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I'm in the market for a new 3" orbital and rotary buffer. These are also essential for head light restoration.

honestly if it's dried on compound I'll just soak it in APC, let it sit and then hit it with my pressure washer. Then I'll just run it through the sink to get any left over APC out. Don't get it close enough to rip the pad apart, but this is the best way I've come up with. I deal with a shop...

THIS! I have a few. I really only use 2. One big one for the majority of jobs, and one that I filed down to almost a point at one end, and a skinny flat side about 3/4" wide to get into tight areas. For god sakes DO NOT EVEN TOUCH any of the plastics with this, as you will totally rip it apart...

I may give that a skim.

I love detailing cars. Not in the production sense that I do it most of the time now though. I like to correct paint and really show someone an impressive before and after.

I scored a 3M vacuum that is no bigger than a tackle box for $30 at the local flea market last weekend. It's for servicing computers and printers, and originally retailed for $300 new. It's a great little back up vac, and powerful as hell @ 1hp.

Welcome from right out side of raleigh :) I may like to hear what you have to say about saving single stage, and I'm into the oldies myself.

From beater to show quality, truly stunning work. Gotta love it when a body shop can't produce on a $100,000 black car. :doh:

Great Idea. Cadillac I'd put at the hardest, dodge / mopar's in general are pretty soft. If fresh paint is a 1/10 on the hardness scale I'd consider dodge to be a 3, and cadillac is a 9. Everything else seems to be inbetween. Nissan I'd consider a 6/10Honda I'd consider a 3 as well, subaru...

Hey guys, I know I don't spend much time on the forums, but I've been a member for a while now. I currently work for a high volume car dealership as a front line manager. I am basically the go to guy that has experience with a rotary buffer, and is skilled in chemicals and interior detailing. I...

I remember the first time I buffed single staged paint; it was a red chevy truck. When the whole pad turned red after a few passes I nearly fainted, I thought I had burned the clear coat completely off and hit the base coat after 2 light passes.

I actually work for a cad. dealership, and I deal with black a lot. What I can tell you is use a light cut pad and a fine cut compound and work the area for a longer time because it will be a huge pain in the ass to bring the shine back up if you don't. There is plenty of clear coat to work...

I've had good results on an older honda ridgeline with white paint. I know white isn't the best example but Honda often puts a small amount of metal flake in there paints so when it oxidized it was in really bad shape. The paint had that chalky feeling that single stages get without protection...

I'm also playing around with pricing for my new mobile venture. At the dealership I currently work for they get $280 for a full detail done by yours truly in about 1.5-2 hours depending on the vehicle. Most people opt for the $190 detail package, and guess what... I USE THE SAME EXACT PROCESS...

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but certainly not new to detailing. I'm currently a production detailer at a large automall, but I started out in body shops and certainly know my way around paint. Currently I'm looking to start a side business with my truck, and I was able to score a plastic 55...