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Shall I let you into a secret? When a product in this class does not have the strong characteristic odour, one of two things is true: 1) you have spent too long sniffing chemicals and your nose isn't working right 2) The product has less active ingredient than the obviously smelly products...

A tip is to apply whatever wash solution and see what happens. If it beads up or instantly runs off, it is far from ideal. We encounter this all the time where we have low energy finishes and associated products which simply are incapable of wetting them properly. The reality is that most...

You should NOT use hydrophobic products on interior glass. I hear of lots of people doing it but the simple fact is that hydrophobic means water droplet formation. Water droplet formation means 'fog'. A hydrophobic product is the OPPOSITE of anti-fog. It is not even fog neutral - it actually...

I would favour the laundry powder as these will be used to targeting this kind of stain. Proteins mean that you need proteases and I would not be confident that an auto specific product would have a lot of this (I would have expected more in the way of lipases/amylases). As above, don't do it...

As above, ziplock bag or similar. Even just a bag and a clip to seal it. Trix is particularly difficult because you can get the smelly component lingering in the oil phase which, because it tends to separate, is especially hard to actually rinse off.

Basically, if you have a decent lsp, no such solution exists. Many claim to have solution but I have tried many and conclude that ignorance, on the part of the marketeer and user is the explanation. I have given solid chemical justification and many have replicated my results and see the logic...

Apologies, this was typed up quickly! Part of the issue is that oils and waxes are actually scientifically definable. 'Sealant' simply has no definite definition. If you google the term, you are more likely to find an elastomer type product which goes in your shower tray than what is meant in...

Absolutely - most synthetic waxes are just waxes, they are chemically very similar to carnauba/montan/etc. but just happen to have been made synthetically. They won't crosslink, they won't have any notable bond. The benefit with them is that their precise character can be tinkered - you can...

I think what he is alluding to is that the chemistry is not dissimilar, which would be correct. There is rarely much of a bond, it is little more than what you would get with an oil - it lasts mostly because it is not water miscible and is non-volatile. As a related point, silicones are not...

Looking at the pictures here, I am once more inclined to question many 'detailers' in the UK. To be honest, the pictures here look pretty clean compared to some that people in the UK think are safe to wash without anything more than rinseless. I am constantly amazed how many people seem to think...

The majority of dyes on the aftermarket are temporary solutions. They will work well but they are fundamentally behaving a bit like wax, not a sealant or coating. The dye sort of loosely attaches to the fibres and the solvent evaporates away. The dye remains and is fairly water proof but it is...

Dodo did a demonstration and it was visible, on a silver panel. The blue wax definitely gave a blue tint (etc). That said, how long does that last and is it uv stable? I don't believe they went that far! Colour is a difficult one but gloss or colour enhancement/depth are beyond contention. I...

The glossy appearance is down to the reflection of visible light and should not be assumed to extend to other wavelengths.

The relevant safety data shows that dub isn't as strong. So you can use it in a similar way but you may well have to use more to achieve the same results.

You shouldn't ever polish something like this. The reality is that asphalt/tar is frequently full of dirt and grit. If you aren't lucky, you could machine some grit into your paint. Any case of heavy tar should be dealt with using a solvent based cleaner. Anything water based is a waste of time.

The 2-pot concept is the old one, one pot is new! Single component systems are inherently limited, which is why you don't find them as the core of industrial coatings. Multiple components offer much more flexibility with performance but they are less user friendly. My opinion is that it is a...

Interesting observations. From the MSDS which you can find online (which, admittedly, is actually for another product but they haven't properly removed the underlying 'brown royal' name), there is little special about it. It is strongly alkaline, but not caustic and the main surfactant noted is...

It will depend on the coating. Several things to consider: 1. What are the carrier solvents? Are they safe on the plastic, both immediately and long term (like stress cracking of polycarbonates)? 2. These coatings often claim serious hardness. Plastics are often quite flexible. These two...

I'd hazard to suggest that this is marketing jargon, in most cases. If a coating is worth talking about, heat is good! Most of the technologies I know will cure better and faster at elevated temperatures. If baking at 200 Celsius was an option, we'd have miles better coatings available! If our...

The ABF is an attempt to be safer than HF but it won't clean as well and still is pretty toxic stuff. The reason for the limited use is that they are too dangerous. If we went to our insurers and told them that we intended to sell something, to the public, which was highly toxic and could...