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I have a 3401 and for me the MF pads work best. I also have several LC flat foam pads and some hexlogic pads that work in a pinch. I've never used Menz but I've heard great things about it. I did a full correction yesterday with an MF cutting pad and CG V34 - worked great. M101/M105 dust too...

I did a 370Z a couple weeks ago that I couldn't get the water spots out with compounding with a rotary and M101... def needed to be wetsanded. Customer didn't want to pay the extra $ so the water spots stayed. It looked significantly better but not perfect by any means.

I don't have a gauge either.... but taking a chance looked like the right decision. Looks amazing!

Not sure if that directed at me or not but for one I said the 3401 over the LHR15. Secondly my problem with Rupes is I am not satisfied with their quality. I got mine at the end of March- done maybe 30 details with it and it's DEAD. My Flex I've had for over a yr and a half, done MANY details...

If the car is really dirty then 2BM is preferable. Of late the majority of my customers wash or rinse their cars before they bring it to me so the GDWM is prefect for me.

Phenominal work!! How do you like the AMMO products? I want to get some but the sticker shock is getting to me.

I haven't done a traditional wash in years. So far rinseless has been efficient, safe and effective.

As JB suggested MF cutting pad and M105 is what I'd start with... you may be able to get away with an orange pad and M101. Normally I'd say start with an orange pad with M205, but that looks pretty sketchy.

Welcome aboard - I can tell you this site has helped me exponentially in both my detailing TTP's and with getting my business off the ground.

I use both the Flex 3401 and the LHR15 (which broke on me 2 weeks ago but I digress) the Flex does everything the Rupes can do, but it corrects a lot faster due to it's forced rotation. So if you're doing production detailing like I do the Flex will make you more $ because it saves you time...

That would indeed be awesome - maybe they will surprise us at SEMA this year \m/

THIS!! Flex all the way - not a fan of Rupes though.

If you do the GDWM properly and have good/clean wash media you won't have that issue. No matter what method you use IMHO you should start off on corrected paint- if you corrrect it and seal it and then use the 2BM or GDWM you'll have many months of great looking paint. I personally prefer...

Think I'll just stick with the GDWM - that is AFTER the paint is corrected and sealed. Less steps, less time, great results. But to each their own.

GD has used the HF DA on many " high-end" details. New Porsches, Aston Martin, Ferrari, Tesla etc - it's all about technique and product. If you're just starting out don't waste your time on crazy expensive tools.

I know a few people have used the Harbor Freight DA with great success as well if you're looking for inexpensive yet effective. if you get the Coupon you can pick it up for around $50.

As others have mentioned 3 weeks is a bit long to go between washing. The only thing I can think of is your wash media must have some sort of debris in it. I know he's not real popular on AG, but I switched to the Garry Dean Wash Method and it's worked wonderfully for me.

I've used the PC, LHR15 and the Flex 3401. IMHO the 3401 is superior to the other 2 in just about every way. I've done probably 60 details with the 3401 and it's my "go to" for sure. Best buffer for the $. You want better than the 3401 you gotta step up to a rotary.

Ditto

USMC from 1990 to present. About to retire!! Woot!!