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"Contaminants" is a very wide term, which includes anything from simple dust particles through shards of metal and blobs of tar that might land on the cars surface or hit it with significant momentum, to material transfers from other objects that the car has hit. How and whether they bind to the...

Well, this one is a tough one, because for one it's hard to measure and compare most stuff related to this objectively. The problem is, that on ceramic coated surface the apparent level of contamination might be higher than on a regular one, even then if it is actually lower - and that's because...

So is for everyone else, because only the person who painted the car (or programmed the machine painting the car) could possibly know how much product he has applied, and what the solvent/solid particle ratio of the paint is, etc. Even then slight variances in thickness could and will arise not...

Well, everyone has their system and opinion, and of course also everything heavily depends on the actual circumstances, but generally what I'd do is: 1. Measure the thickness of the paint at the door sills around the car. 2. Take the highest value I measured there. If it's below 60 microns...

The only two drawbacks of leaf blowers are: 1. that they're a rather large and relatively heavy instrument, and because of that you're always risking hitting the paint with them, and inflicting some physical damage to it, and 2. that there's also the chance that a leaf blower will suck in...

Whether tire cleaner will "hurt" the ceramic coating depends how much aggressive the cleaner is. Meaning: if it's heavily acidic or heavily alkaline, then it will of course hurt the coating. On the other side, the whole purpose of having a ceramic coating is to have a sacrificial layer to...

Yes we are. You're actually doing nothing else than insisting on and arguing for that it could have not been possibly repainted - without having any factual verification for that. You're obviously confusing the lack of knowledge of something having happened with that thing not having happened -...

To his knowledge. Which is limited, because he is obviously not the first owner of the car. But even if the car would be brand new, dealerships sometimes "silently" have cars corrected, for ex. when they get damaged in transport. And sometimes cars overgo correction already in the factory. Just...

To me it looks like the typical aforementioned solvent pop of a repainted surface. Did you measure paint thickness? If yes, what was it? Similar defects can also sometimes arise when one is heavily overheating the paint while polishing it, without burning through it.

If you can see the compound "crawl" up on the sides up a foam pad and discoloring it, then you've put already too much of it onto the latter. Same thing if you see the compound solidifying and peeling off on the contact surface of the pad. But to see any of these signs, you must have not only...

If you only have a choice between a DA and a grinder, then yeah, definitely pick the DA. However, I assume your DA is free spinning, which is not ideal for windshield polishing. That's because the windshield is relatively heavily curved (especially at the sides, close to the pillar, where you'll...

The stuff you have *on* the glass might come off even with a regular polishing (cutting) compound (obviously depending on what material it is of). You'd only need Ceriglass and a rayon pad if you were to polish the glass itself, or if the substance on the glass would be so hard that only a...

It slings the stuff all over the place? The machine/pad doesn't run smooth, but uneven, tries to get out of your hand, and you have to wrangle it.

CarPro Perl diluted 1:3 worked really well for me mostly on everything I've tried it on in the engine bay (even though it's not a coating but a dressing). Makes black plastics really deep black, red and yellow plastics more intensively red and yellow. Works great on rubber hoses too, makes them...

Yeah, that's your understanding of the matter. Which, considering that you don't even know a "theory" is essentially the highest level any scientific construct can reach, and it means that said construct has been confirmed to be valid and factual, doesn't mean much, does it? I'm trying to...

Looks like some resin type overspray to me. Anyway, if it's hard enough, you should be able to get it off the glass using some kind of polish. You might have to work for a while on it though, because to me it seems like it's at least a few dozen microns thick. Then again, hard to tell just by...

I don't think can be polished off/away. I think what we see here is the result of lazy prep or blending. The body shop most likely didn't repaint the whole panel, only parts of it, and those defects are the blending marks, where the old and new paint "merge". Or if they did repaint the full...

You mean they don't make sense to you, don't you? I'm more than ready to believe that. That they don't actually make sense - well, that's another story. Still if there are any factual inaccuratenesses and/or logical contradictions in what I said, it should be very easy to point out them one by...

When someone does something that does not make sense and/or wastes products and/or gives him poorer results than what's possible, he's not lazy. He's just doing something that doesn't make sense, and used more products than necessary, and that could have been done better and smarter. Is...

Maybe you should ask those questions someone who actually said anything along the lines you're asking confirmation for. Because I for one definitely didn't. Even if this is true, don't you think there was a reason why the manufacturer changed the labeling and removed any mentions of a "primer"...