfect (2.5 and then 1, etc) and then moving on to the next panel. I would think that in the end they'd take about the same amount of time.

You can top it with any wax or sealant you'd prefer. The EX has some carnauba in it so it complements the gloss and glow that the Black Hole produces. EX-P is a 'clear' looking sealant, great for vehicles with a lot of metal flake. Either one will look fine but they might produce slightly...

Any light polish and polishing pad should remove them. In most cases the holograms aren't deep into the clear so they are easily removed, try your least aggressive pad + product combo and work up from there...

You may have used too much product, you shouldn't really be able to tell where you applied the product on the paint. What kind of applicator were you using? I haven't had any issues with a MF applicator, so maybe that might help.

I'm not sure if the half moon swirls the OP sees are actually holograms but I agree with you Jimmie, here is a picture of your typical holograms from using a high speed buffer (from OCDetails):

First of all, I don't think you are seeing holograms, a PC can not create holograms on paint. What it could be is excessive micromarring from using an aggressive polish or pad (or both), not breaking the polish down properly (not working the polish in long enough, it takes a lot of time with a...

There are several things that cause holograms, all stemming from using a rotary polisher incorrectly. From dry buffing, not working a product long enough, using an aggressive pad, too high of RPMs, etc. They are swirl marks / micromarring instilled by a rotary buffer.

Either one will work. If you apply by a machine use a finishing pad and only spread the product, there is no need to work it into the paint. Even doing it by hand is very simple, it is a fluffy product that spreads nicely and removes effortlessly.

You just happened to find this on Ebay? I thought reserve prices were unknown to bidders? Also, the Ebay member has a black Civic as well, ironic!

The foam gun will begin to loosen up the dirt and grit before a traditional wash. It'll also provide lubrication so you don't rub your washing media directly onto the paint and dirt, which could cause marring. It's another preventative thing that you may not notice a difference right now, but in...

How much product were you using? With SSR2.5, a thin bead of product near the edge of the pad is about the proper amount, any less will cause the product to dry up and possibly dust (essentially dried out product). Instead of using a QD or water, simply use more SSR2.5. The SSRs don't fare all...

You really should wait 24 hours to let any sealant cure before topping with a wax. There may be a few exceptions but it would be beneficial to let the sealant cure and bond before a wax.

I have used the original WG DGPS quite a bit and I also have the newest version, also with Polycharger, which I have not used yet. I think the WG gives off more of a carnauba look than the UPP, but the UPP has much better slickness (a sealant attribute, IMO). UPP also looks better on lighter...