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As others have said, the question cannot be answered. There probably are 'best' products but they are best at a certain thing. For instance, if you want the most effective product, no questions asked, you need a hydrofluoric acid based product (a bit like wheel brightener, but stronger)...

If you try a product which causes beading, it will make it worse. So first step is to avoid the normal glass sealants/rain-x etc. There are products out there which might help but they are almost all transient - basically they are more for indoor use which means that they will wash away with...

Let's say that I wouldn't be using it. SLES is mainly a foamer, not especially good as a detergent. Slightly odd choice, IMO

Yup, we have one which is similar but it is wishful thinking to say that it will strip an lsp. Our spray waxes (which admittedly are polymer fortified) can stand up to wiping with neat IPA without a problem. A dilution and a bit of surfactant don't change this (in our experience). FWIW...

That being the case, I'd pigeon hole it with car pro eraser. I have yet to encounter anything which will, in a water based formulation, reliably remove a decent sealant. Since this product has none of the really potent options (they would be hazardous and need listed), the additional ingredients...

You could, but the devil would be in the detail of actually identifying a residue. It would be easily enough done but I don't see why when accepted chemistry gives you the answer ahead of time. The Quat content is there to be substantive. It is like a magnet sticking to metal. Have you seen what...

I can only comment on what is in the product. It has a quat compound and quats are surface substantive. At higher dilutions, the level may be such that there is practically nothing left, but it remains that you have something which is inherently attracted to the surface. Stripping - yeah...

Whilst not universally true, you are not far from the truth. Suspensions are generally not going to be much good as the particle size is too big (i.e. chunks in the product). You can have emulsions and the emulsifying agents are nothing to be concerned about (a strong emulsifier does not imply...

I cannot find an MSDS on the product. Normally I give a fair bit of credit to optimum and I do think that they make good protecting products. The general type cleaners don't quite fill me with the same confidence. I would be really shocked at Paint prep doing a good job on a decent sealant.

Sorry guys but don't believe the marketing. The whole basis behind waterless/low water solutions is that they all leave something behind. It might not be wax and might not make your beading better, but it will leave something. Take D114, for example. At a very quick glance, it claims to enhance...

Most wash and wax products have zero wax. The norm is to use a surface modifying surfactant which beads temporarily but basically gives nothing longer term. The likes of hydrofoam is really not a wash and wax, more like a durable rinse product. As a but if a rant, carpro get a lot of credit...

This area is a bit of a mess of terminology. There is no strictly right answer. Some pre-wax cleaners use chemical and/or abrasives to clean I would say that all products of this class use chemical methods to clean. They will be oily emulsions. Once you add any abrasive, we would class it as...

IMO, a prewax cleanser (which means a Polish without abrasive) is a product to use if the old lsp needs removed but no polishing is required. I should add that I feel it far from guaranteed to strip an lsp unless you are applying with a da machine (or similar). If we are talking about creamy...

There is also that matter that some traditional products get very close to coatings. We can get a year out of our hybrid wax. It can be applied to almost anything, no fancy prep, no cure, put it on with a da if you want. Easy to top up with exactly the same material (sorry, your coating toppers...

You should not really have any problems with something like a shampoo, if stored correctly. UV should not be a big deal, most surfactants will take a whole lot of UV before there is a problem. Colours fading... That is definitely plausible and I'd expect colour changes before you had other...

I would suggest that the reason that acetic is not used in the commercial products is that it stinks. If you think about it, there would be some tangible benefits - for starters it is a liquid so will evaporate away. If you did let it dry, it would evaporate and leave nothing behind (unlike most...

As others have said, one will tend to have removed the lsp during polishing and the IPA removes the oils (such as the kero) that will be left from the polish. I don't believe that IPA is really the ideal product as it does not have any lubrication on its own, thus has potential for marring your...

It would be an odd shampoo to contain kero. Polishes and waxes - whole different kettle of fish! I suspect that it will be the case that more of these products do contain it than do not. Tar removers (proper ones, not the water based ones!) will almost always have kero present - in the UK the...

Sodium thickeners - actually it is typically nothing more than common table salt. The use of this will depend on the activity level of the product. If it is a budget product, it may well be 'runny' with just the base surfactants. The consumer tends to link viscosity and quality so it is a...

Just chiming in as I believe I may have had a notable roll in convincing people that Dawn (and similar) are not the magic stripping solutions that they were once touted as. First off, you could call it a degreaser. Of course the same arguments can be applied to most car wash products, glass...