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man, i really wish i could edit posts. So i did a headlight today and realized its NOT dust. The little specs are coming from my shop towel! wtf. Are any of you guys running into that same problem? They appear immediately after i prime with with mineral spirits across the entire light. so...

Also, any of you guys dilute 40/60 spar/min? would it help the drying process without adverse long term effects? Also, 2 week update on pre-mix. Seems to be holding up fine. Still going on crystal clear.

Thanks for the info. Any of you mobile guys figure out a way to get the coat on without little tiny dust specs? Is this just the nature of doing these jobs mobile?

How long is it taking your guys's headlights to try to the touch? Some of my clients are in a hurry and ready to go. I tell them to wait at least 30 min before driving and to put their hi beams on. Is this long enough?

i wet sand all grits. I hate the dust caused by sanding and cleaning off the paper. Wet sanding i dont have to clean the paper as often and there is no dust. if you wipe frequently and dont spray too much water, the bumper should stay pretty dry.

absolute garbage. now instead of being yellow and hazy. its yellow, hazy, and looks wet. Thanks for the info!

I wish i had an advanced auto parts around here! Luckily the detailing.com store front is 30min from here. i could use a few things. I ran into another problem. The shop towel is leaving tiny little specs of residue. They look like little specs of dust but their not. Are you guys drenching the...

im starting with 400. will give Meguiar's a whirl on my next job. thanks! I spent some more time on 800 and 1000 on a set today and they looked a ton better. Guess i wasn't spending enough time. again, thanks for the help guys! :props:

Thanks for the tip! Ya i only wet sand, i tried dry sanding and it clogged up my sandpaper way too fast. Are you guys all sanding in 1 direction? Or up and down for xgrit and then left to right on xgrit? Everytime i finish a car, it looks reallyy good from a foot or 2 away, but if you look...

Well it seems that when part of the clear coat has failed, that part comes off pretty easily and then the rest of the good coat is pretty tough. the 400 wasnt cutting it yesterday. Are you just hitting the affected area? or are you taking all the coating off? i know some guys are going down to...

nice. i have to try this method out. i read that it works well but i have no hands on experience. i saw hotrods pictures and they do look great. Are you also using 600? or 400-800 etc. you dont see any noticable differences between compounding and not compounding? thanks for the info! great...

Very true! So would you advise against using this for headlight restorations? How does SSR3 compare to something like that? Would a yellow pad be good or orange for such a abrasive compound? i did a restoration today and used orange 3m pad with turtle wax pro grade? rubbing compound. I wasn't...

They are in the shampoo section. Where all the travel sized stuff are. :xyxthumbs:

Depending on how bad the surface is, id go with 400 or 600 then 800-1000-1500 then compound prime and seal. I found that with a good compound 1500 is high enough. 3000 is not necessary unless you don't want to use compound, but then you'd have more sanding step.

No problem! I had a couple clients today. I used the 1 week old mixture and its still looking good. Like i said before its just a 3oz bottle i bought at Walmart for $0.97. Thanks to the bottle i just hit a specific spot on my shop towel and apply directly to the car instead of having left overs...

For that particular job i charged $25. I was running a promo because that was literally my first job and i had no before and after shots to promote myself. But my regular rate is now $40. I have a motorcycle and I can fit everything i need in my backpack so overhead is less which gives me that...

Ok cool. Glad to know im not taking too much longer then i need to be! How many passes are you taking with finer grits? When i feel i need to wipe off the headlight and clean my paper, ill do that process probably 3 times and ive had good success thus far. Its kind of hard to tell just by...

Did a G35 today. Wasn't horrible but you can definitely see the yellow. This pair took me about an hour and 15 minutes from taping to clean up. I used the original method of 400-800-1000-1500-2000-compound-prime-seal. This was my very first complete attempt and it turned out great! Hopefully...

This might help you out.... What are you all doing for lights that look good in one part but bad in another area? Are you still removing ALL of the factory coating? Have you tried pre mixing and storing it in an air tight bottle? I'm going to try this out see how it works. I hate mixing for...

Before you start sanding? or before you start sealing? Sanding, I just used water and a towel on mine to get a clearer idea of what spots need the most attention. i don't think it makes a real difference since you are going to sand it all off anyway. Clearing, From what i have read...