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Forget about spot removers and do a light polish, move up if necessary. Use a LSP of your choice.

I don't know the numbers, but I'm pretty sure if we have 6000 non members today, we had as much months ago when we didn't have this problem.

Dark side after a light wipe down. Easily last 3-4 weeks on Michelins.

Not talking about the sharpness..trying to cut a half way perfect circle with a razor knife is not an easy task.

Easy to trace, hard to cut.

I have the older version without the shut off and it's working great. More reinforcements at the ends would be nice, but still holding up over a year. Got tired of lugging around a heavy rubber hose in and out of my storage room.

Prayers sent.

Call Covercraft..very reputable IMO.

Good to see you back.:xyxthumbs:

Animal phycology..pretty cool:dblthumb2:

Before heavy compounding or wet sanding..you need a paint gauge. You may have or not have enough clear coat. If you don't have a paint gauge and can't obtain one.. live with the high spot. A seven year old car may not have enough clear left to sand.

Tell us more..is it super shiny?

Do you mean Dlux or the coating?

If the bumper is smooth painted plastic you can clay and polish. If its textured, just use WETS or Solution Finish.

I see where the confusion ls!

Look below "Chrome Trim" Chrome Trim I didn't dress it before winter, but it looks pretty clean/clear. Only a few months old. But I can see tiny spots, so wondering if I should do anything before C5 coating. Clay? Polish? (I have fine abrasive polish, and old non-abrasive polish). APC?

Clay and polish as needed for both front bumper and trim.

Sorry, thought I clicked on "like".

A finishing polish, move up as necessary including pad cut.

Least aggressive first.