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You stated you had ceramic, if you have ceramic you don't need a topper, clay, or decon. The ceramic is taking care of protecting your paint, you depending on the ceramic you had applied find the ceramic booster they suggest with that product to extent the life.

Just so you know your book is my go to and always has been.

I just did mine and have it down to less than 10 minutes.

most people don't realize that some factory black rims are powder coated. there are numerous articles on powder coating. I am having mine done right now. 525 all 4 includes powder and a clear coat. The choice of colors and finishes are unlimited.

have them powder coated

Just did a grand Prix, any paint chip on the plastic bumpers turns black or is black. I assume they use black primer or the color of the plastic is black.

I have the PC and even though they tell you a 3" will not work I do it all the time. The only issue is the head is larger than the 3" so if you are going into a tight space you cannot always get right up to the edge and you have to do it by hand.

Coming from the printing industry most people don't understand that water and the wetness of water is a result of surface tension. That's why a freshly waxed or applied sealant will bead better than paint that is not protected. In the print business you want the opposite effect of water...

Maybe take sheet wrap body shops use to cover vehicles and keep it covered up. If not exposed to wind and weather and truly just need to keep the dust off that should work without worry about scratching. You can pick one up for less then 20 bucks.

I have never used Turtle wax polishing compound but you said you used it with a compounding pad,(looking at Harbor Freight web site maybe you got the orange foam pad which is a aggressive cutting pad, i sure hope you didn't get a wool pad) Turtle Wax states this polish will remove oxidation...

Here's what I do if I cannot avoid washing in the sun. I wash all the places that are dirty beyond a rinseless wash then I use a rinseless and do just a half a panel at a time to get it dry before it spots.

If you decide to use a mitt make sure you break it in on glass. I always like using clay bar because I could not only feel the change in "pull tension" but you also see the contamination on the clay. With a mitt I couldn't feel the change in pull tension. (once you start using a clay bar you...

Car Pro Eraser is a must before ceramic. It will remove the wax and give you a clean foundation to work with. Good luck.

I treat my black rims just like the paint on the body. After all it's just paint. i do a full correction using the same process and use paint sealant. I take the tire off the car so I don't have to bend over or lay on the floor for long periods of time. Be careful if you are using a drill...

Why do you think track cars black matte the hood, reduce glare. It's a real thing and it sure was in my 03 seville. maybe it was the combination of window rake but the glare was so bad I would put a lay a towel on the dash to minimize it.

Not sure what color your dash is but making it shinny can cause glare issues that are really annoying.

P21S has several products. I used the P21S carnauba before I went ceramic and it held up well and gave a nice wet look and was easy to work with. I used it on blue paint.

I have used both the pen and the brush. I like the brush better even for the smallest rock chip. I find the pen too hard to put on evenly while a brush you can control how much you put on.

If you got sap on it and it didn't wipe off I would say you have reached the end of life on the ceramic. I have Adams and tree sap wipes right off. I think the last thing you want to do with sap is clay.

I think they hold up better without the heat. Seems they like to attract lint when in the dryer. I imagine you could tumble dry with no heat but I have room to hang mine so it's not a big deal to hang up ten or twelve.