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I've read that guide. I apply wax exactly as prescribed. I use claybar and all. Apply wax in circular motions with a 4" meguiars yellow foam pad. I see the grease trails when waxing, but when it's dry to a haze, I don't see full paint coverage. 2 weeks later, the water still beads. 1 month...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDvYReMjaeY See this video and skip to 6:00 mark. Is that too much collinite, or just right for the front door this guy is waxing? This guy pours wax twice just for the front door. I use much much less than that on a foam pad, and I'm wondering if I'm using too...

are these aftermarket top coats as durable as factory?

and where can I get some? Anyone an expert with car leather restoration?

yeah man. Clear plastic isn't like paint. It's hard but swirls easily !

how do you guys polish clear plastic, such as instrument gauges? It seems the more you polish, the more swirled it gets

Can you see this kind of micro marring in broad daylight, but WITHOUT the sun as a light source? I mean just ambient light of the sky. That youtube video quality was too compressed at 720p, so I couldn't see the micro marring

That's what got me wondering. Is the cutting due to the foam stiffness that is pushing the polish harder into the paint, or is the foam alone powerful enough to cut away clear coat. One of these days I'll have to go to the junkyard and pick up a scrap panel, though I was hoping someone here...

assuming paint is clean, if a compounding or stiffer foam pad has no polish on it, can it scratch paint when used with a DA polisher? of course I'm not going to use a pad bone dry, just wondering about the technical characteristics of foam pads.

cut it in half with leaf blower.

I read that plumbers putty works as well. and a fat 14oz jar of stainless putty is less than $2. That cheap, and you don't have to worry about throwing it away so fast.

Using collinite 845, two dabs from the bottle. I get lousy coverage using straight line wipe method. So it's back to circular wax on, straight line wax off.

orange pad is less compressible than the blue. The blue is labeled as a polishing pad. Harbor freight has an orange one that is for compounding. 6 in. Polishing Foam Pad

ahh. thanks. That's what I needed to know. I use no name brand pads. One is a harbor freight blue polishing pad. another is an orange light medium cutting pad from ebay. One of these days I'll have to do a half/half and compare the blue and orange pads.

ok, I'm still a novice. so now I'm wondering, will a medium cut pad with Ultimate Polish give the same results as a softer blue polishing pad with Ultimate Polish? I just used a cutting pad with UP and lighter pressure, and it looks shiny enough. I can't really tell the difference. Is there...

I'm willing to give it a few more chances since that 3M waffle has gotten such good user reviews. My waffle pad is a cutting pad, so it's a lot stiffer and hard to get full contact. On a softer pad, you can compress it easily and get 100% contact.

this is disappointing. short of a vinyl wrap, even wax doesn't protect clear coat. Interesting.

I eyeballed it by looking on the other side of the glass, while putting about 10 lbs pressure. But upon actual calculation of the dimpled areas and subtracting from the overall area, I overestimated, and it's about 60 percent +/- contact.

yeah. I have to dot the polish on the high spots of the pad. Because the waffles are cut too deep, you would have to press very hard to get the full pad to touch the paint, and that would bog down the DA motor. Not good. Ok, I pushed the waffle foam on a piece of glass, and it's 67 percent...

I got a pair of 6" waffle foam cutting pads for just $3 ! :xyxthumbs: Half the pad isn't touching the paint because of the waffle structure. In effect, it's working half as fast as a flat foam pad. So tell me what's so good about waffle foam?