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I'd also vote for tree sap etching. I had something similar on several of my cars. Unfortunately, I was never able to remove them completely. Maybe probably by wet sanding the surface or compounding off a significant amount of the clear coat, which is just not worth it, as they were - at least...

A sandpaper glued to a pencil eraser (on the back end of a pencil) is a very dangerous tool. For one you'll have a hell of a time holding it perpendicular, which will result in uneven sanding. The other is: you'll work only a small area with it, which will create a visible "hole" (low spot) in...

Most likely the ceramic coating hasn't fully cured, yet. I'm not familiar with the product you've used, but with the ones I know, 7 days is the minimum time required to achieve full hardness (without the use of IR heating lamps). This means that with low ambient temperatures and high humidity...

GTechniq G1 15 ml costs $18, is enough for multiple applications (when used for the windshield only), and lasts more than a year. If you are even more price-conscious, you can substitute G1 with G5, which is even more economic, but will still last multiple months (but you will want to reapply...

A DA and some polishes/waxes are not enough to correct this level of defect. Depending on what the exact situation is, you need to take slightly different approaches - but all of them require you to get more tools and do more than just polishing. A) If the touch up color doesn't match, you...

Did you try adding a tiny little bit (but really just a tiny little bit) spritz of water to the pad (also possibly not straight away, but after before the last or last two passes)? It helps both with lubrication and heat dissipation. It might however make your pad sling polish around more than...

It might have frozen during transport, prior to arriving at your house/shop. More than likely, if it's around a year old.

You don't want to abrade anything, unless absolutely unavoidable and necessary. Especially that you can't tell your abrasives to only work on the transferred paint material, and not on your car's "native" clear coat/paint. You should rather try removing as much as possible with some kind of...

Maybe it was clear coat damage from driving on a small section of gravel road, and the small rocks hitting the paint, for years and years, making thousands of tiny little scuffs into the clear coat in a very specific area. Obviously like any scratch or chip, those tiny scuffs or chips all...

Supposedly a mf cloth drenched in adhesive remover (or other solvent of your preference) and laid a few minutes over/on the residue should loosen it enough, so that you can mostly wipe the latter off, with minimal force. As for avoiding leaving a residue back on the paint, it is recommended...

As already said, they handle temperatures extremely well. Most of them can be used safely even in the engine bay, where you can have temperatures well over 100 °C / 200 °F. You won't have ever anything just close to that on the outer surface of your car, unless you shove it into an infrared heat...

Practically all ceramic coatings are formulated to endure very high temperatures, like multiple hundred degrees - way above what your paint will be exposed to, even in the warmest climates and on the warmest days, if it's just standing in the Sun. So, the only temperature you should worry about...

If it's a painted surface, it might be clear coat failure. But that's very unlikely to happen to the bottom of the car first, unless probably it's been driven through a pool of acid or something. Or it could be something as simple as dried mud. Anyway, you should probably ask him to send a few...

They do. Especially the $2000+ ones, that can also measure paint thickness over plastic, fiberglass and carbon surfaces - which the cheaper gauges can't. Even though the latter two materials are only used on high-end vehicles, painted plastic elements (like bumpers) are very common nowadays even...

The road surface is full of contaminants, both from the road material itself, and also because of cars leaving back residues of fuel, oil, metals, and also rubber from the tires. When it's raining, all this dirt gets partially solved/floating in the rain water, and then it gets splashed onto...

That's the "watered down" US version. The original European and the UK versions come with the base coat in a drop/pour bottle - obviously for a reason. It also has a completely different consistency and thickness than the spray bottle coatings in question here, and uses a multi-coat approach...

See above! Some companies are sometimes claiming ridiculous things, and marketing departments are trying to twist the terms all the time, in order to sell more products. Unfortunately, most people just fall too easy for them. Still, facts stay facts, and laws of physics don't change either...

It unavoidably has to, because to achieve a certain layer thickness when applying, the product has to have a specific density/thickness. If it's too thin, it will spread out too much, and you will need to apply dozens of layers (if that's possible at all, because the solvent might just dissolve...

IMHO anything that comes in a spray bottle is not a true ceramic coating, but more of a sealant, regardless of containing some amount of SiO2 or similar substance. Don't get me wrong - they work fine, but you can't expect neither durability nor the physical protection from them, that a true...

Unless your garage is fully heated, and because you're living in a fairly cold climate, I'd recommend you to wait with the application of any ceramic coating until at least April or early May. Then it will be warm enough to apply CQUK without the risk of running into problems. However, if you...