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Beautiful job. Just a shame that we have to see another example where someone gave plastidip a bad name by failing to properly prep and spray.

Wow thats an incredible turn around! I've done a few of those and they are so exhausting but really rewarding to see how much you know and how much the customers (or relatives) enjoy the results.

Ok cool I'll have to give some of that a try. Don't have a lot of that stuff but I'll try with similar products for now an see what I get.

Out of curiosity, how did you perfect the MB? I have some marring and straight line "swirls" on my C250's pillars and I can't seem to get them looking good again.

Yeah, my syn wax isn't doing that. I'm doing my grandmother's car tomorrow so I'll try it again and try and find out where I went wrong on my car.

Really? Mine isn't beading that well for some reason. Anyway you should know that mothers says that it is basically a synthetic cleaner wax which means that your collinite was probably removed.

I'm such a big fan of plasti dip but it does look terrible if not done properly. That's not meant to be aimed at anyone who's got bad results just saying that I have seen some of the negatives when I don't properly prep and mask the area. That being said I have some on my car and love how easy...

I'd be glad to.

That is so great to hear! I knew they were trying to wake him up slowly but I was starting to lose hope.

If nothing came up, then chances are it's not burned through. It maybe extreme hazing and some residue left over. Maybe a light pass of M205 with a finishing pad would clear it up. Never had that problem but just thinking of what may help.

Good idea on the recommendation of a coating. If the paint is that bad, chances are that the paint is really really thin so a coating like opti-coat should really help preserve the paint and your work.

I know mineral spirits will work but it's risky since the remaining residue is near the dipped rims. But I know it last a while as most of the parts on my car are dipped and have been for 1.5 years now. I recently pulled one off to redo it and it still pulled cleanly. So I know it will last...

I think most clays targeted towards glass are just slightly more aggressive then most fine clays. Personally, I just save the money and use my paint clay on windows, same thing if I'm using my nanoskin wash mitt. One thing you shouldn't do is cross contaminate clay between wheels and paint.

I use D120 glass cleaner on mine. But mine are metal with rubber "dot" grips. Glass cleaner will work on all plastic ones but I will sometimes use an APC or a WW/QD type product for weekly wipe downs.

It may have been a small chip that got "torn off" or lifted upwards by the nanoskin's textured surface. I've had this issue with both the nanoskin wash mitt and normal clay.

Great job on that accord. Love the reflections and depth in the last pic.

Mike is 100% right. But if you must know, the yellow is labeled as polishing and black is finishing. Burgundy is cutting but Meguiar's doesn't officially recommend it on a DA as it may leave hazing that may make some people start to panic. But that haze would be removable with further refinement.

They have 3" Velcro and taper into 4" I believe. I have some but I'm too lazy to check if it's 3.5" or 4" one the face.

You can use a 3 inch backing plate. That's what I do for my G110v2. But the GG3 is better for some applications since the housing and body of the machine are smaller than a normal DA. Really depends on how tight the area your working on is.

Holy smokes thats ridiculous for a 12 year old car, nice job!