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IMO the "on coatings" use-case is explicitly pointed out on the labels, because as a general rule of thumb, you're not supposed to top a coating with any other stuff, as almost everything will just diminish the positive properties of the coating itself. So, this is more about refuting a false...

Honestly, I can't recall having read that anywhere prior to this. Not on forums, and not on manufacturer labels. Then again, maybe we're visiting different forums or using different products.

For one, I've never seen a freshly coated car getting any visible damage from getting exposed to moisture in the first 24 hours after application, even not at the level of morning dew covering the car with tiny spots. Actually, afaik moisture - obviously in limited quantities - is one of the...

There's always a lot of dust in the air (unless you're working in "cleanroom" environment). The only difference is that you see it less inside than outside, because of the lightning and the color of the background. Unless you're right next to a field or an industrial area, it shouldn't be a...

1000 dollars. :)

That's virtually impossible, unless you're using it on a rotary buffer and you keep buffing at the exact same place for minutes, without moving the buffer even a tiny bit. Glass is extremely hard, and even with ceriglass and ample pressure it takes a lot of time until you can actually abrade a...

Most compounds, cleaning agents, detergents, etc. will not work as intended (or at all) close to freezing temperatures. They will not get activated, will not dry or cure in ample time, or will not be able to bind properly. Similarly plastic trim will get more brittle and your hand will also get...

Distinctiveness Of Image. It is used to measure the "hazing" of the surface and the "blurring" of the reflected image. Subtle hazing won't necessarily effect the overall amount of gloss (as measured by a regular gloss meter), but will definitely appear less "glossy" (as in layman's terms) to the...

There's no "dimension" and "depth" to gloss. Gloss is by definition the specular reflectivity of a surface, and only that. That said, the human perception of reflection and "gloss" as in layman's terms, and overall appearance of a surface is incredibly complex, and a gloss meter doesn't even...

That's not required, but might be an effective and cheap way to remove it on a larger surface which is easily accessible and can be or even possibly should be flattened anyway. However, that's absolutely not the case with rock chips, which are tiny spots and are craters in the surrounding paint...

You need to sand _after_ you've applied the touch up paint to the cleaned surface. If you do not sand the touched up area flat, then the touch up paint blob will drop a shadow, and the defect will be even more obvious that in was before you touched it up. If you do sand the area, use at least...

That "color" will never "pop" like other colors or black do in full sunlight or when lit directly by strong lights, because the silver base color reflects too much light anyway, and because it "bleaches out" the reflections - so there will be less difference between the reflection and gloss...

"Scratch proof" = you're unable to scratch it "Scratch resistant" = it's harder to scratch / less prone to getting scratched Coatings are usually advertised as "scratch resistant", not "scratch proof". However, most people think of "scratch proof" even then when they're reading/hearing "scratch...

A bit long and too much talk, but the results are impressive: Obviously if the parts are not just aluminum, but some alloy or something that just looks like aluminum, they could react very differently.

I'd try to use a tooth brush to remove most of the dirt, then follow up first with an APC, then with an acidic cleaner to remove the remaining corrosion, and then finish off with a metal polish. If the tooth brush is not hard enough, you can try copper or brass brushes, but those can also...

In my experience, it all depends on how often the car is cleaned. If it's been neglected for years, you can pick up a lot of contaminants on all over the car. If it's been washed regularly and protected for the winter, then the portions possibly affected by road salt won't be noticeably worse...

There's definitely no point in "arguing" with someone if your only "argument" against what he said is that "he has a PhD in chemistry and a 10,000 sq. ft. lab". If you can't attack the argument presented, only the person behind it, then you actually have no argument. Period.

Because you're living in a moderate (or even relatively cold) climate, you can use essentially any of the three of the mentioned product types. If you'd live in a warmer climate with more sun, then waxes (well, at least the regular ones, with natural carnauba in them) wouldn't be a really good...

You're the first to use that term in this topic to describe what's (not) happening with sealants or waxes. It's not that the sealant and wax take anything with them - but that most of the contaminants that sit on them just degrade, wear off and get carried away by solvents (like water) the same...

No it does not. A "baggie test" is 1. not objective, 2. has no defined granularity, 3. is not even repeatable (not even by the same person on the same part of the same car, let alone on different parts, different car, by different persons), 4. does not take into account the base "roughness"...