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If the MF discs with 105 don't work, your next step up would be surbuf pads or wool. If that fails then I'd say going 1500 or 2000 grit wet sanding should remove the etching. However, I've never came across water spots that couldn't be removed via regular compounding.

Did you notice any micro marring on the glass at all afterwards?

I like the DIY pad washers, kind of a fun side-project to try out. So far I've been fine with using a diluted megs super degreaser in a bucket of very warm water and using a nylon brush to scrub the surface. As long as I clean them the same day, they come clean very easily. With the new MF pads...

Interesting since matt@autogeek reviewed earlier that this product doesn't sling. I think most of the slinging and gloss properties of wheel dressings are due to the amount of product used/applicator used. I recently switched from tire foam applicators to using a 2" trim paint brush for my tire...

OC2.0 it!

Any update on this? I'm looking for a good trim sealant and was bordering on the UTTG because of other reviews. I'm tired of dressing the plastic portion of my bumper covers and wiper cowl on my '07 MDX.

D151 for good correction and Poli Seal for good gloss. However, you're pretty hard-pressed for any AIO to have 'excellent' durability.

Some may claim newer LSP's will require newer surface prepping products. But for me, I'll stick with Dawn or CGCW to strip LSP's and polishing oils until I meet something they don't work on. My Dawn seems to be my most widely used product so the $2/bottle price tag is a big factor.

I can't really tell from the pictures, but another possibility it was excessive product used from polishing or an old LSP. Give it a good IPA or dawn wash and see if the holograms are still there first.

I actually just filled in a few dozen rock chips on the front bumper cover and leading edge of my hood just fine. Granted my issues were chips and not a leveled down surface, you may get similar results. I using the pen part of the touch up paint to fill in the chip, wait 12 hours and then chip...

I usually compound, IPA the harsher corrections, polish, then I either do another ipa wipedown or give it a foam dawn bath to make sure all oils are stripped (I usually go to 205 for a finishing polish and it's crazy oily).

I use it at 50% dilution. If you're finding it's evaporating too fast before you wipe it off then dilute it more. But as stated before, it's to remove polishing oils in case they're filling in any defects before you apply your LSP.

You could try some touch up paint and then hitting it up with 2000grit and then compound. It's a bit risky but if you're going to get it repainted then it's worth a shot.

Probably business license

Wet sanding has saved multiple resprays and leveled out several touch up paint jobs to make it look OE again. There's no need to limit your spectrum when it comes to detailing :)

:iagree: I can't see any etching/marring in the pictures, unless Dodo has heavy concealers and they'll show up with time...

Low working time and high dust are the cons of 105/205, however they're the peanut butter and jelly in my polish arsenal. Use them with the new MF pads and you won't be dissapointed. The only product I dare to try and replace 105 with is Optimum Compound II, it has far less dusting and about the...

I put it in a dispenser just like BobbyG posted and don't have a problem. I actually like its thickness :shrug:

Optimum No Rinse (ONR) or Chemical Guys Citrus Wash

I've been a fan of Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner sprays. Its been highly rated for a while, but I see more and more people converting to Leatherique nowadays.